Mercury 312?
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From: Augusta, Georgia
Mercury 312?
A friend has what he says is a 1957 Mercury 312 that I want to obtain for my '56 F-350, says it's painted a light green. Any of you have any info on this particular motor and whether it's basically the same as the T-Bird 312? I hope to look at it in the next few days.
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From: Southern Oregon
The block should be an ECZ-C, if it is 1957. However, that does not insure it is a 312. 57 292s were also ECZ-C. The heads should be ECZ-G for 1957, but once again they appeared on 292s as well as 272s in 1957.
Last edited by 46yblock; Mar 16, 2005 at 06:56 PM.
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From: Southern New Hampshire
If it is truly a 57 Merc it will be a 312, they didnt use the 292 past 55. But as often mentioned here just about any part can be swapped so you wont really know until you drop the pan and check for ECZ mains caps which were only used on the 312.
Good luck. BTW, if it happens to be a 368 Ill be glad to take it off your hands!
Good luck. BTW, if it happens to be a 368 Ill be glad to take it off your hands!
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From: arizona
I have an ECZ-C in my '56. This engine is red. My plan was to paint it yellow with gray covers for kicks and to make it look more "correct".
In "Classic Pickups of the 1950's" on page 49 they illustrate a "56 yblock but the engine is red with black covers and rams head exhaust manifold. There is no cross over. Is this all wrong?
In "Classic Pickups of the 1950's" on page 49 they illustrate a "56 yblock but the engine is red with black covers and rams head exhaust manifold. There is no cross over. Is this all wrong?
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From: Augusta, Georgia
From what little I know, the rams head/horn manifolds were used on bigger trucks and cab-overs, but I believe they can be used on the smaller trucks.
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From: macedon ny
I have a 312 that is dark green I don't know what it came out of but it had a 57 or later dist.and Intake. It is a 312 i took it apart. Some or all of it will someday be in my 57 T-bird.
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From: Augusta, Georgia
I finally got the B-600 bus to the shop yesterday afternoon and, with the help of our forklift and the "Blue-Tongued" cutting tool, had the engine and transmission out in about four hours this morning. The block, heads and intake are dark green, and the only thing I noticed before knocking off for the day was that it used a spin-on/off oil filter, rather that the cartridge-type on the engine that's in my '56 F-350. I'll clean it and check for numbers Monday, after work, and give another report.
Johnny
Johnny
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Fellow Members,
The numbers/letters on the block are ECZ-C and the heads ECZ-G, just as stated in several of y'all's replies. The bus has been sitting for about nine years and I have NOT tried to turn it over. Should I just take it to my machine shop or try to turn it, after squirting in some Marvel Mystery Oil? Naturally, I'd like to NOT have to rebuild it, but am prepared to do so, if necessary.
Johnny
The numbers/letters on the block are ECZ-C and the heads ECZ-G, just as stated in several of y'all's replies. The bus has been sitting for about nine years and I have NOT tried to turn it over. Should I just take it to my machine shop or try to turn it, after squirting in some Marvel Mystery Oil? Naturally, I'd like to NOT have to rebuild it, but am prepared to do so, if necessary.
Johnny
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally Posted by captradiator
Fellow Members,
The numbers/letters on the block are ECZ-C and the heads ECZ-G, just as stated in several of y'all's replies. The bus has been sitting for about nine years and I have NOT tried to turn it over. Should I just take it to my machine shop or try to turn it, after squirting in some Marvel Mystery Oil? Naturally, I'd like to NOT have to rebuild it, but am prepared to do so, if necessary.
Johnny
The numbers/letters on the block are ECZ-C and the heads ECZ-G, just as stated in several of y'all's replies. The bus has been sitting for about nine years and I have NOT tried to turn it over. Should I just take it to my machine shop or try to turn it, after squirting in some Marvel Mystery Oil? Naturally, I'd like to NOT have to rebuild it, but am prepared to do so, if necessary.
Johnny
Also, if you don't rebuild, you might end up with a leaking rear main seal. They dry out from sitting, then when the engine's started when the seal is dry, the seal scorches and then it leaks.
Good luck.
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From: Southern New Hampshire
My suggestions:
1 Put PB down the holes as Paul said; just enough to soak in past the rings. You can buy PB by the gallon with a hand pump spray bottle these days.
2. Drop the pan, clean sump and oil filter screen.
3. Pull mains and rod caps one at a time and look for damage.
4. If bearings look good then pull and replace the rear seal. All 312's were rope until very recently.
5. Turn it over by hand with plugs still out.
6. New plugs, cap, rotor, condenser and wires.
7. Fire in the hole.
The above takes very little time and money. Y's have a long history of coming to life after decades of sitting. Often times the only shop work that needs doing is rebuilding the rocker assemblies; many Y's were junked when oil passages plugged up.
1 Put PB down the holes as Paul said; just enough to soak in past the rings. You can buy PB by the gallon with a hand pump spray bottle these days.
2. Drop the pan, clean sump and oil filter screen.
3. Pull mains and rod caps one at a time and look for damage.
4. If bearings look good then pull and replace the rear seal. All 312's were rope until very recently.
5. Turn it over by hand with plugs still out.
6. New plugs, cap, rotor, condenser and wires.
7. Fire in the hole.
The above takes very little time and money. Y's have a long history of coming to life after decades of sitting. Often times the only shop work that needs doing is rebuilding the rocker assemblies; many Y's were junked when oil passages plugged up.
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