does anyone know where to get a forged 460 crank with stock stroke? Thanks

 

Your options are very limited, so far as I know.

1) Aftermarket billet cranks like a Crower, Callies, etc. Very expensive.

2) The old Ford Motorsport forgings. Kind of scarce nowadays but I've heard that Sonny Bryant can still supply them. Not quite as expensive, but getting up there.

The stock cast iron crank will survive quite a bit if prepped right; the Scat cast steel will take close to 900 hp and is dirt cheap, & available in stock stroke.

The 370 & 429 forgings are of lesser stroke, but easily found.

 

I went to the scat site and I only found a cast crank that would handle 500 HP. I am hoping to be past that. Any other suggestions? Thanks again

 

my service manual on my 78 460 says it has a nodular iron crank, whats the difference of that and a cast crank?

 

What exactly are you looking to do? The stock cranks are better than the aftermarket stuff. There are a lot of people using stock and Scat cranks at 800 HP.
I used one of the steel truck crankshafts in my motor but I'm running a short stroke.

 

The Scat cranks, like a lot of aftermarket stuff, is underrated, because they know people are going to exceed the given recommendations, regardless of what Scat says. The current thinking is that 900 hp is at, or slightly over, the limit. I know of one case where the crank finally showed cracks in a supercharged 557 (4.5" stroke) at 950 hp. There are a lot of people running them at 700-800 hp with no problems. RPM has a lot to do with lifespan; the crank loads at 9000 RPM are ridiculously higher than at 7000 rpm.

Nodular iron is cast; it's just higher quality than "ordinary" cast iron (very simplified statement, so metallurgists, no throwing stones, please). The Scat & Eagle cranks are cast steel, considered to be better yet, but still reasonably cheap to make. That being said, cast iron cranks are more durable than is usually thought. I had a cast BBC crank that survived 550 hp just fine for years (still have it), and got 150 hp nitrous shots on top of that on a much too regular basis.

The stock Ford 460 cranks are very good & will survive a lot of hp; the problem, if it can be called that, is that most BBF builders are going for a lot of CI and want a longer stroke. The limit of offset grinding is about 4.14" on a Ford crank. A little more is possible, not much; most "off-the-shelf" stroker pistons are for 4.14", 4.3", or 4.5" cranks. The stock crank won't take a 4.3" or 4.5" offset grind.

The stock stroke Ford cranks do not have a generous radius on the journals (nor do most others). They can be given this on a regrind, but many machine shops aren't going to do it unless you ask, and some don't even know how. The Scat cranks all have a 1/8" radius, even the stock 3.85" stroke unit. They also use stock size main bearings, and Ford or Chebby stock size rod bearings depending on the crank. For the cost of the machine work a lot of builders just use a Scat or Eagle, even for a stock stroke, for these reasons, but the Ford crank is tough and is fine if prepped correctly.

Scat also does custom billet cranks, not listed on the site; you have to call & discuss your needs. Personally, if I was doing what you plan, I'd use a regular cast steel Scat, or a Ford if I trusted the machine shop & didn't need over 4.14". My $.02.

 

ok that being said I guess I will just go with scat or eagle. They are both about the same price at about $265, I believe. I ma hoping to get about 650 HP and turn close to 6800 rpm's so I guess they should be ok.

 

You have to add the cost of balancing to that also as they come unbalanced. That will add about $200+dollars bacause of the cost of mallory. For what you are going to do a stock iron crankshaft will be fine.

 

Unless things have changed, the Eagle & Scat stock stroke cranks come as a "3Y" design, with similar design & weight to the later 460 truck cranks with external balancing, & use the later spacer/counterweight & flexplate; the Mallory is used if you want it internally balanced. This one can & has been argued for years as to the pros & cons of each; I think it's easier to internally balance things if for no other reason than to make it easy to interchange flexplates, etc. At 6800 rpm a lot of builders would recommend internal balancing to be on the safe side. The same would apply if you were using the late Ford crank, too.

At those levels, a Ford crank would be fine too; I'd definitely get it turned by someone who knows what they're doing in order to get the bigger journal radii. It will help the crank survive, especially when more power is needed later, which it always is, seems like.

 

so, all of the aftermarket ones are externally balanced and my stock ford crank was internally balanced. Does anyone sell an internallly balanced stock stroke?

 

just to add to this as of right now the choices in after market at cast (reasonable price) and billet (around $3k or slightly under) but Eliminator is working on a forged crank that is supposed to be out this summer, and when I talked to them they were looking to be in the range of half the cost of the billet cranks, and were talking about any stroke from stock 429 (3.59") all the way upto 4.750".
As to whether the aftermarket cranks are for external balanced engine, what is actually set up is they have the smaller counter weights like an external balanced engine so they can be used in the later model truck blocks without clearance problems but are supposed to be able to be internal balanced without too much mallory, although that would also depend seriously on the pistons, and rods used, and there are alot of guys turning a lot more than 7000 rpm with an easy 800+hp without problems in these cast cranks

 

The 460 change from internal to external in 79.

 

Check at flatlanderracing.com they have some good cranks and stroker kits availible.

 

If you're only shooting for 650 hp and 6800 RPM's, don't waste your money on another crank. Use your stock one. It will hold up to those power levels easily.

 

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