95 dash bulbs,
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Sorry Muffinman:
The only way I know how to change the bulbs in the dash is to remove the dash itself. Not really tough, but not fun either. The last time one of the bulbs burned, I replaced all of them just to be sure I don't have to deal with it too soon thereafter.
The only way I know how to change the bulbs in the dash is to remove the dash itself. Not really tough, but not fun either. The last time one of the bulbs burned, I replaced all of them just to be sure I don't have to deal with it too soon thereafter.
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
A handy tool to use for removing the dash is made by Snap On - it looks like
a blunter version of the tool gardeners use to dig out dandelions, bent and
with the "V" at the tip. Watched my mechanic use it when he replaced the
headlight switch. Come to think of it, that switch is somewhat notorious so
maybe you'd want to check it's condition while you have the dash off anyhow.
a blunter version of the tool gardeners use to dig out dandelions, bent and
with the "V" at the tip. Watched my mechanic use it when he replaced the
headlight switch. Come to think of it, that switch is somewhat notorious so
maybe you'd want to check it's condition while you have the dash off anyhow.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Texas
I am a well stocked Snap-On tool man, I thought I was going to have to remove that curved dash to get at all of them. One reason i do them all too.
Thought mayb someone had a trick to get around it.
Thought mayb someone had a trick to get around it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
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From: Mitchell, SD
Originally Posted by Muffinman
Thought mayb someone had a trick to get around it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Texas
Man I had to take the whole front dash a part and the lower cover. I replaced ever bulb I found too.
I cleaned the inside as well while it was apart. I cleaned the AC duct, took the clear cover off the instrument cluster and cleaned it, Washed all the parts and used blue lock tight on the screws.
For those that need to know, Two sizes of Torks 10-15, A pick to remove headlight **** "Find the little notch and push the pick back towards the **** while pulling"
I cleaned the inside as well while it was apart. I cleaned the AC duct, took the clear cover off the instrument cluster and cleaned it, Washed all the parts and used blue lock tight on the screws.
For those that need to know, Two sizes of Torks 10-15, A pick to remove headlight **** "Find the little notch and push the pick back towards the **** while pulling"
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 208
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From: Brooklyn, NY
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FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,809
Likes: 244
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
It's not so much the headlight switch that goes bad, as the connector at the headlight switch that overheats, melts, and takes out the switch.
IOW, if you have a failed HL switch, the connector usually needs to be replaced as well.
Hmmm. I see that I wrote a post last August on replacing this on my '93, just before I sold it to a friend, but that I didn't actually post it here, only on my own website. I'll go fix that . . . OK, posted here.
IOW, if you have a failed HL switch, the connector usually needs to be replaced as well.
Hmmm. I see that I wrote a post last August on replacing this on my '93, just before I sold it to a friend, but that I didn't actually post it here, only on my own website. I'll go fix that . . . OK, posted here.
Last edited by asavage; May 7, 2012 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Added link.
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This is a way old thread, but in case anyone's wondering how to get the PRNDL indicator detached from the instrument cluster (my Aerostar is a 95) the two bolts you have to remove are 7/32" hex head. I used a ratchet screwdriver with a 1/4" drive bit and 7/32" socket, then a magnetic retriever to get at the loose bolts so they don't fall back into the dash or something. It's kind of an odd size socket to have, which is why I mention it. I'm in the process of replacing the instrument lighting with 194 size LEDs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,013
Likes: 205
From: SoCal
I replaced a bunch of dash lights with some 194 LEDs, and less than a month later, one of them started to blink out. A year later, I think two have stopped working. When enough of them die that I can no longer see the instruments, I will have to go in and replace them. It doesn't matter what car you have, getting into the dash is not a breeze. So I would take a bunch of them, more than you think you need, burn them in on a bench for a few days, and take those that survive. If you can simulate the enclosed environment of the instrument panel, which traps heat around the bulbs that make them burn out sooner.
The LED replacements I got were also polarized, so I had to make sure to install them with their +/- contacts matching those in the sockets.
The LED replacements I got were also polarized, so I had to make sure to install them with their +/- contacts matching those in the sockets.
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, Washington
FTE Community Team
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,809
Likes: 244
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
5.5mm was a fairly common size that Ford, specifically, used a lot in that decade.
7/32" is a good work-around, because it's very close, and if you're using a 6-point socket, perfectly acceptable.
I didn't want future readers to think that it's actually an SAE fastener, though. That would be the same as when people talk about working on Hillmans/Whitworth and saying, "you have to use a 9/16" socket for the carby base fittings" when it's nothing of the sort; that's only a work-around for the correct tool, and if you're working with Whitworth vehicles, you should have Whitworth tools.
7/32" is a good work-around, because it's very close, and if you're using a 6-point socket, perfectly acceptable.
I didn't want future readers to think that it's actually an SAE fastener, though. That would be the same as when people talk about working on Hillmans/Whitworth and saying, "you have to use a 9/16" socket for the carby base fittings" when it's nothing of the sort; that's only a work-around for the correct tool, and if you're working with Whitworth vehicles, you should have Whitworth tools.
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