winching points

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Mar 5, 2005 | 03:29 AM

jughead2

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Joined: Jan 2005

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winching points

I am almost done building my winch bumper and am trying to get some more ideas on how to make some anchors to pull off of. I went to the tractor supply place around here and didn't find much. My bumper started off a 107lb peice of 10" c channel that I tapered down to 5" on both sides so that I would have more ground clearance in front of the tires. Since I'm trying to keep as much ground clearance as possible I dont want to mount tow hooks, etc. under the bumper. My two thoughts right now are either getting some kind of large U bolt and put it through the bumper and weld it front and back, or making my bumper brackets out of plate (so they would bolt to the frame rails) and make them stick through the bumper, weld them front and back and drill a hole through them so I could use something like clevis pins. I also thought of using a receiver hitch but don't think it will clear my winch. The trouble I'm having is trying to decide what size plate steel, U bolt, clevis pin, etc. is strong enough so that it doesn't bend if I need to make a side pull on it. FWIW it is a 8000 lb winch on a 91 sb ex-cab. Any other suggestions or ideas would be appreciated as well.

Mar 5, 2005 | 11:29 AM

rebocardo

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Joined: Jun 2002

Posts: 13,873

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From: Atlanta GA

I am putting a 3/16 8" C-channel on the front of my truck, so I will tell you how I am doing the front. 1/2" x 3"w x 12"L bar going through the front C-channel, welded to the channel as a bumper bracket. L&R hand are boxed, front and back with 3/16 channel so a pull does not twist the frame.

Here is a picture of my rear bumper done with 3/16 channel, the top of the bumper (5x5 structural steel) is bolted to the frame at the top, the 3/16 channel is the bumper bracket and sticks out as a place for safety chains.

I figure if I lose my trailer and the safety chains manages to rip through the 3/16 channel I have other issues to worry about.

I use the same idea for the front, but, I make it 1/2" plate in the front so I can use it for pulling. I drill a 3/4" hole trhough it for shackle pins. Also, I put my tow hooks under and behind my front bumper bolted through the 1/2 plate. If I do not have a shackle handy I can always use the hooks for a strap.

Plus, this way if I want to put a tow bar unto the truck, its pretty easy since they use 1/2" bolts.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=71105&.jpg

Last edited by rebocardo; Mar 5, 2005 at 11:34 AM.

Mar 5, 2005 | 05:53 PM

mustange70

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Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 5,871

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From: Coutts Canada

Weld some tab just in off the frame rails so you can mount a fairly large screw type clevis, make the tabs out of 1" thick plate and weld er' to the bumper you're making.

Mar 5, 2005 | 06:46 PM

mark a.

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Joined: Mar 2004

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Look in my gallery. Probably not what your looking for, but it might give you some ideas.

Mar 7, 2005 | 10:46 PM

Hooker Bob

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Joined: Dec 2004

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From: Duncan,OK

Want some neat ideas try www.awdirect.com wrecker supply.

Mar 8, 2005 | 01:41 PM

fishmanndotcom

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Joined: May 2000

Posts: 9,236

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From: Senoia, GA

this is what i did on the rear of my truck

and for the front i welded 1" thick metal tabs and drilled a hole in the middle... and i run clevises up front

-cutts-

Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Mar 8, 2005 at 01:49 PM.

Mar 8, 2005 | 01:46 PM

jopey

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2000

Posts: 936

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From: Bay area

http://www.1ton4x4.com/swing%20gate/rocklite.jpg

3/8 plate then another peice of 3/4" plate welded to that. drilled with 1" holes.

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Mar 8, 2005 | 02:14 PM

Momudder720

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Joined: Jan 2003

Posts: 1,162

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From: House Springs, MO

Ooh, fishy, the chains for a step bar are SO redneck, and absolutely brilliant! I am SO doing that for my other truck! Also need a grab handle, so we can stop using the steering wheel...as for the winch point, you can use the D-ring idea, except instead of attaching the D-ring tab so that the ring pivots up and down, attach it so the pivot is side to side. Pulling from the front on it will cause the same forces, but from a side angle, since it can swing side to side, it won't go thru the can-opener forces.
Understand?
If you're going with the clevis idea, use the same concept. On my dad's chipper truck, the male end of the receiver hitch, instead of being 2 1/2 (or whatever it is) square tubing, it's solid. You could cut off a sliver of that and weld it on just thick enough for your clevis pin to fit thru.

Last edited by Momudder720; Mar 8, 2005 at 02:17 PM.