I am considering a Winch (Not a Wench as I have my full of them) for my 99.5MY 4x4, CC XLT.

Now, that may not seem like a big deal to some of you. But, other than First Responder Recovery Work I have not had a need for one.

I have searched the Forum (and others) and found several threads regarding Winch’s. But, none addressing what I need input on....

That, being FACT, EXPERIENCE, and FIRST HAND KNOWLEDGE and not OPINION.

I will use it only a few times annually. Unfortunately, age is preventing me from doing all the bull work associated with maintaining five acres of wooded and clear land with a Creek and Tributary. So, a Winch is definitely something I NEED rather than WANT.

With that being said, here is what I am seeking knowledge of:

1. 2”Receiver Cradle that will allow both Front and Rear Operation.

a. Has anyone had any issue personally? Or,

b. can lend some knowledgeable comments regarding the Cradle System?

c. Since it is mountable both Front and Rear, I will of course install a 2” Receiver up front from “Draw-Tite 65022 2" Square Front Mount Hitch Receiver” The Cross Member will require me to remove my Driving Lamps and will encroach on the "Air Opening". However, I don't see either as an issue. I will be adding an Air Dam to force air into that area. and,

d. Wire it to the back as well. Using a Solenoid to control which is hot and when so it’s not powered when the key is in the off position at either the Front or Rear.

e. I may add a third battery as well. Use will determine that need further down the road.

2. The winch is an 8,000 LB Straight-Pull Warn Model #M8000.

a. I chose this because it has 5/16” Rope (Wire) and allows for 94’ rather than 30’ using 3/8”.

b. I will use it as both straight pull and mechanical advantage (2:1) with ******-Blocks.

My Proposed Setup:

Warn #26502 Electric Winch 8.000 lbs. straight pull and 100' of 5/16 in wire rope.

WARN #26370 Multi-Mount Winch Carrier Kit

Draw-Tite #65022 2" Square Front Mount Hitch Receiver

And an additional $500 for ****** Block, Clevis Rings, Straps, etc..

I chose Warn only because I have used their equipment on Emergency Calls over 30 years. Draw-Tite only because I found their product and read several reviews posted.

I am finding it very pragmatic to use a 5-Ton Come-A-Long now with back problems any more.

Although.... I did bend a handle on a 2-Ton the other evening pulling a 24” Stump. First time I ever bent one. Just a note, a come-a-long’s handles has a built in safety feature. The handle will collapse (bend). You should always replace it with a FACTORY handle and not make your own – Just FYI. SAFETY

 

You can always build your own cradle if you can weld. A far as the front hitch I went with the Curt which comes out below the bumper and does not require the fog lamps to go away. (I also built a top side creeper that slides into the hitch) Will the Draw Tite allow you to keep your blocker bar?

 

I just looked at that system and it's three times the price of the Draw-Tite and has the same specifications. The weight limit on the Draw Tite is 9,000 and the Curt is 5,000.





It has it's own Blocker Bar. It attaches at either Tow Hook. The Bumper must be removed and reinstalled - not a big deal.

 

Not sure where you are looking but the Curt 31014 is about $25 cheaper than the Draw Tite 65022 at $196 with free shipping from realtruck.com.
They both have identical specifications, 5,000 lbs weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. The Curt bolts to the frame right under the blocker beam and to the front spring pack bolt. It also has 2 self threading 3/8" bolts that you drill and thread into the blocker beam. The air dam, fog lights and blocker beam remain.
2002 Ford F350 Curt Front Mount Receiver Hitch - Front Hitches For Trucks & SUVs

 

I think the deciding factor might be how high you want it, the Curt is lower. Also it looks like the Draw-Tite might restrict air flow to the PS cooler and the other radiators?


I checked out that Warn Cradle and it is SWEET! Now you have me thinking. Thanks for helping me spend more money

 

Apparently, only the 00MY (Sept on) Mid year forward have the Blocker Beam. Previous they do not. Mine is a 99.5

Learn something new everyday.

 

First off I will qualify myself, 20+ years of desert racing and 15 years of rock crawling and racing have given me the opportunity to winch some crazy recoveries. Add to that a 5 year stint as a firefighter with an advanced cliff rescue certification covers some of the safety issues and to top it off lived in a cabin in the remote forest with no snow plow service and I have done more winching then I can recall. Oh and I have been to the Warn factory to film a "how it's made " segment on the warn winch line.


I have owned the m8000 in a cradle but personally found it cumbersome and a PITA to deal with. From a planning perspective it seems to make sense to have a front and rear winch, but in practice there is very few times if ever you can't accomplish the task from a front mounted winch. But to each there own, if you want the cradle system then do it. I will focus on some other advise.

1. Buy a higher capicity winch. As a rule of thumb get one rated at 1 1/2 times the weight of your vehicle. While 8000 pounds seems like plenty for around the homestead when you are dragging dead weight you have to factor in the weight of the object plus the resistance of dragging it over the terrain. I would suggest a 12,000 rated winch on your F250

2. Skip the wire rope. It is horrible nasty stuff to use, maintain and deal with. Besides the fact it stretches when you are using it which will cause it to violently whip saw back and try to kill you if or when it breaks, the frayed wires are going to poke you making you curse, bleed and whine. Use synthetic rope, Warn sells their own brand and will tell you that it is required due to melting points. I have been inside warns top secret test lab and while they are technically correct under lab conditions you will Never heat your winch to those temps in real use. ( they sell to .govs, fire depts, military ect and have to cover their ****. I use rope from winchline.com but pulpal.com is also legit. Skip Amazon,eBay and others as they are know to be selling inferior Chinese knockoff rope that isn't the same quality as the 2 I listed. They use the same rope you will find in commercial tug boat service pulling some of e heaviest loads on earth. Synthetic rope doesn't stretch which means if you break it it just fall to the ground, you dont need to run a rope weight on it to keep it from whip sawing in the event of breakage. And the best part ( as if that wasn't enough reason ). Is the ease of handling. No gloves required, no bloody hands from wire stabs, it is just a pleasure to work with. Oh and if you break it... Tie a knot and keep winching until you can either splice it or replace it.

3. Equipment
A. Synthetic rope requires a smooth fairlead not a roller style.
B. Get a "tree Saver" or similar, lengths of synthetic rope with spliced lthimbles on the ends and a secondary braided outer sheath to protect the rope providing the strength from abrasion. Use these to attach to the things you are moving.
C. Skip the hook end on your rope and get the Aluminum thimble. This does 2 things, you attach your shakle and rigging to it and it keeps you from sucking the rope past the fairlead when you are putting the rope back on the drum. I will post a pic.
D.****** blocks. With a ****** block you should never need a rear winch. I prefer the ARB blocks. Winchline.com carries them, they are one of those things you rarely ever actually need but are cool to have.

Should you choose to take my advise on the cradle mount setup I would suggest a hidden winch mount that goes under your factory bumper. These are nifty if you don't want a big winch bumper.

Smooth fairlead and stopper thimble.

 

Tree Saver. Basically a rigging line with an outer braided sheath to keep the rope from shafing as you are going to abuse the snot out of this rigging rope dragging stuff around.

 

I don't know how you plan on using your winch but I have had totrusted my life with my winch and rope on several occasions and it is slightly more comforting not having any made in China unknowns in the system.

Find yourself some made in the USA shakes for rigging.

 

ARB ****** block.

 

my suggestion,

The VR1200 with a hidden mount under your stock bumper.
( if you are trying to figure out why the vr is about 1/2 the price of the m series when they look similar.... They use Motors and contacts made by Bosch in Brazil instead of domestic. Warn simply doesn't make a bad winch and their "entry level" is no exception. It's a great winch. Yes I have used them on more then one occasion.

And pick up a handy pull if you insist on a rear winch. I know it is only 1000lb single line pull rated but I kid you not, One of the most handy tools to own if you have acres of land and stuff to move. Crazy how much we use ours in the shop as well.

 

Going off the rails here a bit.

I had a similar sized warn mounted behind a factory full size Bronco bumper with a custom made mount. The warn ( sorta Hidden ) mount is made so you can mount one of their larger winches. I would be willing to wager you can either custom build a mount or modify the warn mount so the bumper is doesn't need those goofy looks spacers. Should be a straight forward job for a trailer hitch/muffler type welding shop or a 4x4 shop if you are not a DIY metal fabricator.

 

You're input is exactly what I needed to hear. My pocketbook would argue otherwise.

I priced everything out (Warn has a $150 rebate on the VR12000). It'll all run about $1500 for everything. I already have about 8 straps of different lengths 4" Wide @ 16,800 lbs.

Thanks!

 

The great thing about using synthetic winch rope is when you abuse the snot out of your slings and rigging and one breaks... And one will break, is that because the synthetic winch rope doesn't stretch it is isn't going to whip saw back and try to kill you, like I mention it just falls to the ground, no big deal. The down side to this however... When using wire rope, most folks with some winch experienced learn to fear the wire and keep their distance and heads up.... With the synthetic it gets easy to let your guard down when you are winching since you know the rope isn't likely to kill you. But obviously putting stuff under huge loads can be dangerous so keeping alert is a must.

A good quality hardended chain is pretty handy for dragging stuff around as well but I reserve that for around the farm as I hate chain rattling around in my truck and would never keep it in the passenger compartment due to keeping it secure in a accident. ( being a fire fighter you see people die from all sorts of crazy stuff )

 

Good call going with the higher capicity winch, the m8000 is a good unit, just not in your weight class.

Trust me, once you start pulling stuff around it gets easy to stall out your winch.