Wicked Wheel
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From: Chicago suburbs
Wicked Wheel
For those of you that have replaced their turbo compressor wheel with the Wicked Wheel, I was wondering where you got the torque settings for all the turbo bolts. I just ordered me a wicked wheel and 4" exhaust 
and want to have as much information as possible. I do not have the luxury of having mechanically inclined friends and will be doing this by myself, so the more I know the easier it will be. I want to make sure that the turbo bolts back up and not leak or break a bolt (or the turbo) tightening them. I’ve heard that a few of the bolts are in an area that’s hard to reach. What were the average times it took you to complete the install? What are some of the pitfalls? Any hints, or things to do, to make it easier? I’ve wrenched on my trucks when I was younger, before they had computers for brains. Now I only do the easy stuff. I can’t afford someone to do this for me, so I’ll just take my time and do it right the first time. Any and all posts will be appreciated, thanks. 
and want to have as much information as possible. I do not have the luxury of having mechanically inclined friends and will be doing this by myself, so the more I know the easier it will be. I want to make sure that the turbo bolts back up and not leak or break a bolt (or the turbo) tightening them. I’ve heard that a few of the bolts are in an area that’s hard to reach. What were the average times it took you to complete the install? What are some of the pitfalls? Any hints, or things to do, to make it easier? I’ve wrenched on my trucks when I was younger, before they had computers for brains. Now I only do the easy stuff. I can’t afford someone to do this for me, so I’ll just take my time and do it right the first time. Any and all posts will be appreciated, thanks.
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
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From: Chicago suburbs
Thanks Cookie,
Printed me a copy of the procedures, Seems straight forward. I am still searching for the torque settings for all the bolts and Marmon clamps. I would hate to blow off a boot after I reassemble it and drive away. Will have to go to Autozone to see if I can find it in their library of Manuals. Thanks...
Printed me a copy of the procedures, Seems straight forward. I am still searching for the torque settings for all the bolts and Marmon clamps. I would hate to blow off a boot after I reassemble it and drive away. Will have to go to Autozone to see if I can find it in their library of Manuals. Thanks...
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
I am still searching for the torque settings for all the bolts and Marmon clamps.
The only place you have to be careful on the torque is the clamps that hold the orange boots to the engine's intakes, the intakes are stamped steel and it is possible to crush them. The housing bolts, if I remember correctly, are a 1/4" by 24 with a 5/16" head, which would make the proper torque 70-85 in.lbs. The wheel itself needs only snugged up, it's rotation will make it self torque....if there is such a thing.
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From: Chicago suburbs
Once I get most of the specifications on the garrett turbo and the other bolts associated with the replacement, I will post it in this thread. I found only one email for the garrett turbo and am waiting for a reply.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 10
From: Templeton, Massachussetts
Originally Posted by kawika
For those of you that have replaced their turbo compressor wheel with the Wicked Wheel, I was wondering where you got the torque settings for all the turbo bolts. I just ordered me a wicked wheel and 4" exhaust and want to have as much information as possible. I do not have the luxury of having mechanically inclined friends and will be doing this by myself, so the more I know the easier it will be. I want to make sure that the turbo bolts back up and not leak or break a bolt (or the turbo) tightening them. I’ve heard that a few of the bolts are in an area that’s hard to reach. What were the average times it took you to complete the install? What are some of the pitfalls? Any hints, or things to do, to make it easier? I’ve wrenched on my trucks when I was younger, before they had computers for brains. Now I only do the easy stuff. I can’t afford someone to do this for me, so I’ll just take my time and do it right the first time. Any and all posts will be appreciated, thanks.
and want to have as much information as possible. I do not have the luxury of having mechanically inclined friends and will be doing this by myself, so the more I know the easier it will be. I want to make sure that the turbo bolts back up and not leak or break a bolt (or the turbo) tightening them. I’ve heard that a few of the bolts are in an area that’s hard to reach. What were the average times it took you to complete the install? What are some of the pitfalls? Any hints, or things to do, to make it easier? I’ve wrenched on my trucks when I was younger, before they had computers for brains. Now I only do the easy stuff. I can’t afford someone to do this for me, so I’ll just take my time and do it right the first time. Any and all posts will be appreciated, thanks. 10mm swivel socket a must.
the bolts have an 8mm 12 point head. and 8 X 1.25mm pitch. mine we rusted in and had to heat them and use vise grips. then i used new bolts w/ 6mm allens. much better this way.
do not forget new o-rings on the pedistall!!!
good luck. you will need the tool i described. no swivels..buy them it cannot be done w/ out them.
i have them @ work,forgot the swivels. so luckily my neighbor is a MAC tool guy. on a sunday morning i was at his door.lol lol
Last edited by 18vtx00; Feb 28, 2005 at 09:00 PM.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,427
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From: Templeton, Massachussetts
Originally Posted by 18vtx00
it is very hard to get @ the 2 rear bolts on the pedistall.
10mm swivel socket a must.
the bolts have an 8mm 12 point head. and 8 X 1.25mm pitch. mine we rusted in and had to heat them and use vise grips. then i used new bolts w/ 6mm allens. much better this way.
do not forget new o-rings on the pedistall!!!
good luck. you will need the tool i described. no swivels..buy them it cannot be done w/ out them.
i have them @ work,forgot the swivels. so luckily my neighbor is a MAC tool guy. on a sunday morning i was at his door.lol lol
10mm swivel socket a must.
the bolts have an 8mm 12 point head. and 8 X 1.25mm pitch. mine we rusted in and had to heat them and use vise grips. then i used new bolts w/ 6mm allens. much better this way.
do not forget new o-rings on the pedistall!!!
good luck. you will need the tool i described. no swivels..buy them it cannot be done w/ out them.
i have them @ work,forgot the swivels. so luckily my neighbor is a MAC tool guy. on a sunday morning i was at his door.lol lol
mine is a 1996 and the pedistall must come off.
so i guess yours is a little different.
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From: Kingsland, GA
From a Haynes manual:
Turbo to pedestal: 18 ft lbs
Pedestal to engine: 18 ft lbs
These are the #'s I used to do mine, and have had no problems since. I don't have a # for the compressor wheel, as Haynes says you shouldn't be taking it apart (where's the fun in that!)
Turbo to pedestal: 18 ft lbs
Pedestal to engine: 18 ft lbs
These are the #'s I used to do mine, and have had no problems since. I don't have a # for the compressor wheel, as Haynes says you shouldn't be taking it apart (where's the fun in that!)
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From: Chicago suburbs
I finally received an email back from the Garrett Rep with the torque setting for the turbo housing. This is what he had to say.
> everything on the GTP38's and the TP38's torque to 200 inch pounds except
> for the comp. wheel it torques to 100 inch pounds. Let them know that they
> need to use loc-tite on the turbine housing, but never put loc-tite on the
> comp. wheel. I hope this helps :-)<O
></O>
<O></O>
I also found some <YR 2001>drawings and part number and have added the torque settings that I have found so far.
> everything on the GTP38's and the TP38's torque to 200 inch pounds except
> for the comp. wheel it torques to 100 inch pounds. Let them know that they
> need to use loc-tite on the turbine housing, but never put loc-tite on the
> comp. wheel. I hope this helps :-)<O
></O><O
></O>I also found some <YR 2001>drawings and part number and have added the torque settings that I have found so far.
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