Ball Joints
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
I feel better knowing someone else bought a hub from a different supplier that did not have the studs as I thought Oreilly might have cheated me. One of the wheel studs was bent but I pressed one of them out of the old hub and it was easy. The hub studs were a different story and had I known the studs did not come I would have bought them a head of time.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
i was not going to remove the studs in the adapter(i have drw) but i dropped the whole assembly and 3-4 came out on their own.
man, those hub studs were a pain. for $268 i would not have minded paying $5 more for the studs.
man, those hub studs were a pain. for $268 i would not have minded paying $5 more for the studs.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
My cost for the napa joints was $178, I didn't ask if they were Moogs or not.
The ford joints were $132 and the parts guy said they were both greasable (I get a better discount there I think).
Assuming that the Ford joints are both greasable I was just wondering about their quality.
The ford joints were $132 and the parts guy said they were both greasable (I get a better discount there I think).
Assuming that the Ford joints are both greasable I was just wondering about their quality.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
None of the bearings come with the mounting studs. You are supposed to lock 2 nuts together and back them out. Its ok to heat the old bearing. I wouldn't get anything other than moog joints cause they are greasable and lifetime warr for upper and lower. one side they are $100.00
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
My advice to anyone having to replace the hub wheel bearing assembly is go to ford and buy the studs and nuts ahead of time. They are part number F81Z 1107 AA and they are $3.00 a piece and the nuts are part number F81Z 1120 AA and are $1.50 a piece Under $20.00 bucks for all 4. I got my hub at Oreilly's for $223. it listed for $286. my brother works there part time. I tried 99f350 advice but the both nuts just spun. I finally used a pipe wrench advice from someone on this sight and it was not pretty. I used antiseize compound and I am gonna take the hub back off and replace the studs.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
I used the anti sieze compound liberally when I put it back together with the thought that I would locate the studs and replace them as at least one of them had damage to the threads and it was the one inside the hub. WHich would mean it was probably over tighened at the factory.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
I used moog because that is what Oreilly carries and I get a better price there. With out discount they would have been $186.00 instead they were $123.00. The Moogs came with 90 degree zerks. Grease the ball joints before you put the axle back. It is much easier to remove the 90 degree zerk and put the plug in. I studied the 90 degree zerks a lot as I thought the axle ujoint would clear, but I just could not talk myself into trying it as it was that close.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: People's republic of MA
I'm about to undertake the same project... can someone with the pics of the seals and pipe tool either email me or post them in their gallery? I'd really appreciate it
Thanks
Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
trust me cuda you will want to make the tool. When you first look at the seal you will think that it will not work. Had I observed the axle and seal at the same time I would have known better. The web sight he gave you is very helpful. I would get a ball joint press somewhere as some parts places loan them out. Good snap ring pliers are also a must the rings on the end of the axle are strong and an air wrench.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: People's republic of MA
rlkern, thanks for the advice... everyone always talks about how evil the ball joints are to replace... but it seems if you have the right tools, and a good set of instructions, it shouldn't be too too bad.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
I followed advice on the suggested web site. I got all the parts before hand and rented a ball joint press. The hardest thing on my truck was the driver's side rotor and hub (wheel bearing) neither wanted to come off. The passengers side-the rotor came off with finger tip pressure and the hub came off much easier than the drivers side. The large axle seal was sure as heck agravating. One side took three and half hours to replace ball joints the other side would have been done in an hour.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Thats very true, however besides being a canine officer I am a part time farm and it is about that time when we get real busy. And this truck is used a lot until planting, haying and cattle are done. Having the right tools does help greatly.
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