Ball Joints
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,007
Likes: 1
From: Newport News
Ball Joints
I'm doing my ball joints on the passenger side this weekend because I have some play in the lower ball joint. I'm going to replace both the upper and lowers, and I'm wondering if anyone has any tips. I already have a ball joint press and adaptor kit, pitman arm puller for the tie rods, air tools, and hand tools. I've got MOOG ball joints, and I'm ready to go I think. Never done this before, so a little nervous. I'm using the instructions from the Diesel Stop. If anybody's got an tips or tricks, let me know.
Wish me luck
On edit: Should I go ahead and do both sides of the truck or is it ok to just do one side as they wear out?
Wish me luck
On edit: Should I go ahead and do both sides of the truck or is it ok to just do one side as they wear out?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 755
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From: Meriden Ct
Tha whole job sounds worst than it really was.
Two things
1 Get the hub orings from Ford. Good idea to change them. (big yellow oring)
2 If you are changing the axle seals, make sure you have a piece of 2" pipe to install the seal.
Two things
1 Get the hub orings from Ford. Good idea to change them. (big yellow oring)
2 If you are changing the axle seals, make sure you have a piece of 2" pipe to install the seal.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 47
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My 99F250 Lariat is going in to the front end shop Thursday. Ive never have done balljoints but would love to watch someone do them then I would have the knowlwdge to do them. I had the left done 4 months ago at another shop and cost me $379. This new shop tells me $400 for the right side and the alignment. this shop is front end and sospension spealists.
Muleburrow
Muleburrow
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,153
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From: Roseburg OR.
I just changed my pass side steering knuckle and have two things that caused me and my buddy a little headache. #1 was that the axle didn't want to come out when we got the spindle/hub all taken off. We thought it was the rear seal that was hanging us up so we ruined the seal trying to pry and beat on it from the back and that was $32 from Ford. Turns out the axle was just stuck in the diff and required a prybar in the axle u-joint to get it unstuck and out.
My buddy was trying to swap the ball joints from the old knuckle to the new one while I was running to Ford for a new seal and he didn't think both ball joints would press out toward the top but they do. Both press out the top, toward the threaded ends. I'm not sure why he didnt' think they would.
Also be sure to press the bottom one in first. Otherwise you won't be able to get the long threaded shaft of the press (if it's the same as mine) through the hole where the top one is to do the bottom one. I had the top one part way in before I realized I wouldn't be able to get the bottom one and had to take it back out.
Hope some of this helps!
My buddy was trying to swap the ball joints from the old knuckle to the new one while I was running to Ford for a new seal and he didn't think both ball joints would press out toward the top but they do. Both press out the top, toward the threaded ends. I'm not sure why he didnt' think they would.
Also be sure to press the bottom one in first. Otherwise you won't be able to get the long threaded shaft of the press (if it's the same as mine) through the hole where the top one is to do the bottom one. I had the top one part way in before I realized I wouldn't be able to get the bottom one and had to take it back out.
Hope some of this helps!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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I am doing ball joints on my 2000 F350 Ford 4wd psd. I know moog is a good brand but NAPA here carries a different brand and if I bring in the knuckle they will press the old ball joints out for free. I have also heard that it is easy to mess the big axle seals (appearently only available from ford) up when pressing them back on any suggestions here would be appreciated. Also I am taking everyone advice (tired of the vacum leaks and putting warn hubs and plugging the vacum line at the solenoid. On my truck there are two hoses at this solenoid looking thing-one is red and the other is black- from what I can tell the red one goes to the firewall and inside the cab does this sound correct.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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Besides all four ball joints, 2 ford o rings, 2 ford inner axle seals, and 2 ford axle inner seals, pitman arm puller, and my normal hand tools are there any other things I am missing. I am also putting on Warns 38826 hubs. Are there any other parts I am missing. My big concern is pressing the new axle seals on as there are around 24.00 to 35.00 dollars per side. Also will the zerts in the new ball joints clear the axle-ujoint.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,007
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From: Newport News
"2 ford inner axle seals, and 2 ford axle inner seals" - I'm guessing that was a typo, and you meant 2 inner and 2 outer seals. Do you have a ball joint press, or are you going to have NAPA do that? You should have everything you need. I don't know if you have the instructions that I have from The Diesel Stop or not, but they seem pretty helpful. I too am worried about getting the axle seals on. I wonder if NAPA could press them on?
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2001
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i just had my drivers side done yesterday. i thought it was rotors at first, but when i got the wheel off, you could pull up on the hub and feel some play. i assumed it was the wheel bearing assembly, but after replacing it, the play was still there and i discovered the lower ball joint. i didn't have the willpower to take all that crap off again, so i paid $195 for a shop to do it. they turned the rotors too, which would have fixed my original complaint.(i had rotors but returned them to apply the $ towards the hub assembly)
one tool i had to buy was a good heavy duty set of snap ring pliers. i had some light duty ones that just wouldn't cut it. it would be best if they were long reach. the snap ring on the transaxle inside the hub is hard to get to without the right tool.
one tool i had to buy was a good heavy duty set of snap ring pliers. i had some light duty ones that just wouldn't cut it. it would be best if they were long reach. the snap ring on the transaxle inside the hub is hard to get to without the right tool.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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At first, and I had posts from 99f35osd when I was trying to fix auto esof hub, I swore the clunk in my truck was the disc brake or calipher. I took the front wheels off and had my wife start it and apply the brakes. I then walked around the front of the truck prying on various parts of the hub and calipher and disc brake(with a big screwdriver)and I could see movement in the area of the hub. My first thought was the hub but then I got a brighter light and it was obvious the top ball joints were worn on both sides. Also when I checked this with the tires on and the vehicle raised I could detect no movement. NAPA said they could press the ball joints but not the seals. I have heard Ford will do it for a price. I have also heard that 2" diameter pipe will work. If I could get the ball joints done for $195.00 I would do it that way. I have found no one in this area that will do them for under $600.00.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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I guess I did not say it clearly in the post above but 99f350 thought the clunk in my truck was most likely ball joints and not the brakes-he was right. I will install Warn hubs with the ball joints but alas I still need help narrowing a vacum leak down. My heater will only work on deforst regardless of whether the esof is turned on. I believe my problem became worse when I took one of the lock outs off and attempted to oil it up. I read somewhere that someone else had did this, now my guess is that the vacum sucked up some of the lube and is causing it to malfunction. Prior to this the only time it stuck onb defrost was when I engaged the esof.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 755
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From: Meriden Ct
Originally Posted by rlkern
I guess I did not say it clearly in the post above but 99f350 thought the clunk in my truck was most likely ball joints and not the brakes-he was right. I will install Warn hubs with the ball joints but alas I still need help narrowing a vacum leak down. My heater will only work on deforst regardless of whether the esof is turned on. I believe my problem became worse when I took one of the lock outs off and attempted to oil it up. I read somewhere that someone else had did this, now my guess is that the vacum sucked up some of the lube and is causing it to malfunction. Prior to this the only time it stuck onb defrost was when I engaged the esof.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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to bordaine I beleive that connection is okay. Right now the only time my heater control will work properly is when I plug one of the lines at the solenoid/vacum pump looking thing and turn the selector to 4wd. I plugged the black hose under the hood on passengers side. There is a red hose and a black hose. It appears to me that the red hose heads to the firewall which in turn heads to the heater control you are talking about-----I think????