Well, I'm not looking forward to it, but I need to change out the left side upper and lower suspension ball joints on my 2007 E150.

I'm considering having this done by my mechanic, as I dont have all the tools apparently required.

Are both sides generally changed out in tandem, along with the tie rods?
It would seem to me to be somewhat price prohibitive to do both, if the other side isnt as worn.

Thanks for any light cast.

 

Most of the time I will replace all of them, but not always. Remember that when you change balljoints an alignment is required. My thinking is that if one balljoint is on its way out the others may be soon to follow, and it would really stink to have to pay for yet another alignment in a few months when the others failed.

I've never done balljoints on a van before, but I don't believe they're that bad. You can rent a balljoint press and other specialty tools at your local auto parts store. Not sure what's local for you, but I know O'Reilly, Autozone, and Advance all have loan-a-tool programs.

I vote that you get the tools and tackle both sides yourself.

 

The bigger part of the job might be cleaning, packing and setting wheel bearings.

Sixto
93 E150 Chateau 5.8 187K miles

 

I've done ball joints twice on my 98 e150. Other than the ball joint press that can be rented at most auto stores for free after you return it, there are no other unusual tools needed. I did not need to re-do the brakes so I left them on, this made two things easier. I didn't have to re-do the bearings, and it gave me a great surface to clamp the vice on when using the ball joint press (with a rag between the two of course).

 

Having already had this work done twice before here's a few random thoughts...

-If you're doing one ball joint just do all four---it makes no sense whatsoever doing one at a time. It doesn't require that much more time, money or effort and the longer term benefits far, far outweigh any minor one-day inconvenience.

-This isn't an overly complex or horrendously hard task assuming you have a decent mechanical aptitude or experience with working on suspensions.

-A ball joint press is pretty much absolutely necessary for the DIY---its one of the most common ways of R&R'ing these parts.

-Alignment is another absolute necessary step. A temporary measure to allow driving after completion is carefully marking the upper camber setting cams relative to the steering knuckles on each side. When re-installing the knuckles make sure the camber cams are in the previous locations and you're good to go TEMPORARILY.

-Budget be damned, opt for Moog available most fairly priced through Amazon. They come with grease Zerks and incredibly strong boots---none better. Amazon has free shipping, tend to have a good inventory and liberal return policy---Moog warranty also still in place should it be needed.

-While already apart its a good time to inspect and replace any other steering component that looks even halfway sketchy. You're already in need of an alignment so better off replacing things and saving a return trip sometime later. Yeah its a few bucks more up front but longer term reliability is the reward.

-I can't speak to the wheel bearing issues since my latest ball joint replacement also included the '08 brake upgrade to my '03 E250. If calipers are removed repack the bearings---no brainer. I'm guessing since the ball joints need replaced inspecting and at least repacking the bearings is also another no-brainer. (My thread about the brake upgrade here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-photos.html)

I have a few photos of the ball joint process, not sure if they'd be helpful but I can add them to my PhotoBucket pages----let me know.

On another note how many miles on this E150?

 

Thanks to all for the valuable advice, and votes of confidence!

I knew going in, this van needed some front end work, and while I may have been apprehensive in tackling these ball joints, this most likely will be my inaugural voyage into DIY Steering and Suspension.

Having wore through more than my fair share of rotors, I've at least become familiar with packing bearings and servicing the spindle side, and fortunate until now, to have never needed to venture past the knuckle.

I'm actually starting with the swaybar bushings, which may alone, pose some unknown challenges as I understand I'll need a press to get those installed. They're worn thin in the IBeam sockets, and rattling on bumps.
Polyurathane?

Highly appreciate the input, great to know about the tool rentals, Amazon for the ball joints, and I'll keep you posted on my progress!

Oh, and the odometer reads around 181,000.

 

I've installed several sets of urethane OEM-style sway bar bushings---not that difficult but there's no real tool available to do this. The old bushings are removed including a somewhat thin metal shell original to them.

Liberal lubrication with a marine-grade grease helps them into the I-Beam. Most of us have devised combinations of threaded rod, washers, nuts and two fairly thick or stout "washers" which really pushes the urethane bushings into the I-Beam holes. Whatever you use make sure its not expensive or too complicated--its rare most long term owners would ever do this more than once especially with improved bushings.

While you're at this make sure to buy the frame mount U bracket replacement bushings too---I've bought all mine from Jeg's or Amazon, Energy Suspension is the brand of choice. Prothane is another well-known urethane replacement bushing manufacturer.

HTH

 

Thanks for the heads up JWA!
After being presented with a different bushing at three different parts shops, and mine worn beyond recognition, I stopped in a Ford dealership parts dept, to examine the genuine part.
Totally different yet again, but more realistically suited to fit the swaybar. At a whopping $21 each however, I thanked him for his time, and managed to round up both sets (ibeam+frame) for $25. They're not poly, but Moogs, closer to OEM with the metal sleeve.

Stopped by the junk yard to salvage a used U clamp, as my leftside got bashed into a "K" clamp by the previous owner.

I really need to get more efficient with my wireless access, and check this thread often for any info that may appear. Moving forward otherwise may not just be hasty, but ignorant.

 

Sadly installing the OEM bushings with metal sleeves will be more arduous a task than using urethane---those would require a press more similar to the ball joint type. If you'll be doing the ball joints at the same time this will be easy enough.

I still highly recommend the urethane because they're much much more long-lived than the OEM formulations. Of course I like to do a job once in a vehicle's lifetime.

 

I wasn't sure if the urathane were squeeky, or if the metal sleeve of the Moog (OEM's) actually made it easier to press "into" the socket, by keeping the rubber from deforming, or expanding under the pressure.
Fortunately, I checked this thread on my iphone today , and on my way home from work, returned the OEM's when I picked up the frame bushings I ordered yesterday, then stopped by NAPA and heeding your advice, bought the polys instead.
After these are pressed into the ibeam, do the ends of the swaybar push through easily, or best achieved by pressing onto the bar ends first, and then pounded into the Ibeams?

I'll figure it out tomorrow. The ball joints will probably be next weekend, as I still need to purchase, and have them shipped.

 

Does anyone know if the metal casings surrounding the old rubber bushing needs to be retained, and reused with the new caseless urethane bushings?

 

I was under the impression, urethane bushings didn't need the steel metal casings of the rubber OEM type, but the more I read, the more convinced I've become, that these worn out bushings need the rubber remains to be cut, or sawed away, then burned out with a torch, then all residue cleaned out leaving their outer shells undamaged, and ready to have the new urethane bushings pressed into them.
Whats so odd about this, is that no one seems to know about this minor detail, or even mention it.
So at this point, I'm still not sure if I should press these old bushings out entirely, and then prepare them out of the vehicle, or leave the sleeves in the ibeam, and try to press the urethane in them from there.

Whats BS is the manufacturers selling these bushings without sleeves they apparently need, then compounding the issue by failing to note it within, or anywhere on the packaging, and worse still, failing to inform their retailers of this.

 

errr..double post

 

errr triple post.

 

Hoping I'm not too late in replying to your questions Van A Knocking!

The metal shells of the OEM bushings DO need to be removed. The urethane bushings are formed larger diameter on each end, the middle being sized to fully fill the I-Beam hole resulting from complete removal of the OEM bushings.

Having done three of these upgrades I've pushed the factory sway bar into the bushings various ways. Once just fitting each end of the bar into a bushing then prying it in place before installing the frame U brackets.

Have also pushed one end into a bushing, wiggling the bar until it (finally) slides into the other bushing.

Not sure there's one best way----any way that gets it in place is the best though!