Ball Joints
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 755
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From: Meriden Ct
Originally Posted by rlkern
to bordaine I beleive that connection is okay. Right now the only time my heater control will work properly is when I plug one of the lines at the solenoid/vacum pump looking thing and turn the selector to 4wd. I plugged the black hose under the hood on passengers side. There is a red hose and a black hose. It appears to me that the red hose heads to the firewall which in turn heads to the heater control you are talking about-----I think????
PS empty the glove box first or it will dump the contents on the floor
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
I have two questions. I have found that connection-there is a black and a white hose attached to a connector of some type with a black and white hose coming out of it. I checked the vacum lines at the pump or whatever it is that is located on the passengers side fender well near the solenoid. There are two hoses there one is black and one is red. When I turn the esof selector I get vacum pressure on a vacum gauge but when I attach the vacum gauge to the red hose I get nothing. MYHEATER CONTROLS ARE ON DEFROST ALL THE TIME. ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 2
From: Denver, CO
Without going to an alignment shop how do tell your ball joints are bad. Clunking? Play in the steering? I have had 3 F250's over the years and never replaced ball joints. Plenty of U-joints but never a ball joint. I have a clunk when pulling out of my driveway but don't really notice it any other time.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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tHIS IS MY 3RD super duty before they were called heavy duty, this is the first one I have replaced ball joints on-I swore the clunk I heard was a disc brake or calipher not working. I took the wheels off the front while on jack stands and had my wife apply the brakes and then I pried on the calipher and entire hub with a big screw driver. I could see movement in the upper ball joint on both sides. When I attempted to shake or wiggle the front tires with the wheels still attached there was NO movement. Hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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to the guy who started this thread did you finish your ball joints I am interested as I am starting on mine Friday night. My primary concern is the large axle seals "3 inside diameter and a "4 outer diameter as messing one of them up it will cost over $30.00. I bought the last two Ford will have in for a few days. Someone mailed me pics of a tool that will work on the smaller seals with the diameter of Approx. "2 any help is appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 950
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From: Michigan
ball joints are load bearing, so to check then jack your truck up just enough to be able to slide a big pry bar under the tire. Lift up on the pry bar and listen for a clunk. You want to see of the ball joints have any movement so it might be eaiser to have someone help you.
The movement of the tire back and forth is to check to see if the wheel bearings are loose or bad.
The movement of the tire back and forth is to check to see if the wheel bearings are loose or bad.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Originally Posted by rlkern
to the guy who started this thread did you finish your ball joints I am interested as I am starting on mine Friday night. My primary concern is the large axle seals "3 inside diameter and a "4 outer diameter as messing one of them up it will cost over $30.00. I bought the last two Ford will have in for a few days. Someone mailed me pics of a tool that will work on the smaller seals with the diameter of Approx. "2 any help is appreciated.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
All - What do the trucks act like with the worn out joints / hubs? I suspect I have a bad joint but don't feel any play. At low speeds and on smooth hwy the truck feels fine but if you hit a large expansion joint at speed the truck starts shaking and feels awful and actually will jitter right off onto the shoulder. I see nothing obvious but plan to look at it this weekend. Any ideas what I should pay particular attention to? I swear the problem started when I installed my edelbrock shocks but since I put them on as soon as I got the truck I'm not really sure. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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what 04 superduty said and this was the easiest way for me to check them I jacked up the front and put it on jack stands. I then removed the tires. My wife started the truck and applied the brake and I pried on the calipher/disc brake area and watched for movement which was fairly easy to see. I could see the nut on the upper ball joint move slightly. I have been told the lowers go out first, I do not know if that is true. IN fairness to other posts when I tried this with the wheels on I could detect no movement, BUT I ONLY USED MY HANDS AND NO PRY TOOL.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
If they are bad you can probably grab the top and bottom of the tire and feel/see the play.
You have to lift on it kinda hard, so make sure the jackstand is secure.
Any top bottom play will be ball joints, side to side is tierod ends.
You have to lift on it kinda hard, so make sure the jackstand is secure.
Any top bottom play will be ball joints, side to side is tierod ends.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
99f350 I understand the tool you made for the FORD big axle seals now. I just did my ball joints and I used pipe and a flange but Iam gonna make a took like yours, those big seals are a pain. MY Moog came with 90 zerts, but I was concerned about clearance. Ialso had to replace a wheel bearing hub assembly. The new hub assembly did not come with hub bolts/studs. It did come with wheel studs, but not hub studs. We used the old hub studs and the only way to get them out was heat from a cutting torch and then I began to wonder if that was gonna work. Any info here appreciated. Are these studs available at Ford.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
You press them out with the ball joint press. Yes you can buy them at the dealer. the lower 90 deg has to come out and put the plug back in until you need to lube it. The u joints will hit. really shouldn't heat the stud just around it. I would replace them if they got red hot.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 322
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these were the threaded studs that go into the hub and then through the axle housing and are held there by 4 nuts. When it warms I want to replace these 4 studs and nuts. I was surprised the new hub did not come with them. This is the sealed wheel bearing hub unit. I assume ford sells these and I need to locate them in my area. Actually I believe the nuts were 22mm or 23mm.