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A rain gutter drains on the driveway an freezes, its too long of a run to the next one to block it. I've pounded 1" galvinized pipe under a drive before, and used a water jet device on 1". Four inch pipe sounds impossible, anyone have any ideas?
It can't be moved, it handles the recessed front entry and across the garage There is a downspout on each side of the drive way. The one I'm having a problem with I can't drain it into the entry way flower bed either, makes the basement damp. The gutter is "J" shaped and is very long. The problem causing down spot is where the bottom curved part of the "J" goes to the straight part, the other down spout is at the top "end" of the "J"
What material is driveway made from? Lowes sells a trench system with grates that can be put in a existing drive. They interlock to the desired length and have removable grates for cleaning. How wide do you have to go (width of drive) Could always use a tunneling bar and lots of elbow grease.
Glenn
go the the local rental place and rent a cut off saw with a diamond carbide blade, mark a 5 inch wide section on the drive where you want the pipe to go and cut the concrete (i assume the drive is concrete) with the saw, after you've cut it take a bdh (sledge hammer) and bust out the 5 inch. wide secton of concrete. take your trusty shovel and dig out the earth under there to get the pipe to sit "down hill" so the water will flow out, then get you some quikrete and a wheelbarrow and mix it up and re-pour the secton, you can use and old 2x4 to screte it then use a trowel or a wisk broom to put the proper finish, (smooth or rough). good luck
If it is too wide to "dig " under, post #5 is the way to go. Cut thru trenches in your concrete or asphalt drives, regardless of how well they are patched back, will always look bad . And when reselling a home, the appearance of the drive, is a important item to a prospective homebuyer. A fiberglas drain trench will not be near as objectionable to the eye, as a patched back trench. jmo