All, much as others have written, my 2000 PDS with 50k miles is experiencing the cold weather blues. (28 to 38 degrees here in Albuquerque, I know not that cold) I think my glow plugs or GPR have seen their better days and I need your help.
Some time ago, I read a posting on how to check the continuity of your glow plugs, I’ve done a search but can’t locate the thread, can someone please help with the “How To” on glow plug testing. Also, where is the GPR and how should this be tested??
Lastly, where should I purchase replacement glow plugs and a GPR? I know the non-dealer products are the best value. And much as others, if I plug the block heater in through the night the truck starts with out pause. Since I’m now stuck as work I don’t have the availability to plug it in. Your quickest help will be appreciated. My 18 year old crashed the other car yesterday is a freak NM slow storm… She’s OK but the car has seen its better days. Jeff in NM…OUT

 

For the short term (like to get home from work) try cycling the glow plugs 3 or four times and see if she'll light off. Also, don't assume the battery's are not the culprit...throw a set of jumper cables on it and see if it will fire.

 

Do to my past bad experiences and others on the forum I have read about with Autolite glow plugs in the PSD, I think that you would be wise to use the motorcraft beru glow plugs if you have to change them, I paid about $11.00 each for them from the local Ford Dealer. As far as the GP relay goes, on my '97 it is on the top of the engine under the plastic intake cover on the passenger side above the valve cover, unsure if it is there on a 2000.

And I agree, try to cycle the plugs a time or two. Turn the key to the on position, after the Wait To Start light goes out, leave the key on for about 1 minute 30 sec, then cut the key off. Now repeat the same procedure again, but after the 1 minute 30 sec wait, try to start the engine. Also, do a search on Glow Plug Testing and relay testing, I had problems about 6 weeks ago and found numerous threads on how to check and test them, If you can not find anything let me know and I will try to post the testing procedures I used.

good luck!!

 

Your voltmeter in the truck, or an external one across the battery can tell you quite a bit. When you first turn the key on, watch the voltmeter. You should hear a click (the GPR engaging), followed by the voltmeter dropping down a few volts. Leave the key on but don't crank it. After about 2 minutes, you should hear another click (the GPR dis-engaging) and now the volt meter should slowly start climbing up to around 12 volts again. Now, yurn off the key and repeat the procedure. This time though, turn over the engine after about 1 minute, before the GPR disengages. After you start the engine, the voltmeter should stay down for another minute (approximatly) and then jump up to around 13 volts with the alternator turning. That would be a good stating point. Post your results and we'll take it from there.

 

Thank you all for the information. I will try cycling the Key/GPR today. One thing I forgot to say in my first post is that the truck will shutter like its trying to start, but never catch and turn over. Last night after 45 min. of praying and sobbing (Well, the praying part is true) it started and ran great. It also billows white/gray smoke on the days it doesn’t start on the first try while I'm turning over the eng.. Again that you all for the support. Jeff in NM…OUT

 

Click here.

 

I'll bet your GPR is not carrying any current. Right behind the fuel filter housing on the right side of the engine. The two relays there, the forward, smaller one is the GPR. Get a standard incandescent test light and test for power at both terminals immediatly after turning on the ignition. Both large posts should glow the light bulb with equal brightness. You may also have some burned out glow plugs too, but I seriously doubt every one of them with only 50k on the truck.
An easy way to test the glow plugs is connect that same test light ground clamp to the positive post on the battery so that whenever the probe touches anything the light will glow. Now remove the large plug from the valve cover on the inner side of the valley and test the two larger connecters at each end of the plug. One each glow plug connector for each cylinder on each side. Never mind the smaller connectors they are for the injectors. Sorry for the fuzzy picture.
Also here is a thread about glow plug wiring on my truck with more pictures.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=278697

 

I just had the same EXACT problem you described. So I changed the glow plugs. (120000 miles and probably original) Man what a job!!! Two of the OEM Motorcraft plugs were not working. Tried to remove but one broke off leaving the heating probe in the engine. The other one just absolutely would not come out. After many frustrating hours I finally took it to the shop. They had to remove the head to get them out. Too much carbon build up on those two from not working. I did use the Autolites which may have been a mistake but they were half the price. Also I am going to replace them every 50K just to keep them in good working condition to prevent the buildup on the probe to avoid removing the heads. Anyway replaced the plugs and the next cold day it still did not start. So I replaced the relay and now it works great. So my suggestion is to try the relay first since it is easier to access. And it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and change the plugs also. Many threads on broken plugs in the head so it sounds like a very common problem.

Just my opinion...I'm NOT a mechanic...I'd go broke if that was my job...hate it...but have to do it...5 vehicles in the family...can't afford a shop!!!

 

You guys are the "Poop".... Thanks again... Jeff in NM...OUT

 

Get one from the local International dealer. Here's the P/N 1831646C1. Cost me $23.00. There are two relays behind and towards the passenger side of the fuel filter. The one closer to the cab is the GPR. Had similar problems as you. Changing out the GPR fixed me right up. Good luck.

 

I just completed a resistance test with a DVM of the driver and passenger side glow plugs. The driver side showed a higher resistance value of 2.4 to 2.6 ohms, the passenger side resistance was .4 to .6 ohms. All 8 glow plugs show values <6.0 so they should still all function. My next step is to purchase a new GPR from the International dealer this week, I will advise everyone on my progress with the GPR installed. Again I want to thank everyone who has provided input, help and thoughts. You are a great resource network. Jeff in NM…OUT (You guys are “Da Poop”)

 

2.4 - 2.6 ohms is too high (I think) Recommend taking a step back in your procedure and replacing the offending parts.

 

[QUOTE]The ohms value for any given pin (plug) should be between (.1) and ( 6) ohms. If you are getting a higher or open line (OL) reading you may have a bad glow plug. With higher values than 6 ohms or OL values you definitely have concern for opening up the valve cover/s and investigating further. [/QUOTE]

Kwikkorbead... The above paragraph is from a reply I received from “Quadzilla”. My truck is a 2000, so I hope all of the testing values are the same. Within the testing parameters >6.0 ohms shows a defective GP… But I really have no thoughts past the instructions posted in the reply. Please review the link “Quadzilla” posted and provide me with your thoughts… Jeff in NM…OUT

 

Just wanted to that everyone again for all of the help and insight.. I replaced the GPR yesterday and it started this morning without a problem.... MY glow plugs are showing higher resistance (2.4 to 2.6 Ohms) on the driver side so they may be starting to fatige. Again thanks to all....