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After months of trial and error with a 360 ( tubed the oil feed gallery to the valve train ) I still have trouble with engine oil and pressure getting into the cooling system . Now I am thinking of going to a 300 inline . For the reason that
I only need power up to the 3000 rpm range and normal highway rpm's are 2200-
2400 rpm's . This may have been asked but I havent stumbled across it yet but
does the engine mounts and bell housing pattern interchange ok ?
My truck is a 1976 F-150 4x4 . C-6 . Are the older 300 blocks better to work with
/ more meat for overbore ?
What about radiator and hose changeover ?
I know I could look for another 360 block but I might end up with what I have
now ,,,,,again .
Last edited by RUSTYTRUSTYF150; Jan 30, 2005 at 10:06 PM.
Man you wont be happy with your switch. 300 has alot of torque & pull power, however they suck for 4 by'in & highway. Check out my upgrades to my 300 and my friends 390 still leaves me in the dust. upgrades Clifford intake - $120, headers - $50 (? brand), holley 360 2v -$35, 360 hydralic cam - $130, New hydralic lifters -$30, New clutch kit $90 on 4 speed w/ granny 1st. (Awsome Tranny),New 2 1/2" exhuast to flow master mufflers $250. All to get about 215 ponies (172 stock) All the above have less than 500 miles on them.
If your serious, I have the parts above for sell. soon to be on ebay
I am actually in the proccess of switching from a 300 to a 360/390/410/428
in my 78 F150 4x4 short bed
FE's are easy to work on & to get parts for.
300 inline hard to find parts and hard to work on at times.
I've had the 300 for a few years now & all but pulling it sucks.
Well, it all depends. Yes, the older blocks allow more overbore. You can get .60 over on a older one, whereas the newer you dont want to go over .30. The most common upgrades are 1.overbore 2. 3-5 angle valve job 2. port and polished head 3. Offenhauser or clifford intake manifold 5. Either exhaust manifolds off an EFI 300 or headers 6. Isky, comp cams, or crane cams cam 7. upgraded lifters. This engine will last many miles, and is very easy to work on. Not to mention loads of low end torque. its a great setup, but the correct gearing is also important for decent milege, especially a tranny with no overdrive.
This may have been asked but I havent stumbled across it yet but
does the engine mounts and bell housing pattern interchange ok ?
No, they are two different engine families and nothing is a mix-n-match. I believe you can get the engine towers to work with the 6 motor mounts, but you will need a new tranny to bolt to the 6.
Well it sounds like I am stuck at the bellhousing attatchment as far as
hooking the c-6 to the 300 . I dont think the 300 would bother as for highway
driving ,,, only drive around here 50-55 mph at the most . Do pull a stock trailer
a few times a year . Maybe i can find a 391 block out of something . Thanks
for replys .
No, they are two different engine families and nothing is a mix-n-match. I believe you can get the engine towers to work with the 6 motor mounts, but you will need a new tranny to bolt to the 6.
--Mike
just the bell housing needs to be changed tranny stays the same
Well it sounds like I am stuck at the bellhousing attatchment as far as
hooking the c-6 to the 300 . I dont think the 300 would bother as for highway
driving ,,, only drive around here 50-55 mph at the most . Do pull a stock trailer
a few times a year . Maybe i can find a 391 block out of something . Thanks
for replys .
391? Now you are opening another can of worms, as that is an FT series engine with some big differences (front cover, mounts, crank snout size, exhaust, who knows what else) between it and the FE.
Is there something wrong with the block you have? Oiling issues are a "known" commodity, so some basic research should have that fixed. Oil in the coolant--gasket issue or is something cracked?
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