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Has anyone ever converted his or her Push-button 4x4 selector to the manual lever type? What’s involved? Love my “new” 93 EB, but would prefer the lever. I would have bought one like that, but could never find one equipped “my way”, that wasn’t ragged out. Would this be such a chore that its not worth considering? Thanks!
Of course, I've been wrong before - but I wouldn't have thought that any (major) fabrication would be involved. I figured from a production standpoint, the floor pans & transfer cases would be not different, just a different access cover (through the floor), and some solenoids, as opposed to the lever and linkage. Haven't had a chance to crawl under and look first hand in day light. I reckon I'll have to take a look. Anyone with a shop manual have any input?
Yeah I think I read somewhere about the floor already has the access. It was probably on fullsize that I read that. Probably on there is where you would find people who have done it. It doesnt seem like it would be a big deal.
It's not all that hard and there is no fabrication needed. The hole for the shifter is already there, you just have to remove a cover under the carpet. All you need to buy is the T-case w/ linkage, shifter, and manual hubs (if you have auto hubs still)
You don't need manual hubs to use a manual transfer case...I had auto hubs which came factory with my manual stick transfer. Auto's are crap though....
If your going to go through the process of switching to a manual T-case why would you stick with auto hubs? Technically you could still use them yes, but like you said they are crap!
I'm not sure where the bad rap came with auto hubs. I have 239,000 on mine and used them 30 minutes ago on a development site, finished my business, and put it back into 2WD, backed up about 5-10 feet and now am home. We have three trucks with over 180,000 miles and auto hubs here, all used daily. I maintain my drive train and have never had an issue. I do know it's pretty rank to have to get out and engage hubs in a foot of red Georgia clay and then after switching the indicator wait till they engage. I use 4X4 every day and unless you rag it, I see no reason to change. In casr you're wondering, I dropped off 25 2x10-12 YP, 50 2x4-16 SPF form boards, and three rolls of rewire for the development marquee foundation. My Bronco had auto hubs as well and I left it's current owner driving it on the same site. Still don't get the bad rap.
Tex
You don't need manual hubs to use a manual transfer case...I had auto hubs which came factory with my manual stick transfer. Auto's are crap though....
Correct. My 1990 XLT had auto hubs and a manual t-case. I am very glad about that! One of the first things that I did to the truck as swap the autos out for Superwinch manual hubs (which I have never had a problem with).
I'm not sure where the bad rap came with auto hubs.
I bought mine with 120k, and when I needed the 4WD, of course it didn't work. Now, after being a bit more knowledgeable, I can't say for sure whether the hubs worked or not when I bought it, but here's the story: A couple of weeks after I got mine, I took it to a Ford dealer to check it out and service it, assuming that they know how and what to do. They lubricated everything, and did some front end and brake work. That was like 3-4 years ago. Now, after seeing that my auto hubs were packed with grease, it's more than likely that they failed because of the excessive amount of grease. I know that it must've been either the dealership's service department (most likely), or whoever serviced that before. (it was a government vehicle)
Auto hubs may be fine if you take care of them, and that includes using them once in a while and correctly lubricating it. However, many people don't know this, and that leads to premature failure. But I think even with proper care, they are still not as robust as manual hubs.
ok the 2 big broncos link was what I though the best thing since sliced bread. I believe they were working on a 92 and I have a 93, I wouldnt think there would be much difference but when I was under my truck checking it out to see if I wanted to try this (I found a manual t case at the scrap yard) it seemes the auto t case was too far back on the drive train so the stick would be in the back seat
I dont get it
You have a linkage rod from the shifter to the actuator at the transfer case. They're all in back of the transmission and require linkage. If the case fits your transmission and the output shaft has the same u-joint saddle, and it's the same chord thickness, it would be a true bolt-in replacement. If not drive shaft modification is in order as well.