eec 636, 122 and 121
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Mountain Pass
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eec 636, 122 and 121
I got eec 636, 122 and 121 on 94 E150 5.8 EFI.
I guess 636 is for "Transmission fluid temperature (TFT) not at expected value. What does that mean and what can I do about it? Is there a Transmission fluid temperature sensor that I need to replace? if so where?
122 and 121 is for famous TPS, should I just replace it? what is the most easiest way to replace it? it's in E150 and much harder to work on than my F150. any advice appriciated.
I guess 636 is for "Transmission fluid temperature (TFT) not at expected value. What does that mean and what can I do about it? Is there a Transmission fluid temperature sensor that I need to replace? if so where?
122 and 121 is for famous TPS, should I just replace it? what is the most easiest way to replace it? it's in E150 and much harder to work on than my F150. any advice appriciated.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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If you ran the test with the vehicle cold, or if you just let it idle and warm up in parkl without driving the van prior to the test, then the code 636 is normal. You have to operate the trans enough to warm the trans fluid prior to telling the computer to run the self test.
You could try inspecting/probing the wiring to the TPS to see if one wire is cut or chafed. It looks like TPS sense or VREF is not making it to the sensor, or the sensor wiper has a high resistance at idle.
You could try inspecting/probing the wiring to the TPS to see if one wire is cut or chafed. It looks like TPS sense or VREF is not making it to the sensor, or the sensor wiper has a high resistance at idle.
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Mountain Pass
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fefarms, Thanks for a quick reply.
I didn't drive the van since I disconnected the battery last, I warmed up some by letting it sit on idle for about 10 mins. I guess 636 might just go away once I start to drive the van again.
I guess there is no easier way to replace the TPS than removing the Throttle body. just wanted to see if anyone knew of a better way.
I came to find out that TPS from Autozone with Wells brand is identical to Ford original part, even has ford logo inside of connector. e7tz-9b989-d retail $63.98, local dealer wanted $67.18 and Autozone is $28.99. Advanced auto wanted $35.99 but it was different from factory original. Maybe* Wells TPS is from reject pile of ford oem as oem spec can be very strict, some rejected parts can still be good enough for aftermarket. like Mitsubishi and Hyundai, same supplier can ship parts not quite good enough for Mitsubishi to Hyundai for same reason. I'd still like the parts from Autozone for the price and they look IDENTICAL.
I didn't drive the van since I disconnected the battery last, I warmed up some by letting it sit on idle for about 10 mins. I guess 636 might just go away once I start to drive the van again.
I guess there is no easier way to replace the TPS than removing the Throttle body. just wanted to see if anyone knew of a better way.
I came to find out that TPS from Autozone with Wells brand is identical to Ford original part, even has ford logo inside of connector. e7tz-9b989-d retail $63.98, local dealer wanted $67.18 and Autozone is $28.99. Advanced auto wanted $35.99 but it was different from factory original. Maybe* Wells TPS is from reject pile of ford oem as oem spec can be very strict, some rejected parts can still be good enough for aftermarket. like Mitsubishi and Hyundai, same supplier can ship parts not quite good enough for Mitsubishi to Hyundai for same reason. I'd still like the parts from Autozone for the price and they look IDENTICAL.
Last edited by 87f150xlt; Jan 25, 2005 at 02:13 PM.
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Mountain Pass
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I got TPS out and I didn't have to remove Throttle body to do it. I got an Offset screw driver set 947478 from Craftsman for 10 bucks. I had to move a wire conduit and moved the TPS connector for easier access. TPS actually worked pretty good when tested at Autozone, but I found a good amount of corrosion in all 3 connector terminals, also Autozone test uses paperclips to be inserted to terminals in connector so it's nt same as on vehicle. I'm sure I can give a good cleaning and reuse the TPS but I bought one from Autozone anyway.
I'm planning on cleaning the connectors and install new TPS tomorrow, Hope this takes care of the rough idle and stalling problem.
I'm planning on cleaning the connectors and install new TPS tomorrow, Hope this takes care of the rough idle and stalling problem.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Bulb grease will work just fine. I think the best stuff is "No-OX-ID A Special Electrical" but it is not avaiable retail. Any grease labeled for electrical use will work OK. Usual name is "contact grease" or "dielectric grease". It's main job is to prevent air and moisture from getting to the contacts and to stay "greasy", I.E. not dry out.
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oops - missed the part about cleaning. For cleaning I usually use a small stiff brush, or if its really bad, do some scraping with a small screw driver. The important part is to not damage or distort the contacts. If I need some liquid in the cleaning process to flush out the crud I use spray electrical cleaner. Sometimes called electric motor cleaner. Sometimes even WD40 as a flush. The electical cleaners dry faster however making the grease application go better.
If your contacts have a real bad case of the green cruddies you may not be able to save them.
If your contacts have a real bad case of the green cruddies you may not be able to save them.
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Mountain Pass
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I'll work on it when I get home. It didn't look corrosion ate so much out of the contacts but looked like plated surface is gone. I'll look around electrical lab around work to see if I can find any industrial grade grease as I work at one of a bigger automotive electrical components mfr.
I noticed the seal on male plug is not sealing, this is probably the primal cause of the corrosion. looks as if seal ID is too big or connector OD is too small, either way collected alot of dirt and water in male side of the connector.
I noticed the seal on male plug is not sealing, this is probably the primal cause of the corrosion. looks as if seal ID is too big or connector OD is too small, either way collected alot of dirt and water in male side of the connector.
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Mountain Pass
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New TPS has been installed and the van idles and runs almost as smooth as new. I can't even hear or feel engine running. I used industrial grade silicone grease on terminals and seal. I removed terminals from old TPS to clean male terminals in harness side of connector. Thanks for your help, now I got mild vibration at higher speed to deal with.
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For your apparent size mismatch just pack the connector with grease. You can also try a few wraps of tape to provide a dirt barrier. You might also inspect to see if heat shrink tube would work as a connector seal.
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