I have a Dana 60 semi that has a few problems:
(Truck is 1983 F250 2x4 w/ 8800 GVWR)

-3 left side and 2 right side broken wheel studs
-both drums seem fused in place (tried beating between the studs with a hammer, neither will even budge. Tried advancing the starwheel also)
-something wrong big-time with parking brake at the wheels
-pumkin appears to have a slow leak where it mates with the driveshaft

I kinda want to pick up a full float axle (easier maintenance, HD, bigger rear brakes, looks neat, more locker options). My question is would getting a full float axle (fron salvage) be comparative in cost to these repairs? Be kinda pointless to try to fix all this if I can get something I want and have those issues go away at the same time.

Will a F350 full float fit under the F250? Is there any difference between the rears under a 4x4 and a 2x4? ( I'd probably reuse existing u-bolts and leafs...I know the 4x4 has a wider leaf spring retaining bolt). I'm assuming that any full floater was made to handle at least the 8800 GVWR, and that it's a unbolt-rebolt affair to switch rear axles. Would I have to grab another Dana 60, or would a 10.25 fit with those same U-bolts? What model years are compatable?

Thanks in advance, I know I asked for a big chunk of info...

 

I really don't see much money involved in fixing the rear you have.

Invest in a can of penetrate oil. Squirt the cables and the brake drum center hub.

Take vise grips and clamp the parking brake cable about 1/2" before it enters the cable jacket. Take a hammer and hit on the side of the vise grips, driving the cable up in the jacket. Do this for both sides.

Make sure you loosen the star wheel as much as possible.

Take your hammer and hit the brake drum on the outside edge face of the drum. Not on the OD of the drum, but the outside face at the 12,3,6, and 9 o'clock positions. This should start to rock the drum and eventually break it loose.

Then you can buy new brake shoes, new parking brake cables and install new wheel studs.

If the seal on the pumpkin is damp, I wouldn't worry about it. Only if it drips.

 

Advanced starwheel by levering down (flathead of screwdriver moved from bottom to top). I advanced it this way until I could no longer turn the starwheel

Loosened parking brake "slack nut" until parking brake lines were slightly sagging. Attached vice grips to the driver's side rear parking brake cable about 1/2-1 inch from point of entry into cable sheath. Hammered on vice grips so that parking brake cable would be crammed into the drum for the drivers side. Cable movement was minimal, but there was some after awhile.

Immediatley set about hammering on the 12 3 6 and 9 positions with a steel flathead hammer on the driver's side rear drum. No drum movement rotationally or inward/outward.

Repeated all steps, same results

 

If it won't budge at all, it must still be stuck on the axle flange center. If you can pry on it, and it moves a little on the center part of the axle, but is kind-of springy then it must be stuck on the shoes, or there is a ridge on the drums catching on the shoes. Don't get discouraged. I think everybody who has worked on vehicles has run into this before.

I had a crazy idea one time, but never went through with it. They upgraded the inspection rules in my state, and the inspection guys had to start inspecting the rear brakes. At the time it was $10.00, and I had the thought it would be worth $10.00 to me to let them get the drum off, to tell me I had bad brakes.

 

The places I have asked about removing the drum said they'd charge me flat time and then charge me for the drum if they happened to brake it. To which I said no way (I can just see some guy out there with a hammer and chisel as the first thing they try... parts=money to them).

While we have those coupons for a $9.99 however-many point brake inspection (which should require drum removal), I can see them breaking the drum and still charging me for it. I may give it a try in the future though (thanks for the suggestion!) if I can't get that damn thing free

Here's a funny for ya: I did actually try getting it inspected to get a good list of what was broken. The dude gave up on the rear brake and failed me because my horn "wasn't loud enough" and I was missing lenses for the lights that light up my rear license plate. What a crock of crap! And after all that work getting him to "understand" why the air pump wasn't there....sheesh

 

An F-350 axle will fit under there, as long as you can find one that didn't have dual rear wheels. The semi-float axles are decent, as long as you don't overload them too much. You are probably better off fixing the immediate problems with the brakes, and finding an axle from a heavy F-250, fixing that up, and when you change out the front end, throw that one under it too.

Jared

 

Bit the bullet and went to a place that offers a free brake check. Took 2 mechanics 45 minuets to get the left drum off, and about 10 for the right. The left refused to come off...they had to beat on it with a huge hammer (I swore to hell they were going to break it and let em know it too). I felt so bad for all the work I was going to let them replace the studs, but their parts place screwed that up so I came home no cost paid (other than 3 hours waiting on parts that never came).

I made sure they put some anti-sieze on the inside of the drums before reinstallation

How tough is it to puts studs in without an impact wrench? I have one of those 4-way lugnut jobbies and an 18" breaker bar--that's it.

Also,the rear brakes are completely shot. New pads needed, all springs replaced, adjustment lever mechanism need replacing, shoe needs to be rebuilt as do the cylinders. Plus the differential leak may be faster than I previously thought. Still debating the axle swap--i'll have to price everything out before I know what's good and what isn't