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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Leaky Freeze Plug

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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 01:41 PM
  #1  
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From: Rockford, IL
Leaky Freeze Plug

Hey guys! Back in July I wrecked my 58. It has a 73 302 in it with a c4 tranny. Well anyway I finally got it put back together now one of the freeze plugs leaks. Any ideas how to fix it? I dont have a lot of money. I just got married. My wife is pretty cool though she loves my truck as much as I do. I'll try to post some pics. Black58
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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Glad you got it back up and running. It's probably corroded thru. Bad news but I'd drain it and replace all of them. Once one starts to leak its only a matter of time.......... Trouble is, its a lot easier with the engine on the garage floor. Good luck with and Merry Christmas!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 08:50 PM
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From: Shasta Lake, Ca.
If U can get to the freeze plug easy .. than there is a cheap and quick fix. but its is only temp.. Call ur local napa and tell them the Eng size and year and they can get U a tenk plug replacement for nr.. Abot 3 buck and 10 min to install.. but U back on the road fast.. but keep a close eye on the reast as to what mtflat say.. the other are most liklt about to go also... Happy motoring
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 11:41 AM
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Freeze plugs are pretty cheap and easy to change, as others have said getting at them is the issue:
First go to a parts house and buy the new ones, they should only be a few bucks apiece. (the used to be ~ a dollar, but it's been a LONG time since I bought any)
They will be cup or domed disc in shape depending on what was used on your motor.
Drain the block completely or be prepared for a coolant flood. Use a heavy old screwdriver or long slender cold chisel and hammer to punch a hole in the center of the old plug, working up to how hard you need to hit it to go thru, they are soft and corrosion may have made them pretty thin, so you don't want to go right thru and hit the block across the water jacket! Once you have punched a slot in it, use your tool to pry the old plug out. Clean the block of any residue or rust where the plug will seat in the block. Put a thin layer of a hardening sealer like form-a-gasket in the can on the seat and push in the new plug with the open side of the cup or the dome facing outward until it is sitting solidly on the seat, it should go in with finger pressure or a push on a wooden stick. Now to permanently lock it in, use a piece of 1/2" rod or a 1/2" socket extention as a punch give it a good solid punch in the center. You want to hit it hard enough to make a noticable dent in the center the size of the punch, don't be timid here! You're done! Now wasn't that easy?
Safety note!!!
Always wear eye protection, and never use a carpenter's hammer for hitting steel tools, always use a ball peen or hand maul which have a softer head meant to be used for hitting steel. A carpenter's hammer has a hardened face designed for driving nails only and will chip easily if you hit steel with it. The chip can penetrate most safety glasses!
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 12:54 PM
  #5  
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From: new jersey
I know some friends that installed expansion plugs in their blocks as a permenant part and had no problems, of coarse they may be just lucky you know some people really do have all the luck. however you decide to go, good luck !
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:01 PM
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Thanks guys. I really appreciate the advise. This web site is probably one of the coolest out there. I hope you all have a happy new year. Black58
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 04:40 PM
  #7  
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From: Spokane USA
Alternative freeze plugs type

One thought to consider if you do go the distance and replace all the plugs.... which is by far the best idea. Get ones made of brass. Sometimes they are called "marine" type, but virtually all rebuilder shops know about them, and a good parts outlet will be able to get them easily. The best engine builder we have in our area uses them exclusively. They are not much more in cost, but in the long run eliminate the problem of rusting through. If you find it necessary to do just the one for now, you can also get a type that is pushed in place and tightened with a wrench. It is an expansion style, and while quite a bit more costly per plug, they are brass, and for most situations, resolve the issue of having to remove the engine. One caution ..... don't get convinced by some over-zealous sales type to use radiator stop leak. I've seen guys do that, and then they figure one can is good, so two might be better. One friend of mine used three cans, plugged up his radiator, and the resulting overheating wiped out his engine. Pretty expensive fix for a leaky freeze plug. Kind of like replacing a leaky radiator cap by driving a new truck under your hand.

Merry Christmas

Bob in Spokane.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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From: Rockford, IL
Actually, as I'm sure you all know the engine compartment is huge. I've had both exhaust manifolds off recently so I think I might be able to do it with the engine still in. I hope. I'll definately go with the brass plugs. The problem is I have no garage or shop. My landlord was nice enough to let me park my truck in the driveway but now wants the drive for her daughter that lives upstairs. I'm sure they would let me use the drive again as long as it was just for the day. But it's been around 0 degrees here lately and I dont want to lay on the cold concrete to do it. As long as I dont let the truck warm up too much it doesn't leak. Maybe I'll get to it over the new year weekend. I heard it's supposed to get up to around fourty! I really appreciate all of your advise. This website is great. Black58
 
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