Problem starting 97 PSD
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Problem starting 97 PSD
I have a 97 PSD and in the middle of November, I noticed it was starting a little hard and would crank a little longer than usual. Well came pay day so I went to my mechanic friends house to verify what I thought, dead glow plugs. He checked the glow plugs and they were ok, but my glow plug relay was not working right, it showed hot on all three posts with the key out. So he replaced it and it seemed to do pretty good. At this time, I also had him check the alternator and he said that it was good, it was putting out 14 volts while running. Well today, about a weel later I started and drove my truck in the morning and this evening, it wont start. When I turn the key to on, the wait to start light comes on and when I go to start it, it cranks but wont turn. So I took the key out and turned it to on, the wait to start light comes on but now it wont crank, but the starter sounds like its trying. My friend thinks its the battery but they are only 3 months old Les Schwab brand with 900 CCA. Any suggestions? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Not when I try to start it, it does smoke a little when it actually starts butnot any excessive smoke, just the little white smoke that it always has when started cold. Its been about 30 degrees here in Walla Walla. What I am thinking is possibly the battery was drained to much while the GP relay was stuck open and junked my batteries.
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This evening it tried to turn over and it was very slow but wouldnt start. I took the key out and tried again and it doesnt do anything now, it just sits there after the wait to start light goes out. The starter is trying but no crank no nothing.
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Yeah, I borrowed my friends trickle charger and plan to charge it over night. I didnt pay attention to the RPM's so I dont know about that part. Im at work now and the truck is at home so I wont be able to get to it till tomorrow to try again. What would it mean if there is or is not RPM's going while starting??
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From: Western Slope, CO
No RPMs on the tach while cranking is a bad cam position sensor. This does not sound like your problem, but it's good to check everything to rule out possibilities. There should be about 200rpm or so as you crank it over. 'Course, if your batteries are dead, you won't get the full rpm out of your starter.
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Without fully charged batteries you won't get any reading on the tach (at least I didn't on mine) So I wouldn't go for the CPS right away even without the tach readings.
How did your mechanic friend check your glowplugs? Did he actually pull them out, apply power, and see if they glow? Or did he just ohm them out? I have heard stories on here of people ohming them and thought they had a good plug but when they actually took them out and bench tested them they were in fact bad.
Mike
How did your mechanic friend check your glowplugs? Did he actually pull them out, apply power, and see if they glow? Or did he just ohm them out? I have heard stories on here of people ohming them and thought they had a good plug but when they actually took them out and bench tested them they were in fact bad.
Mike
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1997 PSD 7.3L
hard to start when cold.
Assume it's glow plugs.
When turning on the key, glow plug light comes on, with accompaning click.
Once the engine has been warmed, when going to restart, glow plug light activates for a shorter duration, signaling the PCM is working as it monitores engine oil temp, etc to determine glow plug time on.
I've got the shop manuals and have glow plugs in hand.
Looking for lessons learned, things to watch out for when taking off the valve covers and replacing glow plugs.
Look forward to hearing what worked/didn't work when replacing glow plugs.
Q-1) Are the valve cover gaskets reusable? I priced them out at $90 apeice and sure hope they are the rubber ones that you can use over.
Thanks much for the advice.
Joe
hard to start when cold.
Assume it's glow plugs.
When turning on the key, glow plug light comes on, with accompaning click.
Once the engine has been warmed, when going to restart, glow plug light activates for a shorter duration, signaling the PCM is working as it monitores engine oil temp, etc to determine glow plug time on.
I've got the shop manuals and have glow plugs in hand.
Looking for lessons learned, things to watch out for when taking off the valve covers and replacing glow plugs.
Look forward to hearing what worked/didn't work when replacing glow plugs.
Q-1) Are the valve cover gaskets reusable? I priced them out at $90 apeice and sure hope they are the rubber ones that you can use over.
Thanks much for the advice.
Joe
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Well pretty sure its the starter. The glow plugs tested ok, replaced the GP relay, the batteries are fully charged and ok, the alternator is ok and the starter relay is ok. Gonna pull the starter tomorrow my day off and get it tested just to be sure but I think thats going to be it. Thanks for all the input and suggestions.
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Originally Posted by JStehly
1997 PSD 7.3L
hard to start when cold.
Assume it's glow plugs.
When turning on the key, glow plug light comes on, with accompaning click.
Once the engine has been warmed, when going to restart, glow plug light activates for a shorter duration, signaling the PCM is working as it monitores engine oil temp, etc to determine glow plug time on.
I've got the shop manuals and have glow plugs in hand.
Looking for lessons learned, things to watch out for when taking off the valve covers and replacing glow plugs.
Look forward to hearing what worked/didn't work when replacing glow plugs.
Q-1) Are the valve cover gaskets reusable? I priced them out at $90 apeice and sure hope they are the rubber ones that you can use over.
Thanks much for the advice.
Joe
hard to start when cold.
Assume it's glow plugs.
When turning on the key, glow plug light comes on, with accompaning click.
Once the engine has been warmed, when going to restart, glow plug light activates for a shorter duration, signaling the PCM is working as it monitores engine oil temp, etc to determine glow plug time on.
I've got the shop manuals and have glow plugs in hand.
Looking for lessons learned, things to watch out for when taking off the valve covers and replacing glow plugs.
Look forward to hearing what worked/didn't work when replacing glow plugs.
Q-1) Are the valve cover gaskets reusable? I priced them out at $90 apeice and sure hope they are the rubber ones that you can use over.
Thanks much for the advice.
Joe
1 a deepwell very thin walled 10mm socket!!!!(if it is thick it will hit your rocker arm/ pushrod and get stuck)
2 a little medicine dropper to suck the oil out of the recessed area on top of the glow plug so it doesn't run into your cylinder when you pull the plug.
3 dont take your gaskets off or remove the wiring and clip that plugs into your gasket.
4 disconnect the batteries and then turn on your key to drain residual power
other than that keep it clean and it is very easy to do. good luck
oooooooo a toque wrench that goes as low as 14 ft lbs
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Thanks much for the great gouge. How was the clearance for the valve cover and the firewall on the passenger side of the truck? I see only about half an inch clearance and hope I can slide the valve cover past that without removing that shiny high-temp insulation on the firewall.
Thanks for the thin socket info. I've a set of deepwell impact sockets and know now that they are too thick walled to work.
Appreciate the great advice!!
Fellow 7.3 admirer,
Joe
Thanks for the thin socket info. I've a set of deepwell impact sockets and know now that they are too thick walled to work.
Appreciate the great advice!!
Fellow 7.3 admirer,
Joe
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas Gulf Coast
The valve cover will clear the firewall fine, its getting to the one bolt thats up against the firewall on the passenger side thats difficult. As far as the oil in the recess around the GP, I used an air hose w/blower and covered it with a rag to keep it from blowing everywhere.
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Posts: 116
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From: Western Slope, CO
Just did the glow plugs on my rig two weeks ago as well, except I only needed to replace the #2 plug. I used a 1/4" rachet and deep socket and found no problems getting on the plug I needed plus the #4 plug. Bolts at the firewall end of the valve cover were tough; patience was all I had going for me there. I found no problems with disconnecting the wire harnesses from the valve cover gaskets and didn't bother disconnecting the batteries; and the valve gaskets are reusable. I wanted to double check the resistance on the new plug anyway once it was in place to ensure that was the problem. I used a paper shop towel and skinny screwdriver to mop up the oil around the plug. If you have problems, as I did, with the glow plug wanting to come out, you are going to need some penetrating oil and a pair of needlenose visegrips. Checkout this thread titled Glow plug difficutly. Good luck.