Problem starting 97 PSD
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
the way to get the valve cover off you gotta lift the firewall end up first then the front side of it to get it out. not to bad. that back bolt takes some work a shorty 13mm and a 3/8 in drive ratchet and a lot of ratcheting motions.
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
F350truck, rirwin, and wingit1x, thanks much for great advice and to direct me to other strings that discuss what to do when a glow plug breaks. I've tackled the drivers side glow plugs first as they are the easiest to get do and have finished them with no problems. I used a shop vac and necked down the hose to suck out the oil around the glow plug. Seemed to work pretty good. No kidding on needing a thin walled socket. I bought a "Kobalt" brand and it was still pretty tight on the rocker arm.
One thing that worked to speed things up in installing the new ones was to take a short section of automotive vacum hose and press it on the end of the new glow plug. That allowed me quickly hand tighten the new plugs. Well, easy half done and will start the other half tonight.
Thanks again for the insight!!
Joe
One thing that worked to speed things up in installing the new ones was to take a short section of automotive vacum hose and press it on the end of the new glow plug. That allowed me quickly hand tighten the new plugs. Well, easy half done and will start the other half tonight.
Thanks again for the insight!!
Joe
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Had to tell everyone I can. I was having the same problem with the hard start ( Temp in the 30's ). Over the weekend I replaced the Glow Plugs and the Relay ( There was a link to a page in one of these posts that was GREAT). 7 of the 8 Glow Plugs were bad. I couldn't believe it but the were. This morning it was 3 degrees F, let the plugs glow up and it started. Thanks to ALL the people that posted in this and many of the other threads that I read on Glow Plugs and for the Website that showed how to do it.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Just removed Driver side valve cover on a 97 yesterday. I do believe it's a 10mm bolt on the back of the cover near the firewall. Get a 10mm wobble and a long extension makes it a piece of cake. Without it, lot's of cuss words and a cramed hand.
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
F350truck, rirwin, and wingit1x, Thanks again. Finished the passenger side glow plug replacement up and truck fired up much better than before. Ohm check on the old glow plugs showed them all bad. (Truck previously a company owned vehicle and the 140K miles were "hard" ones.) Haven't really put it to the test yet, but already can see a real difference.
Thanks for all the great advice.
Next project is replacing the water pump, as it is dripping out of the drain hole on the underside. As before, anyone out there that has done this before and has some good gouge on making it go easier, please jump in. Any and all advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!!
Joe
Thanks for all the great advice.
Next project is replacing the water pump, as it is dripping out of the drain hole on the underside. As before, anyone out there that has done this before and has some good gouge on making it go easier, please jump in. Any and all advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!!
Joe
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Pretty sure that ALL of the valve covers bolts were 13mm. Actually used a 1/4 driver with a swivel on the tight ones. As far as putting the ones in....The trick with putting them on with a piece of tubing to get them started was great...
If I remeber right, the Water pump was pretty cut and dry. I DO remember needing NEW bolts for the thermostat. Old ones snapped off REALLY EASY....so be careful.
Good Luck!
and MERRY CHRISTMAS - ( I don't need to be politically correct and say happy holidays)!!!
If I remeber right, the Water pump was pretty cut and dry. I DO remember needing NEW bolts for the thermostat. Old ones snapped off REALLY EASY....so be careful.
Good Luck!
and MERRY CHRISTMAS - ( I don't need to be politically correct and say happy holidays)!!!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Roger that, 13 mm all around. I noticed a string mentioning a 10mm bolt, but assume it was just a typo. No harm no foul.
Thanks for gouge on the water pump. A parts store has borrowed me the wrenches needed to remove the fan. Was this process tough?
Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again,
Joe and his 7.3
Thanks for gouge on the water pump. A parts store has borrowed me the wrenches needed to remove the fan. Was this process tough?
Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again,
Joe and his 7.3
New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Afulton, And a Merry Christmas to you as well. Happy new year also!!
Luckly I didn't have any problems with removing and reinstalling the water pump. All that's left is a couple hoses, adding fluid and firing it up.
Ford shop manual says to use antifreeze additive along with the 50/50 mix.
Your thoughts??
I've been around diesels (tractors--I'm a farm boy) and for 40 years, we've never added anything but water/anti freeze. Assume I would be safe not needing an additive for my truck. Just like a second opinion here.
Next project is fuel filter and tranny check. Guess I want to look inside tranny pan to see amount of sludge and look for filings, etc. Also assume there's a screen/filter that I could change/replace. Then assume the tranny is good for another 10 years. Appreciate your opinion on that as well. Thanks much.
Anybody else out there that would like to share knowledge on my questions, please jump in. Great hearing from you all and getting some great gouge on things to do/not to do.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
7.3's are king.
V/R,
Joe
Luckly I didn't have any problems with removing and reinstalling the water pump. All that's left is a couple hoses, adding fluid and firing it up.
Ford shop manual says to use antifreeze additive along with the 50/50 mix.
Your thoughts??
I've been around diesels (tractors--I'm a farm boy) and for 40 years, we've never added anything but water/anti freeze. Assume I would be safe not needing an additive for my truck. Just like a second opinion here.
Next project is fuel filter and tranny check. Guess I want to look inside tranny pan to see amount of sludge and look for filings, etc. Also assume there's a screen/filter that I could change/replace. Then assume the tranny is good for another 10 years. Appreciate your opinion on that as well. Thanks much.
Anybody else out there that would like to share knowledge on my questions, please jump in. Great hearing from you all and getting some great gouge on things to do/not to do.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
7.3's are king.
V/R,
Joe
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
YES, you need the additive. Unlike your old low-rev tractors, these newer high-tech higher-rev diesels can suffer from cavitation - that's where tiny little bubbles form on the back sides of the cylinder walls from all the vibrations... then when they pop, they etch away a tiny bit of metal. It's a slow process, but if you go about 100K miles with no coolant additives, you'll end up with swiss cheese for cylinder walls and when one bursts through you'll hydro-lock the engine.
The Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) provide a sacrificial layer on the metal in the engine, so that gets worn away when the bubbles pop. You need to keep up the levels, as they deplete over time. You can get test strips to tell you what your levels are. If you overdo it and toss in way too much additive, then the extra coating junk will abrade your water pump seals, and having just done that I know you don't want to do *that* again!
Duncan
The Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) provide a sacrificial layer on the metal in the engine, so that gets worn away when the bubbles pop. You need to keep up the levels, as they deplete over time. You can get test strips to tell you what your levels are. If you overdo it and toss in way too much additive, then the extra coating junk will abrade your water pump seals, and having just done that I know you don't want to do *that* again!
Duncan
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ZombiePopper
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
14
Sep 24, 2014 05:37 PM
the
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
10
Aug 6, 2011 08:59 PM
kc 300EX
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
26
Feb 22, 2011 09:15 PM