some FE Questions

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Dec 1, 2004 | 06:51 PM

k85k03

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From: Dove Creek US

some FE Questions

I have three FE blocks, one a 352 and two 390's. on the 352 the wrist pin snapring came out and the wriste pin put a groove in the cylinder wall. its pretty deep and it made me wonder, just how far can you bore an FE block from stock without having heating problems. Also what does it take to go from a 352 or 390 to a 428? just some boreing and a crank? Thanks,
Kyle

Dec 1, 2004 | 07:23 PM

FORD352V8

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From: North Carolina

Youll have to have the block sonic checked, on the 352's the usually safe is .60 over. How deep is the groove in the wall? That will determine weather or not you can use it. But, if it is ruined dont panic, go down to the junkyard and proably within 15 minutes youll proably find a 360 block. Pay $20 or whatever for it and your good to go as long as it isnt cracked. The 360's are everywhere.

Dec 1, 2004 | 08:09 PM

rusty70f100

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From: Iowa

Keep in mind that the 360 starts out at 4.050", where the 352 starts out at 4". So you'll need to bore the 360 block .010" oversize and get .060" oversize 352 pistons.

Dec 1, 2004 | 10:17 PM

Bear 45/70

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From: Union, Washington

A 352 (4.00" bore) won't bore far enough to be a 428(4.13" bore. A 390 (4.05" bore) is posible if you change the crank, 352 is a 3.50" stroke and the 390 is a 3.78". A 428 has a 3.98 stroke by the way. oh yeah, if nothing else you can alway sleeve that block with the bad bore.

Dec 2, 2004 | 07:58 AM

FORD352V8

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From: North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bear 45/70

I forgot about that, yep you can I always have it sleeved.

Dec 2, 2004 | 05:25 PM

FFR428

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From: CT

Sleeves are about $100 per hole said and done. I'd think it would be maybe cheaper to find another block unless you know someone that can hook you up. The 390's would make a nice build and some can go .080 to 4.13. Not many but some and sonic checking will tell. This is not always the best way to do things either. Overheating can come from a block thats overbored to the limit with a core shift issue. Thin walls in other words. I'd just kiss the block to the next advised bore so you still have a build or two left in it depending on the bore it's at now. Add a 428 crank and go for the 410+ cu. If your on a budget the 428 crank is reasonable and can be found for around $200+ for a IU 428 crank. The IUB CJ cranks seem to go for a little more for some reason. They are all cast from the same nodular iron despite all the rumors. If you have some coin look into the Scat cranks and various stroker kits. If your smart and shop around you can build a nice engine pretty cheap. Just have a plan and know what your looking for when the time comes. G.

Dec 2, 2004 | 06:14 PM

rusty70f100

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From: Iowa

I agree with FFR. There is no reason to have a 428 bore. You can put CJ size valves in a standard 390 bore, so if it was me I'd just bore it the next oversize, probably .030", and add a 428 crank. You'll end up with a 416.