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Old Sep 3, 2002 | 10:32 AM
  #1  
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Wrist Pins

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Sep-02 AT 11:36 AM (EST)]Hi folks,

Well, now that I have a new cam, newly polished crank, and new ARP main bolts in my block, the next step is pistons, so I was reading about piston installation in my handy dandy Chilton's manual. It states that the wrist pins must be pressed in by a machine shop. I got to looking at mine, and the rods actually seem to free-float on the wrist pins, with a retaining ring on each end of the wrist pin to keep it from sliding out of the piston. Curiosity got the best of me, so I wound up removing the pistons from the rods. The rods seem to have a thin bearing pressed into them to accept the wrist pins, which allows the wrist pin to rotate inside the rod.

My question is this: Is this normal, considering it contradicts both my Chiltons and Haynes manuals? Is that really a bearing in the rods? Do pistons normally come with new wrist pins? Anything I need to be aware of when buying pistons for this set-up?

For what it's worth, my rods are C3AE-C, which I understand to be 63-65 427 high performance rods. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Bill

Edited to add that this is a 390.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2002 | 11:03 AM
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Wrist Pins

Some engines use a pressed fit pin and some use floaters, the FE uses floaters. One note here is that the retainers should have a direction to them, smooth rounded edge vs sharp edge, and only go in one way.

I'd dump the book and buy Steve Christs "How to rebuild big block fords", it's found on this site here and is < $20 I think.


As for pistons, I like the flat top 4 valve relief type with zero deck on the FE. Other issues are forged/non-forged, rings etc...

Either way, the book is a must.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2002 | 01:59 PM
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