I am trying to figure out what i am going to do here. I have two FE 390 engines, D3TE and a D4TE.

They were both running take outs.

I tore them both down. this is what i found:

One has been rebuild 1 or 2 times before and bored .060 over. Looks like it has had some block repairs due to previous engine failures. The engine wasn't running right when it came out and i found coolant in the oil. i didn't find any leaking intake or head gaskets. so i looked in the cylinder bores and there was 2-3 bores that appear to have hairline cracks. i am assuming this where the coolant was coming from. The coolant wiped out all the lead tin coatings on the bearings and i think this is why the engine wasn't running right.

the 2nd one is stock bore 4.050" from what i can tell it hasn't been rebuilt before. Even had the original ford cam bearings. There was a wrist pin clip that fell out and the wrist pin had been rubbing into the cylinder wall, about a 1/8" grooves. There is also a couple cylinder walls that have hair line cracks.

I ordered a spotcheck crack detecting kit to confirm these cracks. i guess what i am not sure of is how to tell if these cracks deem a block bad or leaking. on the 2nd block if there were no cracks i could bore this thing and make it a 428 with a sonic check. but if there is cracks i would have to sleeve 3 cylinders and keep it stock.

Other things i am not sure about, is where to get cylinder repair sleeves? I have access to a true bore boring machine, ( i just have to set it up and learn how to use it)

ughhh i just don't know where to do go from here...is there anyone out there still making a 390 FE cylinder block? i got burned here on two running take outs and i don't know where to go next. there is a local engine shop here that are selling remain long blocks for $1600. plus a core charge of 300 if you don't give them a core.

If i could salvage one of these engines by keeping the same bore sizing and sleeving 3 bores would it make sense. Especially if i can do the boring.

Can i build block off plates for the deck and water pump and pressurize the water jacket to check for leaks?

maybe someone can give me some insight on which direction to head.

 

<p>At .060&quot; over, those cylinders probably cracked just because it was bored over too much <img alt="Evil Grin" src="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/evilgrin0007.gif" style="height:19px; width:21px" title="Evil Grin" /></p><p>Sleeving is not for the faint-of-heart. Dry sleeves are tough to do, but then, so are wet sleeves. Either way, it's a lot of $'s for not much in return. And I don't think you're going to find either one of those blocks can go to a 428 bore unless you wet-sleeve every cylinder, and then what are you left with? A block that you're not sure of to begin with.</p><p>Usually, checking for leaks, you block off all the passages and apply vacuum with a vacuum pump, shut off the valve, and wait - if it leaks, the vacuum will drop off.</p><p>Not sure what else to say at this point, except find a good 360 block, and use that to make a decent 390.</p>

 

Thoughts:

-Get rid of the 428 idea. If you want a 428, get a 428 block, yes people have done it with 390 blocks, but unless you are willing to obtain a dozen blocks to find which one can survive that overbore, it isn't worth the effort (unless you just get incredibly lucky).

-Neither block is really worth the effort or money to repair

-Decent cores are out there (I've got 2 std bore, crack free blocks, both cost me $250 or less).

 

good points.


wow $250 for 2 good blocks how did you score that?


There are lots of 390 and 360 ford trucks for sale in my area. I am afraid of buying a complete truck and tearing it down to find the same problems. is there anyone out there making replacement 390 blocks?


These cracks that I am seeing I haven't magnafluxed or spotchecked them, but I can see them with a flash light and its enough to catch on a finger nail so I am pretty sure that is no good.


now if I do get a good block do I need to have the crank and cam bores aligned honed to fit my cam and crank or just use the cam and crank that comes with the block if they are good?

 

No I meant $250 for each block. that is pretty much the going rate for a clean, std bore crack free 390.

BBM, Sideoiler Garage, Robert Pond, and Shelby make 427 blocks..... dont' even bother looking at what they cost :P
No one makes 390 blocks.

where are you located? If near me, one of these blocks has your name on it.

Otherwise, ask in the Classified section of the FordFE forum, I'm sure someone can hook you up:
FordFE.com Classifieds

 

haha oh ok. well shoot I am in Washington state, thank you for the offer though! I will try the classifieds and keep looking around. There is two local engine remanufacturing shops here in Spokane, wa. they are both offering a 390 long block for around $1700 and a core charge of $300. I just came across a guy selling a complete 390 for $250 he says it was recently rebuilt... I am just not sure how reliable they are.

 

Ask him for the parts receipts. That may give you an idea of what rebuilt means to him. A gasket set and paint is not a rebuild.