urethane primer, what am I doing wrong?
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From: loveland, co.
urethane primer, what am I doing wrong?
I'm in the process of painting my '96 F250. The former owner had "customized" the passenger side using a pine tree and I'm finally getting it put back together. I've used urethane paint once before on a friends car and liked the results, so I thought I'd use it on my truck this time around. I'm using Dupont Nason, primer, paint, and sealer. Here's the problem. I've shot the primer in a couple spots and it takes forever to dry, like overnight. Then it's a bit difficult to sand until you get through the skin. I mixed it 4 parts primer to 1 part catylist, and a bit of reducer to thin it a bit. The paintshop guy said to use it straight, but it goes on way to dry. Any suggestions? The propoganda on the side of the can says it should be sandable in an hour and a half. Do I need more catylist? For what it's worth, I had the heat in my shop turned up to 75 degrees. Thanx! 
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
I'm assuming your are having problem with 2K urethane filler primer...
Don't mess with mixing ratios (assuming you know they are correct).
The first questions that comes to mind are the quality of the hardener and the metal temperature.
How old is your hardener?
If your vehicle has setting outside where the temp is 50 degrees, you need to allow enough time for the metal of the vehicle to warm to the 75 degree shop temp.
As far as having a hard skin to break through, that may just be the nature of the product you are using. I use Evercoat filler primer and it also has a tough outer skin. Once the skin is broken, it sands just like it should. I have also experience the same problem with polyester body fillers.
I'm assuming your are having problem with 2K urethane filler primer...
Don't mess with mixing ratios (assuming you know they are correct).
The first questions that comes to mind are the quality of the hardener and the metal temperature.
How old is your hardener?
If your vehicle has setting outside where the temp is 50 degrees, you need to allow enough time for the metal of the vehicle to warm to the 75 degree shop temp.
As far as having a hard skin to break through, that may just be the nature of the product you are using. I use Evercoat filler primer and it also has a tough outer skin. Once the skin is broken, it sands just like it should. I have also experience the same problem with polyester body fillers.
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From: loveland, co.
Yes, it is their 2k primer. The truck has been sitting inside the whole time so the metal is room tempature. The primer and hardner all came from the paintshop last week, so it's not old. Maybe that's the way it suppose to be. I just don't get the drying time. What a pain!
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Originally Posted by Frankenstang57
The primer and hardner all came from the paintshop last week, so it's not old.
If your hardener is liquid and not milky looking, it's probably fresh. If that's the case, then you're probably right. That's the way it's suppose to be. Myself, I always figure an overnight drying of any 2K I spray and I plan my work day around it.
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From: loveland, co.
The paintshop did shake up the primer for me. It looked pretty consistant. The hardener is clear as well. Must be the way it's suppose to be. Too bad too, I bought an entire gallon. I picked up another brand of primer yesterday to speed things up a bit. How long can I expect for the sealer coat to dry? I'm just priming the areas where I did work, then going over the whole thing with sealer then the color coat.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Your sealer (which I assume is epoxy) will depend on your product and activator. The brand I use (EP series by R-M) has a recoat time of 24 hours (with a minimum wait time of 45 minutes). That means I can apply my basecoat anywhere from 45 minutes to 24 hours, after I have applied the sealer. Personally, I like to apply the sealer, wait 45 minutes and apply the basecoat. Less chance of something landing in the sealer. You should have some p-sheets you got from the vendor. If not, pick up a copy.
What type of sealer are you using? I might have a web link where you can get that info.
Your sealer (which I assume is epoxy) will depend on your product and activator. The brand I use (EP series by R-M) has a recoat time of 24 hours (with a minimum wait time of 45 minutes). That means I can apply my basecoat anywhere from 45 minutes to 24 hours, after I have applied the sealer. Personally, I like to apply the sealer, wait 45 minutes and apply the basecoat. Less chance of something landing in the sealer. You should have some p-sheets you got from the vendor. If not, pick up a copy.
What type of sealer are you using? I might have a web link where you can get that info.
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From: loveland, co.
Unfortunately I didn't get the product sheets. My paint guy said he'd throw some in but when I picked up the paint, one of the kids in the back room must of forgot. I was on Dupont's site yesterday but didn't find anything. I'm not sure what the sealer is, but he did tell me it was best to shoot the color within 24hr. I'm pretty sure it's Dupont of some sort. He pretty much sold me the particular product line. I'm hoping to finish out the body work tonight after work and get it primed. Then get the finish sanding done in the am, roll it outside, wash it, clean the shop and let it dry overnight. Looks like Monday will be the big day. Good thing is I'm not painting the bed so that makes it a little easier right now. I should have some pix up next week sometime.
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From: northern Ky
Originally Posted by Aekisu
Well, since they aren't dated, we have to assume it's new stock. I remember the time I purchased a new can of hardener. When I got it home, it was easy to confirm I had indeed purchased hardener. The entire can had hardened into a solid lump.
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From: loveland, co.
D'OH! I am sooo stupid sometime! I was unloading all the boxes of stuff from the shop into my cabinets today after cleaning up the shop a bit. It turns out I had 2 type of catalyst! One for the color coat, and one for you guessed it, the primer! I mixed it up 4-1 and had to thin it a bit and it worked! It was dry to the touch in about 15 minutes. I take back all the bad stuff it said about the 2k. Thanx for all of the help!
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