Fuel Filter bracket leaking????
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
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From: Alabama Gulf Coast
I think you misunderstood me, Canuck. I wasn't saying there would be more resistance in any particular place you test the wire, just that my splicing, then soldering in, specific test/adjustment wires was my way of simplifying the test/adjust procedure. A little more work, but now I can hook up my DVOM immediately to the correct wires and get my readings as quick as I turn on the ignition.
After experimenting with probing the FIPL wires with the DVOM leads by taking the silicone grommet out of the connector, I didn't like the trying to hold the lead's probe against the naked wire inside the connector while trying to move the FIPL just a little bit, then drop the test lead, grab the torx bit driver and tighten the screws, all the while trying to keep the blasted FIPL from moving in the process.
Along with compromising the insulation of the wire, the pin method is hit or miss. If you miss the wire, you've got to stab it again, further compromising the insulation.
Say, you know to use a fuel additive which is specifically for diesel and DOES NOT have alcohol in it, don't you? Don't mean to trod on your knowledge base, just asking. R.A.
After experimenting with probing the FIPL wires with the DVOM leads by taking the silicone grommet out of the connector, I didn't like the trying to hold the lead's probe against the naked wire inside the connector while trying to move the FIPL just a little bit, then drop the test lead, grab the torx bit driver and tighten the screws, all the while trying to keep the blasted FIPL from moving in the process.
Along with compromising the insulation of the wire, the pin method is hit or miss. If you miss the wire, you've got to stab it again, further compromising the insulation.
Say, you know to use a fuel additive which is specifically for diesel and DOES NOT have alcohol in it, don't you? Don't mean to trod on your knowledge base, just asking. R.A.
Last edited by dieselzen; Dec 8, 2004 at 10:29 PM.
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No, I was comenting on PLC saying"You need the signal as close to source.
" I thought that you could solder in a reading wire somewere else like closer to the battery for setting and still get an acurate reading.
No problem, thank you for all the help as well as the other great poeple here. I am as green as it comes with diesel. Yes I did get an achohol free additive, and yes it was for diesel.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
" I thought that you could solder in a reading wire somewere else like closer to the battery for setting and still get an acurate reading.
No problem, thank you for all the help as well as the other great poeple here. I am as green as it comes with diesel. Yes I did get an achohol free additive, and yes it was for diesel.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Last edited by Canuck Safeman; Dec 8, 2004 at 10:58 PM.
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Installed the heater today. Found the International number in the Ford bag, called the local INT dealer and the same heater is $130 , so Ford just ripped me off for $50.
I will post the INT number holefully this weekend so those that search this in the future can save $50.
Had a Bi**h of a time getting it going again though. Ever tried to bleed the air out of a fuel system by your self!!! How the hell do you press the Schrader valve and crank the engine at the same time and pump the pedal???
You use a long 1/8 - 3/16" wire that has a U bend in the end so that you can pull from inside the cab at the same time you crank and press the pedal!!
Worked great!
The leak at least stopped and I did notice a little easier shifting on my way home from work today.
I tried to set the IPFL but was not able to get a proper reading as the engine was stone cold. Will try another day.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
I will post the INT number holefully this weekend so those that search this in the future can save $50.
Had a Bi**h of a time getting it going again though. Ever tried to bleed the air out of a fuel system by your self!!! How the hell do you press the Schrader valve and crank the engine at the same time and pump the pedal???
You use a long 1/8 - 3/16" wire that has a U bend in the end so that you can pull from inside the cab at the same time you crank and press the pedal!!
Worked great!
The leak at least stopped and I did notice a little easier shifting on my way home from work today.
I tried to set the IPFL but was not able to get a proper reading as the engine was stone cold. Will try another day.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
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