Fuel Filter bracket leaking????
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
From: Alabama Gulf Coast
Canuck,
Glad to hear the 0-ring job went well.
No, it is not normal for the fuel to bleed down in one night.
Yes, each injector has two orings underneath the plastic cap which the return lines attach to.
Check the edges of the return lines for cracking, and non-flexible hardness. If you find this on any lines, you really ought to get an "injector installation kit" which will give you new 0-rings, new caps, and a length of return line, and new line clamps,enough to do the whole return line system. Good luck! R.A.
Glad to hear the 0-ring job went well.
No, it is not normal for the fuel to bleed down in one night.
Yes, each injector has two orings underneath the plastic cap which the return lines attach to.
Check the edges of the return lines for cracking, and non-flexible hardness. If you find this on any lines, you really ought to get an "injector installation kit" which will give you new 0-rings, new caps, and a length of return line, and new line clamps,enough to do the whole return line system. Good luck! R.A.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
From: Alabama Gulf Coast
Canuck,
Check out:
"http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm"
You'll have to type in the url on your browser prompt as clicking a blue link will take you to a FTE sponsor page who doesn't even carry injector installation kits.
One other thing I forgot, included in the kit will be 8 copper washers which go in the injector hole before you re-install the injector. Make sure you get the old washer out of the hole if it does not come out on the tip of the injector when you pull it. You can not re-use old copper washers.
Also, when messing around with the injectors take care not to bend or knock off the pintle on the firing end of the injector or get dirt or grease in the fuel inlet end of the injector. R.A.
Check out:
"http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm"
You'll have to type in the url on your browser prompt as clicking a blue link will take you to a FTE sponsor page who doesn't even carry injector installation kits.
One other thing I forgot, included in the kit will be 8 copper washers which go in the injector hole before you re-install the injector. Make sure you get the old washer out of the hole if it does not come out on the tip of the injector when you pull it. You can not re-use old copper washers.
Also, when messing around with the injectors take care not to bend or knock off the pintle on the firing end of the injector or get dirt or grease in the fuel inlet end of the injector. R.A.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Just noticed today that the o ring is leaking again!!!!
So next week i am going to pull it all out again.
Is there any particular type of o ring i should get?
What material should it be made of?
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
So next week i am going to pull it all out again.
Is there any particular type of o ring i should get?
What material should it be made of?
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
From: Alabama Gulf Coast
hmmm,
That's not good. My new 0-ring is doing fine. I did notice there seemed to be a small amount of leakage around the power pin coming up through the plastic of the heater but there wasn't enough pressure for the fuel to push past the sealing boot with the +power wire installed. Maybe the cold up in Canada is causing the 0-ring to shrink a bit more than it does where I'm at (I'm in considerably warmer climes).
You might try putting a small amount of blue, or orange, RTV on the installed 0-ring, and press it into the header. Then let it cure overnight before allowing fuel to touch it.
When I first started messing with the 0-ring, I noticed the PO had put a small amount of orange RTV around the 0-ring but it had become so cracked the RTV had no chance. In my interim repair I used blue RTV fairly liberalllyand had no problems whatsoever with leakage for the 6 months it was in place til I had time to redo the job with just the 0-ring.
I think the material of all black 0-rings is Nitrile, isn't it? Maybe there's a better size of 0-ring than the #80 I suggested, but it's gonna be fun experimenting with other sizes. Good Luck!
That's not good. My new 0-ring is doing fine. I did notice there seemed to be a small amount of leakage around the power pin coming up through the plastic of the heater but there wasn't enough pressure for the fuel to push past the sealing boot with the +power wire installed. Maybe the cold up in Canada is causing the 0-ring to shrink a bit more than it does where I'm at (I'm in considerably warmer climes).
You might try putting a small amount of blue, or orange, RTV on the installed 0-ring, and press it into the header. Then let it cure overnight before allowing fuel to touch it.
When I first started messing with the 0-ring, I noticed the PO had put a small amount of orange RTV around the 0-ring but it had become so cracked the RTV had no chance. In my interim repair I used blue RTV fairly liberalllyand had no problems whatsoever with leakage for the 6 months it was in place til I had time to redo the job with just the 0-ring.
I think the material of all black 0-rings is Nitrile, isn't it? Maybe there's a better size of 0-ring than the #80 I suggested, but it's gonna be fun experimenting with other sizes. Good Luck!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Canuck phone around ........<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=10 border=1><TBODY><TR><TD>7.3 Fuel heater o-ring</TD><TD>E8TZ-9K342-A</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
If you can get the oring specs from a dealer then go to a store that handle hydraulics repairs or quality orings.
To test the heater put it in a plastic bag in the freezer, after a couple hours get a test light, ground the heater body and touch 12v test lamp probe on the electrical barb should get a light. You could do a continuity test to with an ohm meter too. Internal thermostat turns on the heater at 32*f .
If you can get the oring specs from a dealer then go to a store that handle hydraulics repairs or quality orings.
To test the heater put it in a plastic bag in the freezer, after a couple hours get a test light, ground the heater body and touch 12v test lamp probe on the electrical barb should get a light. You could do a continuity test to with an ohm meter too. Internal thermostat turns on the heater at 32*f .
Last edited by PLC7.3; Dec 5, 2004 at 08:10 PM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Just pulled off the dog house and air filter. Found that it is now leaking around the wire terminal and thru the heater not the o ring. I called the local Ford dealer and the heater assembly is $180 Can. Ouch.
Does any one know of a place that has then cheaper???
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Does any one know of a place that has then cheaper???
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Last edited by Canuck Safeman; Dec 7, 2004 at 04:58 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
From: newfoundland canada
Internal thermostat turns on the heater at 32*f .[/QUOTE]
So thats what turns it on!! Every wireing diag i have seen shows power to the heater all the time..I was aware that it didnt heat untill it was below 32,but alway wondered why if the power was to it how come it wasnt always on,and what it read the temp from.stupid brain never thought about an internal thermo.Good info.
So thats what turns it on!! Every wireing diag i have seen shows power to the heater all the time..I was aware that it didnt heat untill it was below 32,but alway wondered why if the power was to it how come it wasnt always on,and what it read the temp from.stupid brain never thought about an internal thermo.Good info.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Have a new fuel heater coming in tomorrow from Edmonton, so that should help the fuel let down. But $180 ouch!!
Am going to set the IPFL after I install it and get it going.
Question is where does the wire go from the plug on the side? Can you probe it someware else to test the volts which is easier to get at?
There is also a tire type air valve on top of the air cleaner could I hook up a hose to it and have an easy place to sqirt WD-40 to start if help is needed.
Is WD-40 OK to use I know that Either is a NO-NO.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Am going to set the IPFL after I install it and get it going.
Question is where does the wire go from the plug on the side? Can you probe it someware else to test the volts which is easier to get at?
There is also a tire type air valve on top of the air cleaner could I hook up a hose to it and have an easy place to sqirt WD-40 to start if help is needed.
Is WD-40 OK to use I know that Either is a NO-NO.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
The wire on the side is for the "restricted filter light" when ever there is a vacuum in the filter housing it will come on. The IP will pull enough fuel/vacuum to operate the light if the lift pump quits and/or the filter is plugged.
The tire valve is for bleeding air from the filter housing, spraying wd 40 in there would be like Peeing upwind....... as there is 4-6 psi of fuel comes out if the valve core is removed.
If you must use WD, spray it in the intake when cranking, do not try to flood it.....plug in the block heater and you probably won't need WD.
The tire valve is for bleeding air from the filter housing, spraying wd 40 in there would be like Peeing upwind....... as there is 4-6 psi of fuel comes out if the valve core is removed.
If you must use WD, spray it in the intake when cranking, do not try to flood it.....plug in the block heater and you probably won't need WD.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
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No, I am talking about the wire to set the IPFL to set the 1.05-1.0 volts It goes somewere from the electrical plug on the side of the IPFL, instead of use a paper clip.
Just a thought?
I am not talking about the Schrader valve but there is a similar one on top of the air cleaner???
What is that for?
Could you use it for hooking up a hose and sqirt WD-40 in there for help, instead of taking off the dog house and air cleaner?
Canuck safeman
Just a thought?
I am not talking about the Schrader valve but there is a similar one on top of the air cleaner???
What is that for?
Could you use it for hooking up a hose and sqirt WD-40 in there for help, instead of taking off the dog house and air cleaner?
Canuck safeman
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Sorry I miss understood.........the FIPL wire eventually goes to the PCM via the engine connector at the LH fender. You need the signal as close to source.
The thing on the air cleaner was for a vacuum guage I believe..
.....unsure never looked at it for that use.
The thing on the air cleaner was for a vacuum guage I believe..
.....unsure never looked at it for that use.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
From: Alabama Gulf Coast
Canuck,
I agree. The FIPL is a pain to adjust by DVOM and maintain it's adjusted placement while tightening the screws back up.
My thoughts on this problem led me to splice in 1 foot lengths of wire on each of the three FIPL wires specifically for hooking my DVOM to, by alligator clips, when testing the sensor or making adjustments. (I soldered the wires in so the readings would always be trustworthy.)
You could also put a pin in the wire to hook up the dvom to but this destroys the insulation and makes the wire vulnerable to corrosion.
PLC's right about the block heater. I'd think it would be a must where you're at.
Have you tried a fuel additive? I pay around $22 a year on additive so the expense is not too bad. I use Power Service and my engine fires right up. Plus I'm lubing the IP and the fuel is guaranteed against gelling. R.A.
R.A.
I agree. The FIPL is a pain to adjust by DVOM and maintain it's adjusted placement while tightening the screws back up.
My thoughts on this problem led me to splice in 1 foot lengths of wire on each of the three FIPL wires specifically for hooking my DVOM to, by alligator clips, when testing the sensor or making adjustments. (I soldered the wires in so the readings would always be trustworthy.)
You could also put a pin in the wire to hook up the dvom to but this destroys the insulation and makes the wire vulnerable to corrosion.
PLC's right about the block heater. I'd think it would be a must where you're at.
Have you tried a fuel additive? I pay around $22 a year on additive so the expense is not too bad. I use Power Service and my engine fires right up. Plus I'm lubing the IP and the fuel is guaranteed against gelling. R.A.
R.A.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Yes I am using my blockheater every night and some mornings it fires right up without any pumping of the pedal. And other times no go. I hope the heater will stop some of the leak down of the fuel because it is only -10 to -20 celcius right now(0-10 F?)
When it gets to -40 look out!!!
My understanding that DC power has no line loss? IF that is the case you would get the same reading at each end of the wire.
Yes I have been adding a fuel additive.
I just bought a new one today and can't remember the name.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman
When it gets to -40 look out!!!
My understanding that DC power has no line loss? IF that is the case you would get the same reading at each end of the wire.
Yes I have been adding a fuel additive.
I just bought a new one today and can't remember the name.
Thanks
Canuck Safeman