I noticed some fuel in a puddle today under my 89 E350 7.3.
Pulled the air cleaner and saw that the valley had fuel in it. Then noticed that when it is running there is fuel leaking out of a cable fiting on top of the fuel filter bracket. any fixes or just replace the fuel filter bracket assembly?
Thanks
Big Al

 

Never heard of a cable fitting on the fuel filter bracket.. If you are referring cable as a fuel line, you can replace them by using "fuel" resistant line. I'd suggest looking really close to see where the fuel is really coming from. It is probably running from somewhere else.

 

Sorry I described it wrong.

There is a Blue wire on top of the Fuel bracket that has a black boot on it. It snaps on to a white plastic piece. The fuel is leaking around the plastic piece.

 

sounds like maybe the fuel heater?if so you probably need to replace the heater assembly.

 

?
is it something stock?

 

Canuck,
The fuel is leaking out of the fuel heater in the top of the fuel filter header. I had this problem several months ago, and as luck would have it, got around to a permanent fix today with a 30 cent 0-ring from ACE hardware. Don't bother going to Ford as they've discontinued the stock 0-ring and will only sell you a $130.00 heater assembly. The part # on the 0-ring I installed from ACE was D35714 or a #80 size 0-ring.

A temp. fix to get me to the store (for several months) was a little blue RTV around the old 0-ring, allowing the RTV to harden (24 hrs.) in place within the header before being immersed in fuel.

To install the new 0-ring, you'll need to drain and remove the filter and pull the header off the engine. Once you've got the filter off the header, you'll see a solid brass hollow tube with a thread for the filter. Use a large crescent to unscrew and remove the brass tube. Once the tube is gone, you just have to firmly press the electric connector on the top and the assembly will pop out. Be careful about dirt as you don't want anything going to the pump and/or injectors. R.A.

 

OK I will try that. The heater is it the White plastic thing the plug gos on to?
What do you mean by pull the header off the engine?
Can this be done with the bracket attached to the block or should I remove the assembly by disconnecting the lines?

Canuck

 

One more question? I am having a tough time starting the vehicle in the morning have to crank for 30 secs 3 times. Is this because of the fuel leak that I may be getting leak down? Therefore loosing my pressure and having to build it back up before it will start?
Thanks for the help
Canuck

 

Canuck,
I think it'd be much easier to pull the fuel filter "bracket" (header) off of the engine. Of course, I have a van, and there's not much room for doing anything in the engine compartment.
To pull the bracket, you just need to remove the 1/2" nuts and washers from the bracket to intake manifold mount and unscrew the lift pump to bracket fuel line (should be 3/4") connector, and the bracket to IP fuel line connector (should be 5/8"). Also the return line from the bracket to #2 injector.
Then pull the wires off the water in fuel sensor (on bottom of fuel filter, the clogged fuel filter sensor (on the filter to IP fuel line), and the fuel heater (on the top of the bracket)
Both the fuel heater wire and the clogged fuel filter wire on my van are blue but they have different end connectors so there should be no mistaking them when you hook them back up. The water in fuel wire is black on my van.
As for the truck not starting, yes the bad 0-ring could be allowing the vacuum in the fuel lines to bleed down. Could also be the return lines. If your return lines show cracks around the edges, it's time to replace them.
Also check the glowplug system and maybe consider an additive for the fuel.

R.A.

 

its definately the reason for hard start. any fuel leak at all is BAD news. that stupis fuel heater thing i snothin but junk, i used one of those rubber boat plugs that you stick in there and tighten up with a wrench. that has been about 4 years ago and the rubber looks like it is about to melt, not leaking yet, but i think its about to start again. i put a lot of silicon on it and tightened the **** out of the rubber lug. the hole is oval shaed and you can't just get one of those that have the sring loaded thingy on it. also, to further insure that it didn't come out i put a piece of bailing wire on it real tight to make sure it didn't fall out. thats just how i fixed mine. dieselzen has a good idea too (that is if the plastic thingy isn't all cracked and broken like mine was) but kee us updated.

 

Diezel Zen you day clogged water in fuel sensor?

I have noticed that that light has never come on and I have run out of fuel twice in the last month?

The light does not come on on turning the key as well.

I assume that the light is burnt out. I pulled the dash panel and looks like the light box has no lights to replace only a complete unit.

I will try to fix it on Tuesday, and post results.

Once I pull off the filter and get the fitting off does the heater just push through the top or is there a screw holding it in? Should I buy a new heater. I do live in Canada and get -40 weather.
Do the heaters work well?
Do they help with fuel milage because of warmer fuel for vaporizing?
How do I test it.

Thanks
Canuck

 

Canuck,

"Diezel Zen you day clogged water in fuel sensor?"

Sorry bud, but I don't know what that means.

As far as the indicator and warning lights coming on when you turn on the ignition, mine haven't worked since I got the vehicle. The only one that lights up is the is the "wait to start" lamp. Have never probed too deeply into getting these lamps to work again as I do regular maintenance every 6 months which has always prevented problems before they occur.

Right, you remove the filter, then you use a crescent wrench (a large one) to unscrew and remove the brass, hollow tube which the filter connects to. Then firmly push on the plastic electrical connector from the top of bracket and the whole heater assembly (including elec. connector) will drop into your hand. There is nothing besides the brass, hollow tube holding the heater assembly inside the bracket.

Should I buy a new heater

I certainly wouldn't buy a new heater until I knew the old one didn't work. Yikes, $130 bucks! Considering the temps. you get, it sure couldn't hurt having a working heater. I'd fix the 0-ring first and make sure you're getting 12 volts (or whatever voltage) to the connector at the end of the heater wire. Then you can plug it back in, start the engine and see if the top of the bracket begins to get warm.

As far as bench testing the heater, your guess is as good as mine. I'd think connecting 12 volts to elec. connector and grounding the metal case part of the heater would activate it. But who knows, maybe the voltage is stepped down for the heater and 12 volts would be enough to burn it out.

Regarding whether the heater works well, or improves mileage. I don't know.

R.A.

 

Sorry it should of said

You say clogged fuel filter sensor. Where is the light for it?
Canuck

 

Canuck,

I have a 1990 van so the instrument panel is different from the F series. The clogged fuel filter lamp (officially known as the Fuel Filter Restriction Warning Light) is located, for my vehicle, in the warning lamp module along with the "wait to start" lamp and others. It is denoted in the warning lamp module by the words "Fuel Filter". R.A.

 

So I took off the fuel filter bracket and undid the threaded part for the filter and the heater just fell out. Sure enough the o ring was dried up. Bought a new one and replaced it and reinstalled everything. Was very easy!!! But still having some starting problems with leak down I think. I did notice that the area around a couple of injectors I am not sure where that is coming from yet. I am going to check to see if the injector might be loose and tighten it.
Do the injectors have any o rings on them?
Would a diesel usually leak down normally over night.

Thanks
Canuck Safeman