Need help identifying Bushing - see pics!
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee, FL
Need help identifying Bushing - see pics!
Hey All,
Can anyone help me identify the bushing in the pics below? Even better, where I can get a replacement. It looks like something I can fix myself fairly simply.
1995 5.0 XLT E4OD
3" Body LIft, 33" BFG All Terrain
Pictures were taken just behind the front drivers side tire.
THANK YOU
Can anyone help me identify the bushing in the pics below? Even better, where I can get a replacement. It looks like something I can fix myself fairly simply.
1995 5.0 XLT E4OD
3" Body LIft, 33" BFG All Terrain
Pictures were taken just behind the front drivers side tire.
THANK YOU
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis, MN
This is called a radius arm bushing, sometimes called a strut arm bushing. You can get them from many sources, Autozone, Ford, etc. I replaced mine with polyurethane parts from Energy Suspension.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Actually f1001978, that WAS a radius arm bushing! The polyurethane version from energy suspension comes highly recommended. The stock version is rubber and will do just what that one did eventually. MOOG also makes a polyurethane version that allows for some caster adjustment (about 2.5 degrees either way) if you ever have alignment issues.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
If you are gonna be under the front end for a while replacing the raduis arm bushings, might as well take a look at the othe bushings under the front end just to be certain there are no more problem points. There are two axle pivot bushings. One at the inboard end of each half of the front axle housing where the axle housing mounts to the frame. Check tierod ends and balljoints as well. All of these items contribute to the stability and handling of the truck.
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New User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16
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I just replaced the passenger side on My 96. The bracket that the Raduis arm bolts to is riveted to the frame at the factory. A previous owner removed the rivets and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. This makes replacing the bushing very easy. You just remove the bracket from the frame, and the nut that holds the arm to the bracket remove and replace the bushings and spacer and reinstall. There should be 4 bolts/rivets holding the bracket to the frame.
My Drivers side is still riveted. I am going to pick up some grade 8 bolts and replace it as well.
Bronco rides so much better. No slop in the steering and no pulling to one side when breaking.
I got new bushings at Ford. Both sides and spacers were $40.
My Drivers side is still riveted. I am going to pick up some grade 8 bolts and replace it as well.
Bronco rides so much better. No slop in the steering and no pulling to one side when breaking.
I got new bushings at Ford. Both sides and spacers were $40.
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Richfield, Utah
I assume you are going to do both sides. On my 96, the heat shield on the passenger's side did not get put back on (had it done at a shop) and within a month the new poly was starting to melt. The heat shield protects it from the cat and exhaust. I ended up getting one at the dealership, popped it in myself. Less than 10 bucks.
The shop that did the work did not know anything about a heat shield on the radius bushing, but the dealership computer showed one.
Rich
The shop that did the work did not know anything about a heat shield on the radius bushing, but the dealership computer showed one.
Rich
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Richfield, Utah
I got the work done in trade, sorry I cant give you a price. They screwed up on a diagnosis on my Honda and cost me quite a bit of money, so they are doing repairs free or discounted for a while!
They used a torch to cut to rivets off and then put grade 8 bolts in. When I found the heat shield was missing, I replaced it myself, only took about 20 min to pull the bolts and drop the bracket. I'd do it again in a heart beat, probably take less time than changing the spark plugs.
I did have to use a come-a-long to pull the front axle forward a little to get the bolt holes lined up again. The only jacking I did was to raise and hold the radius arm in place. Just laid on my back to do the work, and I dont have a lift. I think the big nut is a 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 and I don't remember the torque, I think 120 ft/lb. I found the info by doing a search on this forum. I am sure you can do it.
Rich
They used a torch to cut to rivets off and then put grade 8 bolts in. When I found the heat shield was missing, I replaced it myself, only took about 20 min to pull the bolts and drop the bracket. I'd do it again in a heart beat, probably take less time than changing the spark plugs.
I did have to use a come-a-long to pull the front axle forward a little to get the bolt holes lined up again. The only jacking I did was to raise and hold the radius arm in place. Just laid on my back to do the work, and I dont have a lift. I think the big nut is a 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 and I don't remember the torque, I think 120 ft/lb. I found the info by doing a search on this forum. I am sure you can do it.
Rich
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Richfield, Utah
Also most shops wont cut the rivets off unless you ask. The will just use a come-a-long on the front axle to pull it forward until the threads of the arm clear the bracket. i didnt want them putting that kind of stress on my front end, so i requested they use the cut and bolt method, which they had never done, but it turned out nice. I even replaced the brackets a few months ago because they were starting to rust.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,388
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From: SE Texas
Yikes, that's horrible! Good thing you noticed that. I used a hand-held grinder to remove the heads from the rivets, then drilled a small hole thru the rivet and hit it with a punch and hammer to pop it out. Takes about 3-4 hours per side that way, and you have to watch the fuel lines on the driver's-side frame rail. You might check with your local muffler shop, some will torch off the rivets and replace them with Grade-8 bolts, then you can easily replace the bushings. I also have Daystar poly's instead of the junky rubber ones.
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