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Definetly start with a straight exhaust, something with as little restriction as possible. The PSD's sound real nice with no muffler, or a cat if you dare cut that out too . look into an aftermarket downpipe too
Next start with an open elemant air cleaner, the stock ones suck. they say that by doin the CCV mod you can open your turbo intake up by 20%. I did mine at the same time as the air cleaner and i noticed quite a difference in low end power and it really starts to whistle at anything above 14 psi.
i would do all these before any type of a programer or chip, gauges are a must too before any programer also, not gunna get any horsepower out of them but you can monitor everything.
can I use a manual boost controller on my 02 f250 or do I have to get a chip?
and then what first modifications do you recomend for my truck? like what makes the biggest difference in horsepower early on?
You can put a manual boost controller on it, but it's pretty much a waste of time. Unlike a turbocharged gas engine, the diesel needs more fuel to make more power.
Instead of adding the controller you can simply unplug the wastegate actuator and cap the pressure line. You'll make a little more peak boost and the bottom end will be a little snappier, but it won't add any horsepower..for that you need a chip or programmer.
Before adding the chip take the advice already given in this post.....especially about the gauges.
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
Turboguy.
I have a 97 so I dont know exactly how the wastegate worksas mine doesnt have one, but i can tell you about the ccv mod.
The CrankCase Vent is routed into to intake tube right before the turbo inlet. This is used to vent the crankcase of gasses and pressure built up inside of it while running, it gives off alot of oil mist, and when run into the intake all that oil mist is routed through the intercooler, causing it to possibly clog up and causing your intake boots to get an oily build up around them. By routing the CCV out to the open air instead of your intake you will avoid this. and by taking out the portion of the intake tube that it is routed into and replacing it with PVC or exhaust piping you can open up your turbo intake by 20%.
All you need is about 20 feet of 3/4 heater hose, three hose clamps, and one 3/4 pipe nipple will work. Route the heater hose under the truck, away from drive shafts and exhaust. on the drivers valve cover you will see a little square box with the ccv goin up into the intake. take out the two phillips headed screws, make sure to save the 2 O-rings under it, turn it around so it faces the rear of the truck, put back on, be sure to either plug the hole in the intake or replace the whole piece with PVC, then take the pipe nipple, put it into the 90 degree elbow on back of the ccv, attach the heater hose. simple as that, takes about half an hour.
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
whats the ccv mod?
The wastegate mod won't add that much boost, not enough that the PCM can't provide enough fuel. By removing the line to the wastgate, you just prevent it from being opened at a certain psi, and it will stay shut longer keeping the exhaust spinning the turbo, providing more boost. I tested it a little bit, running my truck in 3rd gear at 2500rpm, with the line both removed and hooked up, I gained about 2-3 psi with the line removed compared to it hooked to the wastegate. That was just cruising down the road, I'm sure it varies on acceleration. Every little bit helps!
any one know what sized exhaust piping is necessary to replace the stock intake pipe? does it need any bends in it?
Well if your exhaust pipe is connected to your intake pipe, then you are bypassing the turbo, and the motor, and that is bad for optimium power...
Seriously though, if you are asking about the intake tube, the 02's come with a 4" intake tube, and could see some benefit by replacing it with a non-corugagted piece. However for relatively non carzy use(meaning less than 400hp) I would just leave it alone. There are several brands of quality intakes out there such as fords AIS, AFE, Tymar just to name a few. The quickest and cheapest method that several of us have done is to go to napa and buy a 6637 filter for $35, which will fit in place of your old airbox, and the stock intake tube will clamp right to it, albeit with a larger clamp.
To expand on what farmboy was saying, in diesels it takes fuel to make boost. From the factory, the boost and fuel are pretty well matched with the preset wastegate setting, meaning you will not see much boost increase, 2-3 psi, by disconnecting the wastegate. And with no chip, it will not hurt anything. With a chip or programmer is where the wastegate bypass really comes into play. With substantially more fuel afforded by a programmer I have seen in excess of 30psi of boost, althought this is NOT recommended as the stock turbo is rated for 25psi. But once you get over about 20-21psi, there are other mods needed to keep the computer from defueling to protect itself....and the learning curve begins
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
Let me try a different approach. With your Mitsubishi, you control the amount of boost with your throttle plate. Less throttle means less air intake, means less boost. A diesel takes in 100% of the cylinder's air capacity on every stroke, and the only thing that controls the amount of boost you make is the amount of fuel you inject. The only way to make more boost is to inject more fuel.
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
The wastegate operates on manifold pressure. At about 5 psi the wastegate starts to open. So if your stock system injects enough fuel to produce 25 psi boost, but the wastegate starts bleeding off pressure at 5 psi, you can only get to about 17. By unplugging the wastegate and capping off the pressure line you are allowing the turbo to use more of the available drive pressure = more boost. You haven't added anything, but it feels stronger because you are better utilizing what is already there.