manual boost controller?/ good first mods
#1
#2
Definetly start with a straight exhaust, something with as little restriction as possible. The PSD's sound real nice with no muffler, or a cat if you dare cut that out too . look into an aftermarket downpipe too
Next start with an open elemant air cleaner, the stock ones suck. they say that by doin the CCV mod you can open your turbo intake up by 20%. I did mine at the same time as the air cleaner and i noticed quite a difference in low end power and it really starts to whistle at anything above 14 psi.
i would do all these before any type of a programer or chip, gauges are a must too before any programer also, not gunna get any horsepower out of them but you can monitor everything.
Diesel rod
Next start with an open elemant air cleaner, the stock ones suck. they say that by doin the CCV mod you can open your turbo intake up by 20%. I did mine at the same time as the air cleaner and i noticed quite a difference in low end power and it really starts to whistle at anything above 14 psi.
i would do all these before any type of a programer or chip, gauges are a must too before any programer also, not gunna get any horsepower out of them but you can monitor everything.
Diesel rod
#3
Originally Posted by turboguy
can I use a manual boost controller on my 02 f250 or do I have to get a chip?
and then what first modifications do you recomend for my truck? like what makes the biggest difference in horsepower early on?
and then what first modifications do you recomend for my truck? like what makes the biggest difference in horsepower early on?
Instead of adding the controller you can simply unplug the wastegate actuator and cap the pressure line. You'll make a little more peak boost and the bottom end will be a little snappier, but it won't add any horsepower..for that you need a chip or programmer.
Before adding the chip take the advice already given in this post.....especially about the gauges.
#4
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
whats the ccv mod?
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
whats the ccv mod?
#5
Turboguy.
I have a 97 so I dont know exactly how the wastegate worksas mine doesnt have one, but i can tell you about the ccv mod.
The CrankCase Vent is routed into to intake tube right before the turbo inlet. This is used to vent the crankcase of gasses and pressure built up inside of it while running, it gives off alot of oil mist, and when run into the intake all that oil mist is routed through the intercooler, causing it to possibly clog up and causing your intake boots to get an oily build up around them. By routing the CCV out to the open air instead of your intake you will avoid this. and by taking out the portion of the intake tube that it is routed into and replacing it with PVC or exhaust piping you can open up your turbo intake by 20%.
All you need is about 20 feet of 3/4 heater hose, three hose clamps, and one 3/4 pipe nipple will work. Route the heater hose under the truck, away from drive shafts and exhaust. on the drivers valve cover you will see a little square box with the ccv goin up into the intake. take out the two phillips headed screws, make sure to save the 2 O-rings under it, turn it around so it faces the rear of the truck, put back on, be sure to either plug the hole in the intake or replace the whole piece with PVC, then take the pipe nipple, put it into the 90 degree elbow on back of the ccv, attach the heater hose. simple as that, takes about half an hour.
Diesel rod
I have a 97 so I dont know exactly how the wastegate worksas mine doesnt have one, but i can tell you about the ccv mod.
The CrankCase Vent is routed into to intake tube right before the turbo inlet. This is used to vent the crankcase of gasses and pressure built up inside of it while running, it gives off alot of oil mist, and when run into the intake all that oil mist is routed through the intercooler, causing it to possibly clog up and causing your intake boots to get an oily build up around them. By routing the CCV out to the open air instead of your intake you will avoid this. and by taking out the portion of the intake tube that it is routed into and replacing it with PVC or exhaust piping you can open up your turbo intake by 20%.
All you need is about 20 feet of 3/4 heater hose, three hose clamps, and one 3/4 pipe nipple will work. Route the heater hose under the truck, away from drive shafts and exhaust. on the drivers valve cover you will see a little square box with the ccv goin up into the intake. take out the two phillips headed screws, make sure to save the 2 O-rings under it, turn it around so it faces the rear of the truck, put back on, be sure to either plug the hole in the intake or replace the whole piece with PVC, then take the pipe nipple, put it into the 90 degree elbow on back of the ccv, attach the heater hose. simple as that, takes about half an hour.
Diesel rod
#6
Originally Posted by turboguy
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
whats the ccv mod?
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
whats the ccv mod?
#7
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#8
any one know what sized exhaust piping is necessary to replace the stock intake pipe? does it need any bends in it?
Seriously though, if you are asking about the intake tube, the 02's come with a 4" intake tube, and could see some benefit by replacing it with a non-corugagted piece. However for relatively non carzy use(meaning less than 400hp) I would just leave it alone. There are several brands of quality intakes out there such as fords AIS, AFE, Tymar just to name a few. The quickest and cheapest method that several of us have done is to go to napa and buy a 6637 filter for $35, which will fit in place of your old airbox, and the stock intake tube will clamp right to it, albeit with a larger clamp.
#9
To expand on what farmboy was saying, in diesels it takes fuel to make boost. From the factory, the boost and fuel are pretty well matched with the preset wastegate setting, meaning you will not see much boost increase, 2-3 psi, by disconnecting the wastegate. And with no chip, it will not hurt anything. With a chip or programmer is where the wastegate bypass really comes into play. With substantially more fuel afforded by a programmer I have seen in excess of 30psi of boost, althought this is NOT recommended as the stock turbo is rated for 25psi. But once you get over about 20-21psi, there are other mods needed to keep the computer from defueling to protect itself....and the learning curve begins
#10
gas engines need more feul when you upgrade boost as well... or at least that was how it was on my DSM>
if I just unplug the wastgate and cap it the truck will have more low end? is that because the wastegate is running off of atmospheric pressure? how on earth does that work?
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johnreuel.grundage
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-28-2014 02:00 PM