I often see rusty Aerostars on the road. Usually along the rocker pannel. As soon as I see the rust I say that is a '91 or earlier model. We pull up and see the squared dashboard module, which confirms our suspicion. I have never seen a '92 or newer (rounded dash module) with rust. What gives? Did Ford make a major redesign in the body treatment for '92? (92 also was the year Ford added a tranny cooler to remedy a tranny overheating problem they had been having.)

 

Don't know for sure what year it became standard, but it was for 1988. My 88 3.0L automatic has one that was not part of the tow packege or 2000lb payload package. It is listed on the window sticker as standard eqipment for all 1988 Aerostars with 3.0L automatics.
I see alot of rusty Aerostars in the midwest salt belt too (Iowa). Mine has remained rust free because Im on top of any stone chips or body damage and keep the drain holes on the rocker panels and door bottoms clear. My white Aerostar still looks like new except for a few stone chips on the front plastic hood and a small scratch on the tailgate which I touched up with paint.

 

I have a 92 3.0 Aerostar and I can attest to having body rust and paint bubbling along the bottom of the panels. So its not an issue with the model year.

 

Living in Sacramento, California, my '87 Aerostar XLT is solid as the day it was built, BUT growing up in NE Ohio, I know what salt can do. It is extremely important to flush the underside of your Aerostar. Besides the usual wheelwells (front and rear) stick a hose up into the frame drains on the front. It is located directly behind the front wheels near the jack lift points. I'm amazed at all the areas you'll see water running from all the knooks and crannies of the undercarriage. It works even better with the van raised in the front ie: on ramps. What is really important for rust belt areas of the US, is keeping the doorskins clean in areas that hold and trap moisture. A clear coat of POR-15 rust treatment on exposed areas will do wonders as well. The key, however, is keeping the Aerostars as clean as possible during the winter. Call me a fanatic, but I pay as much attention to my Aerostar's undercarriage as part of normal upkeep, yes, that's me waxing the aluminum driveshaft...(just kidding). I was in Ohio not long ago, and was stunned at seeing some rusty Aerostars as to what I'm used to seeing in Calif. Also, I did see some solid and clean older Aerostars, which shows what some TLC can accomplish.

 

As I live in the saltiest area of the country, (east Lake Ontario snow belt) I have spent years studying how corrosion occurs and coming up with ways to slow it. The rocker rust you refer to is caused by the accumulation of salt laden road sand that finds its way into the rocker box area through the body supports. My 93's rockers were half full when I bought it last year. (the frame rails and any other torque boxes with openings will pick up the sand too) There is an opening between the each body support and the rocker box inside panel. The front of each support has openings that catch sand thrown up from the front wheels. (My supports were half full too) Once the rocker drains become plugged, (which doesn't take long here) accumulation begins. (and it is always wet sand) Fortunately, the rocker box inside panel has several rubber plugs that can be removed for cleaning/flushing. Ugly as they are, low hanging mud flaps (within a couple of inches of the ground) stop 95% of the sand from collecting. The spray borne salt will however still accumulate to some degree on the outside surfaces, so cleaning and flushing is still very important.

 

turbobill, I agree with your accessment of the situation completely! Proper fitting mud guards, etc. are important because they direct the salt spray and water down and around body components. If you ever noticed a Aerostar in the rain,with mud flaps, the critical areas are hit more with a mist (for lack of a better word) than a direct stream of water kicked up by the tires which over time will weaken and scratch the paint. Once you have bare metal nicks, then salt, well it doesn't take a surgeon to figure out what is next! My Dad still swears by the homemade remedy from the 50's which says to wash a vehicle with a couple capfulls of kerosene in fresh water. The petreloeum base of the kerosene is carried by the water, and coats areas of drain channels, etc, and puts a protective coating down in areas you can't reach normally, or with waxing. I agree with installing mud guards, I have a pair of plain solid black ones on the front of my Aerostar even in Calif. With the plastic rear bumper, I feel the rear is adequately protected...Ed

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 02-Jul-00 AT 02:32 AM (EST)[/font][p]Great tip on the kerosene/water flush, though I remove the plugs and after clearing out the door and rocker panels, use a WD/40 fog in them. Yes it does drip for awhile but I leave it in the street for the day then keep newspaper under it for the next few in the garage. I do most of what you guys are doing and, though I don't use mud guards, do keep a close eye on the rocker panels and lower under body and so far since Nov 1987 my 88 white Aerostar cargo van is rust free and looks like new. Time and a little effort is all it takes to keep any car looking great in the salt belt even though I seldom wash it in the winter. Lazyness and road salt are what ruin most cars/trucks wouldn't you all agree? I also treat all rubber door gaskets with silicon spray two or three times a year and they are all in perfect condition too. I guess that's why we are the types who hang out on this BBS.
Mark Paar, Des Moines, Iowa

 

Well I must confess that all I do with the wife's '92 Aerostar is have the undercarriage flush at the local car wash a few times a year. no rust yet. But I believe it was undercoated. My '95 F150 is not undercoated and is not rusting, but does collect dirt inside and above the wheel well lip. I try to hose it out frequently.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 03-Jul-00 AT 10:49 AM (EST)[/font][p]Just curious. How tall are you? I'm 6' 3" Maybe a short guy by your standards. Ha! The Aerostar is a very comfortable fit for me. Somthing I can't say about the Astro/Safari and the main reason I went with the Aerostar. I'm not really a Ford person and have owned many makes over the years.
Never really had a lemon.
Mark

 

Mark: The Aerostar fits me pretty well also, though I just bashed my knee on the dash getting in yesterday (a rare occurance). I actually am not that tall--about 6'1.5", but I got the name Tall Paul at work when they hired another Paul in the same office. This Paul was very short (so short that the Army was planning to have him go down into N. Vietnameese tunnels during the war--he didn't because half his knee was blown off by a mine before he was in the army 6 months). So the boss said we'll have to call you (Me) Tall Paul and him Small Paul. We actually don't, but I used the name when I came on this site.

 

I forgot to mention that I have used new motor oil over the years inside doors, fenders, quarters, torque boxes, rockers and other areas. (surfaces too) I have sprayed it in, squirted it in, rubbed it on directly or poured it in. Not pretty initially, but does wonders. My current solution however is to spend as much time in Florida as possible during the winter.

 

Recent pic's of my van. Almost 13yrs old and still rust free, with a bit of effort.

http://www.geocities.com/markp_50310/88aerostar0700.jpg

 

TallPaul, I was just re-reading your post. I am against rustproofing new cars or trucks (You said your F-150 was not rustproofed) for several reasons. I think rustproofing, once it ages, actually promotes rust once it cracks it holds in road salt, sand, dirt, etc. When I lived in Ohio, I can remember pulling away old rustproofing and seeing rust, or rust dust. Sometimes the metal could be saved, sometimes it was swiss cheese city. I think it's better to see potential problem areas before they develop, rustproofing hides a lot of problems until it is too late. Cars and Trucks, are built much better today than say in the 70's, when sheetmetal standards were lower, and rustproofing seemed like the right thing to do. Anyway, I would not rustproof a new van today. The tip of spraying new motor oil in door drains, pickup beds, ect, is good. Like you, I constantly keep the wheelwells of my Aerostar clean. Not long ago, I saw a '95 Aerostar, detailed on a Ford dealership's lot, feeling under the rear wheelwell lip, it was caked with mud and grime, the lower lip was impacted with road tar and gravel. Gees! Definately, not up to my standards, I thought they must think Armor-alled tires = a clean vehicle! Anyway, just another 2 cent opinion on my part. Mark, loved the pics of your white Aerostar, a very nice van! Ed...