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Last Sat I had my F250 engine cut out for no reason at a traffic light ! I re-started ok then drove for 10 mins or so and then same thing at idle at a stop sign. I took truck home 15 min away and stopped driving it in case it stalled at speed in traffic !!
I took it to dealer today and requested they put in a new cam position sensor to see if that was the prob, which they did. On the test drive I went on after fitting ..at about 45 mins driving .... going along at 35 mph it stalled again ..the motor stopped and all dash lights were on (as in ign on but not running) at about 3 secs (and trying to pull up with no power steering) it started running again and lights went off. I drove back to dealership about 15 mins away and it didnt do it again.
The pcm diagnostic pc was put on before replacement of cam sensor looking for codes ..no luck ..all clear.
I'm leaving for a family holiday towing a trailer-home this weekend (well I was !!!) The dealer is starting to check wiring harnesses and pins in connectors.
Truck is 2002 model 7.3 with 16,000 miles .....
Can anyone shed any light on the potential problem so I can suggest it to the dealer ??
Thanks !
BTW The cam sensor here in Australia is $540 about $380 US.
I sounds like you might have a chaffed wire or a bad connector. You might want to do a wiggle test on the wiring. Did the dealer do a scan on the computer for codes?
The dealer scanned for codes before replacement of the cam sensor. After it did it again checking for a code was not done but they will possibly do it today.
They did say they were going to start checking wiring harnesses so I suppose thats a positive step !!
I have a 2000 F-250 SCrew 7.3 PS with 86,000 miles and recently had a similar problem. Had it towed to the Ford dealer and they ran the computer for codes. It ended up being the ignition switch in the steering column that has a mechanical kill switch that went out. It would start, run for a short time and then kill the engine, instrument lights still on. On one occasion, the "Check Engine" light came on, however that only happened once. They replaced the ignition mechanical kill switch inside the column and wrote it up under the power stroke 100k mile warranty.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm relaying them to the dealer and they are willing to listen. I think we are at the stage where we might start at batteries and work our way through !
I did talk to another dealerships service manager who chased this problem for 3 weeks and booked 40 mechanic hrs ....in the end it was a bit of brass swarf in one of the terminals shorting a pin every now and then ... That would be a rare one I hope !!
I checked the invoice copy last night and pulled the part numbers that they replaced, just in case it helps in your diagnosis. The parts replaced were the following:
FMC F81Z 9D930 AB Wire ASY-FU-CHG Qty 2
FMC F81Z 6584 AA GASKET VALVE COVER Qty 2
They ran a total of 12 tests over two days before they figured it out. I believe that the Gasket was replaced because they puled the valve covers during the testing. The Wire assembly was the actual component replaced that fixed the issue.