Okay, I just spent hours reading this thread. I just bought a '04 PSD, it runs great, not a hickup one. My question is, will this EGR dissconnect help me out. I've read alot of horror stories about the 6.0. I pull a 12K camper with this, I pulled it to N.C. from Louisville, Ky, went thru 3 tanks of diesel. Trip was about 850 miles. I thought that was respectable. The truck was purchased used, obviously, it came with the K&N filter, and open exhaust system. I average 20 mpg on the hiway and 15 in town. By the way I am running WVO and Jet-A mix, 50-50. Costs me 0$.... Okay back to the forum, I know jack about diesels, im learning, would this egr help with the noise . thanks...

Dave..

 

HEy guys after reading this thread for the past few hr.. i went and disconected my EGR, pulled it out to clean it.. man you guys hould off seen it .. it was all in grease, black just discasting looking. so i clean that , cleaned the hole for EGR -vacumed it out us much us a could... put it back in, removed my throttle place from 2004 F350 king ranch. closed everything drove for about 30 miles no error codes came up, no engine light either...
My mods" bully dog programmer, 4' turbo back pipe, aftermarket intake...
i did notice better respons ,better engine start, i think i got like .9 % millage increase because on highway i usually got 13.6 mpg, today i got 13.9 driving between 65-75mph
OH yah turbo is much quiter than what it was with erg on and with a throttle plate... did like the sound of the turbo wistle with EGR and throttle plate installed... with out it truck has more deep sound , something like chevy truck with some wistle in between .

 

Hi all,

This is the best thread I have seen regarding the problems with the EGR. I have 54,000 miles on my 2004 Ford 6.0 and have now gone through three EGR's and one turbo. I have the extended warrenty so has not cost me much (YET!!!!!!!!!!!!!). The prob has ruined one vacation while towing my trailer and my wife will no longer go due to the anxiety involved. My first EGR went out at about 15,000, the second at about 32,000 and the third along with the turbo at 52,000. I have taken the advise of the tread owner and unplugged the EGR connector wire today. I just took the truck for a 25 mile spin and noticed nothing different and no dash lights or check engine lights came on.

I'm in this for the long haul as from what I understand, all the exhaust crap should no longer be recycling through the intake. Is my assumption correct? I'm still a bit confused concerning removing the egr throttle valve as recommended. I have choosen not to do this since this this would be obvious tampering. The egr wire can just fall off!! I purchased the 2004 in November of 2003 so I'm not positive if I even have the egr throttle on mine. Am I ok leaving the throttle in and just disconnecting the wire?

Thanks a bunch!

 

Matt -

You stated on top something about '04 builds, do you mean build date of the motor/truck, or model year. Curious as to if I need to do the plate mod as well.

Truck is a 2005

Truck was put into service 12/20/2004

What do you think, do I need to take a peek.

Thanks,

Chris

2005 Crew Cab Lariat 156" FX 4
4" Turbo Back
EGR Bypassed
BFG AT TK/KO
UWS Diamand Plate Box

 

it's like a 2 minutes process, super easy... unscrew 4 bolts you dont even need to remove house nothing unscrew look inside, but i doubt youll have it anyway... but just to make sure i would spend thouse 2 min to be sure.

 

Okay, I just spent hours (days) reading this entire thread.
My only question, is will my 05 Excursion pass NYS emissions with the EGR system disabled using a SCT tuner and removed EGR cooler. I assume NOx readings will be higher, but will it pass? I do have the cat still installed.

Thanks,
- Chris

 

Wellif i was u, just pass the emission first get your tags than remove the EGR and stuff, than when you need to get your emission done put it all back together it's minutes of work. but if you decide to remove the EGR and go for emission test i would asume it wont pass. but again, it's just unplug and plug thing>

 

I remember seeing on these forums not too long ago that someone blocked off the EGR r]system on his PSD and then performed an emissions test and it was cleaner than it was before. Theoretically, the NOx should be higher, but that's if the EGR system is ACTUALLY working the way it should.

 

nox at idle isn't an issue anyway, and the little sniffers they use at the local smog station aren't really going to pick up enough of anything to fail you as long as you are not gross polluting due to a poorly running engine.

if you have no CEL, and no missing cat, you should be golden. NY may be stricter, or may be less strict, all depends, but last time i smogged mine, the dude didn't even bother to check for a cat and wrote N/A on my paper just cause it was a diesel haha...
03 and older not required in nevada, but my 04 technically should have a cat for smog reasons ( which fell off sometime last year and i can't remember where)

 

I wanted to add this to the sticky and since this is EGR related and for those who wish to block the egr cooler and remove the up-pipe scoop, I want to share the following procedure in hope that you will find this project easy enough to do yourself.
The exhaust up-pipe (or y-pipe) has to be removed in order to eliminate the "scoop" inside. This scoop highly restricts the exhaust gasses to the point that you may even see soot trying to escape where the exhaust manifold meets the head! This evidence of soot will show you just how restrictive this egr up pipe is, however the drivers side manifold does not have this scoop and does not exhibit soot at that union.

This is an easy one man procedure that most anyone can do with basic mechanics tools.

Enjoy!

The first step in this modification is to remove the downpipe from your turbo.
This is a great time to upgrade to 4" aftermarket pipes! In these pictures I've already in place a Stainless Steel Magnaflow exhaust system.

Using a zip tie at the transmission will hold the end of your wrench in place. This is looking up from the drivers side.



Using a nylon zip tie will hold the socket firmly in place.



Using an extension from the passenger side remove the nut. I used penetrating oil on each bolt thread.



Take a magnet and remove the bolt. Notice the aftermarket 4" downpipe floating up in there.



A good telescopic magnet is an invaluable tool for those hard to reach places.



These two bolts are next. The upper bolt on the up-pipe and the stainless collar clamp on the egr cooler. They might look easy to get to but are way back in there near the firewall.



Using the same trick at the begining, zip tie your wrench end while using a combination on the nut.



A 3/8 air ratchet is the perfect tool for removing the egr cooler clamp at the up-pipe



Slide the egr clamp over the cooler and away from the up pipe. At the different colored union you can see where the up pipe and egr cooler meet.



Remove the lower bolts from the up pipe. Once all the bolts are removed, slide the now free pipe away from the exhaust pipe, This will give you room enough to fully remove the exhaust downpipe with ease.
Now that the 4" exhaust downpipe is removed, you can easily remove the egr y-pipe.



This up-pipe needed to be removed in order to modify it or replace it with one already modified. If you choose to replace it, Have one ready and on hand. You will need this for a refunded core charge.



The sheer size of the Magnaflow 4" downpipe puts this factory exhaust y-pipe in perspective.



The y-pipe is 2"



Here's the "scoop" that needs to be removed



The bright crescent area is the only flow area for the exhaust gasses, Now you get an idea why EGT's boils coolant so easily in the cooler, the exhaust is heavily Restricted. Just turning off the egr valve is not enough. This "scoop" has to go.



The next step is to decide how you want to fix the scoop, some have just cut it out with a sawsall from the side inlet port and then weld a plug in this Y part of the pipe feeding the cooler, others have removed the scoop, cut the Y part out of the pipe and welded a plate over the opening, while others have opted to buy an aftermarket pipe and replace it that way. I hope these pictures have been helpful to you and your 6.0.
Thanks for all the support here on FTE.

 

I have a 2003 F-250 with 6L. How do I find the build date to determine if I need to look for the throttle plate thing? Also, I have the CFMPlus elbow that removed something ont he motor too...was that the throttle plate or is this something different?

Chris

 

Benchwrench-

Way to do a write-up! Very good photos and instructions. It makes me really glad that I have an '04 and don't have to do this! I just don't have it in me lately to go the distance on some of the work. I may have gotten old when I wasn't looking. __________________

 

I have an 05. Can I just purchase a 03 up pipe and install a plug where it attaches to the cooler?

 

i followed the instructions in this thread and cannot clear the 403 and 405 codes from turning on my engine light is there somthing that i missed or should do?

 

I think the 03 pipe is a different size. I bought a stock pipe did the mods - removed the scoop it cost $85. I have the stock pipe - in-case I want to put it back to stock.