Originally Posted by wiredawg

I Have a 04 6.0 in a 350 lariat with with about 120 k on it. about a month ago It started doing the Huck a buck at about 65 mph. now it is always if you are not excelling. I changed oil and added 64 oz of Hot Shot from Lube. Spec. and was hoping that it would solve my problem. Does any one know what this could be. I use Lucas fuel supplement and have changed the fuel filters 1st pre oil change. Help I am about to have to head south towing a 16' trailer packed heavy so i need to solve this problem. wiredawg13@gmail.com

Originally Posted by SpartanDieselTech

This issue has been a hot discussion topic for several weeks now.

For everyone’s reference and use, I am going to list step by step instructions on the disconnection of the EGR system and removal of the EGR backpressure throttle plate (this throttle plate is only present in early 03 builds, and all 2004 builds; This is in reference to the ENGINE build date, not the trucks; if this does not apply to you simply skip over it and disconnect the EGR only)

First off, I will enlighten everyone (those of you who have not been keeping up with this discussion) with the pros and cons of this procedure. There have been many, many threads on this; please go back and read through these if you wish to uncover the details of the subject. Here are a couple of the more recent threads…
Maybe we should disconnect the EGR? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
EGR disconnection - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Here are two earlier posts I made about its effects on my motor-



In reference to this post, check out this link
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_031.jpg
You can see in the illustration how air is extracted from the passenger side upipe the EGR before it reaches the turbocharger.




Here is a quote pulled from FredsF250TD in another thread…


On most 03’s you will not receive a performance gain, as mentioned earlier. However, in all build dates, by disconnecting the EGR, you will clean up your intake air by preventing the recirculation of engine carbon, ect. Theoretically this will increase the life of both your oil and engine.

Before beginning the removal procedure, please check out this link to the 6.0 Bible.
Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual

Consult these three pages
1. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_009.jpg
2. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_038.jpg
3. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_037.jpg


The EGR is located on a small black cylinder (the black cylinder is the valve itself) right between the oil filter housing and intake elbow on top of the motor-just pull the plug. If you cannot find the location of it, first check the links above. Second – under the hood of the vehicle, look direcly to the center of the top of the motor. You will see a large black cylinder sticking out of the top of the motor; it is the largest object front-side of the turbocharger. Direcly in front of it will be a smaller black cylinder, with a 4-wire weatherpack connector on top. Reach down, pull the tab on the backside of the plug, and remove it. This will disconnect the EGR valve. (Ensure that the switch to the vehicle is off before pulling it, the vehicle must be off to ensure the valve is closed. Otherwise, it is possible to lock it in the open position.)

The throttle plate is a slightly more involved process to remove. REMEMBER, this is not necessary for later 03 build dates; once you get the elbow off there will be no plate. However, for anyone with a set of sockets, it is simple. Here are the tools you will need – a 3/8 drive ratchet, a 3/8 extension bar (preferably a fairly long one), an 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, and either a 9mm socket or a flathead screwdriver, depending on the build date of the engine. To begin – remove the clamp holding the boost tube to the engine. The boost tube comes up from the bottom of the right side of the front of the motor, over top the motor, and into the elbow. The clamp will either be located on a piece of flexible rubber hose (03 build) or on a rigid black plastic pipe (04 build). For 03 build, there will be two clamps, remove the one closest to the aluminum elbow. Remove these and slide the boost tube over out of the way.
The elbow will have 4 bolts holding it onto the throttle body assembly. Three are 8mm; the front left side bolt is a longer, 10mm bolt. Remove these, and pull the intake off. In either the groove on the bottom side of the intake or the top side of the throttle assembly, there will be a large rubber o-ring. If possible, leave this ring in one of the grooves. If not, lay it to the side and DO NOT LOSE IT. When looking into the throttle assembly, you should see a large butterfly valve mounted in the throttle assembly. (ONCE AGAIN, if you do not, you have a late 03 build; begin the reassembly process) On both the right and left hand side of the throttle assembly you will see black boxes with wires leading into them; the left hand side is the throttle body servo motor, the right hand side is the throttle plate position sensor. It is not necessary to do anything to these.
To remove the plate, you will need a #10 torx driver. There are two small torx screws holding the plate to the throttle plate mounting crossbar. Rotate the plate to the SHUT position and loosen these screws. Before removing the screws totally, ensure that you have a magnet to pick them up with. YOU MUST NOT DROP THE SCREWS INTO THE INTAKE. Remove the screws with the magnet. Rotate the plate back to the open position, and pull the plate straight up to remove it.
For reassembly, start with the rubber o-ring between the throttle body and the intake elbow. If the motor was hot when you removed the o-ring, soak it in water for 30 seconds to cool it down; as if it is hot it will not properly fit back into the slot. Be sure the o-ring is properly seated and place the intake elbow back on top of the throttle body, ensuring that the holes are lined up. The larger of the 4 bolts goes back into the bottom left hand side. Retighten. Then, slip the boost tube back over the lip on the intake elbow. Retighten the clamp holding the tube on, and ensure that it is quite snug, BUT DO NOT STRIP IT OUT. If you have an 04 motor, do not slide the plastic tube all the way back to the end of the lip of the elbow. Slide it most of the way and snug it up lightly; wiggle it until it seats and then fully tighten. Start the motor and ensure that you cannot hear any air noises, ect. Presto.

If anyone would like further information on effects of the EGR, or the removal, feel free to email me or send a private message. I will provide any knowledge/knowhow I have on the subject.

Originally Posted by kbf1961

Pulled the plug on my 2006 6.0 yesterday. CEL second start up. Turbo lag was quite noticably less. 2 or 3lbs less turbo boost at WOT.
I can live with less boost. I am not going to be able to live with the turbo lag any longer if I plug it back in or the CEL. How do I go about making the CEL go away?

Originally Posted by BLADE35

Man this is an old thread

A tunner with a custom tune will turn off the CEL

The PCM looks for MAT and EBP to changewhen the valve is opened

IMO either leave the EGR system alone or Do a Full egr deleate

Once the CEL turns on some of these trucks go into a Limp Mode

read threw this I cant remember what year was tested but all years have similair effects


Unplugged EGR VALVE & the problems that follow
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...egr-valve.html

Originally Posted by kbf1961

Thanks Blade35. I knew it was a very old thread. Im relatively new to the post.
Suggestions on a tuner?

Originally Posted by eh76

If the unit is plugged in do the codes reset or do they need to be cleared?