Smiley1 and bnmcoy,


Thanks for the help. I will try your idea Smiley1 and see if it works.

Kevin

 

Welcome to FTE and the 6.0 forum Smiley1

When you get a chance you might want to cruise over to our Tech Folder for some great 6.0 info.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303583

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https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html

 

I unhooked my EGR on my 06 and the light came on in the dash. I drove it for a day or two and hooked it back up. Light is still on. Do I need to disconnect the battery for 30 min to get light to go off? Thanks

 

No, it will turn off in a couple of days after the computer runs through it's monitors.

 

I've been doing some 1/8 and 1/4 mile runs with the data logging function on my flashpaq 1805 this week. The best I could do was 9.06 1/8 and 14.57 1/4. Today I made a 1/4 mile run 14.66. After that I deceided to unplug the egr and see what happens. Since my truck is an 05 the cel came on. I made two runs 1/8 8.99 and 1/4 14.50, my best times yet! I noticed boost was down a little but throttle response and power seemed better. My question is, is there any downside to leaving it disconected? I can live with the light on and I have a scangauge that I can check to see if any new codes have set.

 

Does anyone out there know of a way to get rid of this light without installing a extra dead EGR or do I just have to live with it ? Can I turn the light off with a Scangauge II ? or what kind of Tuner will turn that signal off without blocking all other signals
But anyway :I will definitaly kepp the EGR un-plugged.<O></O>
_____________________________________________<O> </O>
09/06 F350 PSD Outlaw srw crew c. 2K<O></O>

 

A custom SCT file can disable the egr function and the corresponding trouble codes. The dummy egr will not work on your truck.

 

I don't know why I waited to long in doing this. I started reading this thread a year or so ago when I first bought my 04 and I was kind of hesitant of doing anything to it. So now after a couple of dents and scratchs and a lot of hesitating from a stop, almost to the point of stalling, I go ahead and disconnect the EGR. I didn't notice it being any louder, no light and more importantly no more hesitation. Thanks guys.

Should I be worried about any build up of gunk and if I should how would I go about cleaning it. Sorry if this has been asked before, I didn't actually read all 600+ posts.

Cheers,
Neil

 

Good question about gunk build-up. Mine has been disconnected for >40,000 miles. Does anyone know?

 

The purpose of any EGR system is to "reduce emissions". If you disconnect the EGR valve, there isn't any exhaust gas recircluation going on. That's precisely what you want in order to avoid "gunk buildup". You would be amazed at the grunge that coats the inside of the intake with EGR active over time.

Another culprit is the crankcase ventilation system. There are writeups here that talk about how to go about redirecting the CCV flow to vent to atmosphere instead of your intake.

 

Holy crap this is a long thread, and I actually read all of them this week. As far as performance goes, everyone seems to be happy with better throttle reponse, but most report a loss of boost pressure. Could it be that the engine is making more power with less boost simply because it is burning clean fuel instead of all of the garbage from the EGR mixed in with it. I'm somewhat new to diesel's, I have had my truck for a little over a year now, but just recently got the time to start playing with it. I had a mustang, and the end all be all of making power was more boost. Someone just posted up they got their 2 best 1/4 mile times with the EGR disconnected. Is the throttle response that much quicker that it makes up for a 3-7 psi loss of boost pressure in 1/4 mile. Or is the engine that much more efficient that it doesn't need the extra boost. Has anyone with gauges checked their boost pressures while pulling a heavy trailer (or anything else under heavy strain). Is there any boost lost at the peak load? It somewhat makes sense that the computer is defaulting to a safe mode and dropping boost pressure because it is not sensing the EGR, but it doesn't make sense that there is better performance with less boost. Any thoughts?

 

That is exactly the scenario.

 

Matt, does it help to modify the uppipe to take the scoop out as well? I can't believe it wouldn't. I bought a kit that included block offs for the uppipe and intake and a coolant reroute pipe, but I didn't use the exhaust block off, I had a shop cut it out and weld on a patch.

Thanks!

 

Yes it does; and we carry the pipes that are already modified, if anyone ever wanst a bolt-on fix for it.

My kit actually leaves the cooler in place; I have just seen no need for the expense to remove it when once the inlet pipe is gone, there is simply no purpose for it.

 

I removed the cooler simply because we were studding the heads anyway so everything had to pretty well come off as it was.

It's been 3 1/2 weeks and my buddy is STILL working on it. Sheesh! I can't wait to get her back!!

She got head studs, fluidampr, EGR removed, CCV reroute, Batteries moved to the bed, four new gauges, coolant filter, return regulated fuel system, 4" downpipe to 5" out single and new CAC couplers. All that with the big intake, banks intercooler, Nitrous, FASS 150/150 and SCT should make her a bit more fun!!