hey guys i am swapping in a 460 to my 77 and was wondering if there was any thing i should know . i have done some research and found out some stuff but what i need to know is the block number, i dont know the year of my donor motor, i came out of a 79 f250 but it was also a swap, the numbers on my block were hand stamped number that are 9z628392, it was bolted to a standard and i am going to a c-6.are the flexplates differant per year?

 

You need a properly balanced 460 flexplate. You'll be able to tell if it is by the presence or absence of a counterweight on the flywheel of the motor you have. There will also either be a counterweight behind the balancer, or the balancer will have a cutaway area if it's externally balanced. An internally balanced motor will have no weight behind the balancer or cutaway.

 

there is no cut out on the balancer and there are no counter wights on the flywheel

 

Nor a triangle-shaped lump behind the balancer cast into the spacer, I suppose? Right, then. Internal balance. Make sure you get a 460 internal-balance flexplate (boneyard, Summit, whatever) and you should be ok...

 

aren't all 385 seiries internaily balanced

 

IIRC, they're externally balanced '79 and up.

 

I like the '78 and earlier Lincoln motors, they make good rework+stab-it-in swaps for M motors. Rod caps are a little thin for serious work, you should use ARP bottom-end fasteners in any case if you plan on gittin' on it. Earlier football-head rods (if you luck out and find a PI motor f'rinstance) or marine rods are needed for hi-output builds. The cranks are beautiful hi-nodular pieces that when combined with the good rods and properly balanced and fastened down with ARP main studs with a windage tray will wind out almost like a smallblock! Ford cast cranks are pretty tough. The intake ports are beautiful and need minimal cleanup. Combined with a Weiand Stealth, you'll get both bottom end and a fat midrange. The Offy Port-O-Sonic is a good manifold for 500+ HP Mustang twisters. The exhaust port is a complete disaster and needs a bit of work on the port roof to flow respectably. Looking in at the walve window shows a nasty EGR-inducing lump right in the way of exhaust flow that just has to go in order to uncork things. Removing that alone is worth a noticeable difference. A street 460 makes best power with 750-850 CFM carburetor, (depending on the cam you're using and how high you want to spin it), but a 600 square-bore will will bolt right on the factory manifold with a Summit carb plate if you're looking for something just a little warmed-over with better mileage. Headers are a necessary element of proper breathing; it's already choked up on the exhaust side by the puny port.

 

it is going in a 2wd prerunner and i am going to keep it as stock as possible for now. so a fly wheel for an internally balanced motor ok then i am going to double check for the triangle hump, thank you i will keep you posted on the progress. oh one more thing, can i use the control module from my 351 on the 460 distributer?

 

Yep, all blue-grommet Duraspark II boxes are the same. Plug for the distributor should be the same, too.

 

thanx man!