I currently have a 460 D9TE-AB block in my 1979 F-150 that was tested and failed to be able to go 0.080 bore for my JE pistons with the 514 stoker kit. Walls will be too thin to support stoker. It was bored 0.030 in last rebuild. Due to these results, I have to look for a new block. The machine shop found one for me out of a 1978 truck, so the owner says, has been inside his shop in storage. Have yet to get a good casting number to identify from him, what am I looking for? The only number so for was 7H12 from somewhere on the block, I'm guessing this is a casting pour date Aug. 12, 1977. Can this be correct? Am I looking for a number like D1VE? What other numbers could it be if out of a 78 truck? Also, did the "T" start in 1979 for trucks and all previous numbers had the "V" for Lincoln pass. car as the third spot of the casting numbers? One source said on this site that the D1VE was from 1973 to 1978, I thought the second digit was for the year it started. Please clarify for me. Also, getting out of context here, but am I correct to understand that if it is a 1978 block, it will be internal balanced and that would require a neutral balanced fly wheel and no hatchet spacer. Is there any other concerns for this swap?

 

just above the starter should be the d1ve youre looking for, and yes the d1ve block was designed in 1971- the casting numbers are just revision numbers- the actual cast date doesnt matter. also, as for you wanting to bore a block to .080 only some 460 blocks will go there, and theres no casting number thats any more or less likely to be able to go .080, its just the luck of the draw. yes the d9te was the first 460 block with the t in it. no other real concerns on the internal balance block, but as always make sure you get your rotating assembly balanced if you want your engine to live

 

Darrin, thanks for the feedback. Yes, it sucks when you can't buy pistons but in two sizes, 0.030 and 0.080. Anything in between, becomes very very expensive. Again thanks, Tom

 

For that much over bore I would suggest getting a C8, C9 or D0 block. These early blocks are known to be better for over bores and strength. Make sure the stroker kit will fit the D9 block. The D9 motors have shorter crank throws meaning you can not install a pre 78 crank in a 79 and up block.

Also any 460 motor you find from D1(19971) up to D8(1978) will all be D1 blocks. D9 it change.

 

[QUOTE=RTM]For that much over bore I would suggest getting a C8, C9 or D0 block. These early blocks are known to be better for over bores and strength. Make sure the stroker kit will fit the D9 block. The D9 motors have shorter crank throws meaning you can not install a pre 78 crank in a 79 and up block.{/QUOTE]

Wrong into there, or actually urban myth that the early blocks could go with a larger over bore. If you need the link I will find it again but 2 yrs ago we had a "block summit" were down at Dave McClains place we decided to find out what blocks would go more overbore or not. So in one day we sonic tested 36 blocks with all the casting numbers, foundries, etc. What we found was no blocks were anymore likely or any less likely to be able to go to more overbore, that even included a nascar Boss 9 block. You are just as likely to find a D9TE block that will go .080 as you are to find a DOVE block. There are some differences, yes the DOVE blocks have thicker main webbings but believe it or not I prefer the D9TE blocks for strokers because they actually have a longer cylinder wall which will support the piston at BDC better than the early blocks.
Most of the stroker kits have the cranks setup to run in any of the blocks so it''s not a concern as to not being able to fit into the D9 blocks. The only ones that don't seem to be ones made with offset ground factory cranks.

 

Being that my D9TE block ( already bored .030) will not take the .080 overbore to accommodate the next size pistons and be safe in wall thickness; I am looking at this 78 block, presumably a D1VE that is stock and will go to .030 if everything else checks out with the block. Does the D1VE block have adequate wall height to handle a 4.3 stoker kit versus the D9TE? Bottom line, do I look for a D9 or use the D1? Thanks, Tom

 

D9TE blocks have longer cylinder walls that protrude .125" farther into the crankcase.
D9TE external balance engines have smaller counterweights, so the cylinders can be longer.
D9 blocks are good for the 4.5" stroker kits.

 

Bobby, so the D9 is the better block if you are stroking to 4.5. What about the 4.3, will the D1VE block do?

 

yep the d1ve block will be fine for the 4.3" stroke. itll work for the 4.5" too, just not as well as a d9te

 

monstorbaby, now that you mention it I recall reading about the tests done on the stock blocks. Thanks for correcting me. I just tosed a D9 block in the scrap pile a few weeks ago. I won't do that any more.

 

I have a C8, a C9 and a D1 block. My D1 block just got rebuilt at I believe 468". I'm building my C9 block with a 4.3 stroke for 521".
The D9TE block is a better block for a 4.5 stroke.
The D1 block is good for a 4.3 stroke.