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Might want to check with a glass shop, there is a special tool to remove the trim, and they have the good equipment and experience to do the job without breaking the glass... I have to get mine done too, and that's the way i'm going to go, I can get it done locally for $50.
Also i'm reinstalling the windshield cause it leaks whats the best way to do this?
I had a leak that turned out to just be a bad spot in the seal. I had a body shop remove the chrome trim and then I sealed it and reinstalled the chrome. A windshield shop wanted $120 to remove and reseat the original glass, the body shop manager (a friend of mine) would not touch it ... no way! He said the best way to bust a windshield is to try to remove it intact.
We verified the leaky spot with compressed air applied to the inside of the windshield with a hand held outside to feel for an air flow. Looking at the way the sealing compound was sitting under the glass across the top of the windshield pretty much told the story and the air verified it. I just used some self-leveling RV sealer made for use with glass and metal and did the whole thing while I was at it. Another thread advised against silicone compounds because they can promote rust. Do some searches on windshield leaks for more info.
As far as the interior trim pieces, I would first look at the junkyards in your area. Would be a whole lot cheaper, and I'm not sure if you can even find some of those pieces in catalogs. That main dash piece is a pita to get out, with like 25+ screws--some you can see, some inside with the screw head facing the engine--plus having to remove the whole instrument cluster and glove compartment. The other pieces are pretty straightforward. The piece above the windshiled just pries out.
Just pulled off ALL the interior trim/dash stuff a couple of days ago....
the trim p[ieces have clips holding them to the interior walla/sheet metal once you locate each clip put a flat head screwdriver next to it and apply pressure downward they will pop out..... now with my truck they squeaked and rattled quite a bit, so when reinstalling them its nice to put some expanding foam on the backside of the trim, it wont squeak or rattle that way.
Cardboard works well also. All I really need is a couple of the door pillar trim pieces and the actual dash pad, sorry didn't mean the main dash. I don't really want a dash pad cover like all the catalogs sell though, I would greatly prefer an original dash in good condition. How do you get the long metal strip of trim thats mounted on the inside of the cab to the upper windshield off? It seems pretty solid and I really don't want to break anything.
There's a special tool that can be gotten at some of the automotive stores, or try www.eastwoodco.com I think that's the link for Eastwood Company, they have a lot of the specialty tools like that. It looks like an arrow, but it pushes the clip back so the trim can be removed.
Garland, that long piece just pries off. There are 4 clips that hold it on, one on each side about 3-4 inches from the end, and 2 others closer to the middle. If you just want to get the pillars off, just pry those ends ones up with a screwdriver, and the pillar will be free to take out. It makes a big jarring sound when the clips pull out, as it's metal on metal, but it didn't do any damage....
However, it also can and sometimes does do damage taking the trim off, if you can find the clip, it is possible to get the clips loose witha 90 degree pick. It is basically a spring clip that hold on to the lip of the chrome trim. If you get carried away taking it off,it will be damaged. It can be done as suggested, but it can be damaged by doing it that way, just wanted to make that clear.
Fellro is right about that, and as you're looking to get things in pretty pristine condition, you're probably better off getting the tool. I'm in the middle of doing a complete drivetrain and suspension swap, and have to be choosy about the tools I buy--limited budget and time--and often have to manage with what I got. I've only removed it once, and probably just got lucky!
I'd like to go 4x4 if possible, so i'm not really working on anything mechanical atm, plus not sure if I want to keep the 302, heard the 351W has a lot more low end torque. If this becomes a serious project, i want to make everything as permenant as possible and not have to redo/swap andything later.