Cost for alignment
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Cost for alignment
I have a 96 Explorer XLT. For a while it has been pulling to the right and the inside of both front tires are not wearing evenly. I am also getting a pretty nasty shimmy through the steering wheel at speed now (i think from the tires being cupped on the inside).
I am pretty sure I need an alignment - any recommendations for what I should expect to pay and recommendations for a shop (either a national chain or local to Phoenix AZ) would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I am pretty sure I need an alignment - any recommendations for what I should expect to pay and recommendations for a shop (either a national chain or local to Phoenix AZ) would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Las Vegas, NV
type of alignment affects cost too
cost will also be dependent on alignment type: 2 wheel, four wheel, or thrust-angle.
The bad news is, if your tires are so cupped, you may still have a shimmy or pull after the new alignment. Make sure you move the back tires to the front(assuming they're not cupped too) and balance them for the alignment if you're not replacing any tires.
The bad news is, if your tires are so cupped, you may still have a shimmy or pull after the new alignment. Make sure you move the back tires to the front(assuming they're not cupped too) and balance them for the alignment if you're not replacing any tires.
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Thanks 98XLT,
The front tires are pretty messed up so after the alignment i was going to buy 2 new tires to replace them.
A proper alignment and 2 new tires should eliminate any pull or shimmy, correct?
The front tires are pretty messed up so after the alignment i was going to buy 2 new tires to replace them.
A proper alignment and 2 new tires should eliminate any pull or shimmy, correct?
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Before you "buy" anything, take a look at the front end of your XLT. If the wheels look like they are leaning, jack up the front end and place on hand on the top of the tire and one at the bottom, then do push the top and pull the bottom of the wheel. If it moves, then your ball joints are history (chances are they are and if one is bad, just consider the rest bad). An alignment isn't guaranteed unless the ball joints are working.
Take it from me, I have a 1996 F150 and replaced 2 front tires, then went to Goodyear and paid for an alignment, but they said the ball joints were shot and they would not guarantee the alignment. 4 months later the tires were worn inside to the point that they were bald (outside had nice tread....yuck...dang thing rode like a stage coach). Looked at the front end again, and the tires were leaning. Bought 4 ball joints and read up on changing them, said to heck with it and found a mechanic who charged $170 out the door including an alignment. Money dang well spent.
Take it from me, I have a 1996 F150 and replaced 2 front tires, then went to Goodyear and paid for an alignment, but they said the ball joints were shot and they would not guarantee the alignment. 4 months later the tires were worn inside to the point that they were bald (outside had nice tread....yuck...dang thing rode like a stage coach). Looked at the front end again, and the tires were leaning. Bought 4 ball joints and read up on changing them, said to heck with it and found a mechanic who charged $170 out the door including an alignment. Money dang well spent.
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pmadtaylor,
thanks for the advice - i will run the check you described and see if i need the ball joints replaced also. I probably do since my tires are wearing the same as yours did.
thanks for the advice - i will run the check you described and see if i need the ball joints replaced also. I probably do since my tires are wearing the same as yours did.
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Another thing that I ended up having to replace after all was said and done were the U-Joints on the drive shaft. There was still a good vibration after the ball joint operation, and the U-joints were shot. I live in Michigan and all shops here were over $400 to do the ball joints alone. Thank god for licensed backyard mechanics who have no monetary overhead to deal with.
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