Circle earth ground kit.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 317
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From: WEST TEXAS
Hey buzz try having to memorize this stuff day in and day out & stay on top of the game as N/T becomes much more complex. Been doing this for over 15 years now.
Most of all my friends & old customers just call me the professor.
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER.............TURBO TED
Most of all my friends & old customers just call me the professor.
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER.............TURBO TED
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by FarmLaw
Still sticking to my guns on this one. I would say it is metaphysically impossible to produce an extra 11 hp from a Volvo S80 by simply adding more grounding to it. If that were possible, every (non-econo) automaker in the world would do it...What's the cost to Ford to do this? Maybe an extra $50? And what would they get out of it? Better CAFE ratings, more HP, more efficiency? If a 2.8L volvo 5 cylinder picks up 11 hp, then what would our 5.4s pick up? 20? Ford would do it in a heartbeat...but they're not, because it is snake oil.
As a sidenote, if you read the article, you will see they only did 1 before and after dyno run, and they were having problems controlling the auto tranny in 3rd gear. There's your 11hp. Improper operation of a car on a dyno can cause swings far larger than that. And I would wager that, on the second run, he knew better how to run the car...thus producing a more efficient/accurate run on the dyno.
As a sidenote, if you read the article, you will see they only did 1 before and after dyno run, and they were having problems controlling the auto tranny in 3rd gear. There's your 11hp. Improper operation of a car on a dyno can cause swings far larger than that. And I would wager that, on the second run, he knew better how to run the car...thus producing a more efficient/accurate run on the dyno.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,983
Likes: 2
I appreciate the dissertation. I expected an electrical potential from ground to coolant. A better ground does what? Negate the potential caused by ion exchange between the coolant and metal parts? Wouldn't that be like saying a second wire from the battery reduces the electrical potential in the battery? I'm not sure what you are getting at. Radiator (aluminium, brass, etc.) engine block (cast iron, aluminum), and an electrolyte (coolant) and you have an electrical potential. That is like saying if you release an object, it falls to the ground.
Now then, when we get back to the power gain, I call BS.
Now then, when we get back to the power gain, I call BS.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: WEST TEXAS
Originally Posted by hkiefus
I appreciate the dissertation. I expected an electrical potential from ground to coolant. A better ground does what? Negate the potential caused by ion exchange between the coolant and metal parts? Wouldn't that be like saying a second wire from the battery reduces the electrical potential in the battery? I'm not sure what you are getting at. Radiator (aluminium, brass, etc.) engine block (cast iron, aluminum), and an electrolyte (coolant) and you have an electrical potential. That is like saying if you release an object, it falls to the ground.
Now then, when we get back to the power gain, I call BS.
Now then, when we get back to the power gain, I call BS.
Now this is a prime example of the laws of physics, it is that easy.
Give it a try & be a little optimistic.
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER...............TURBO TED
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Ok- First of all, its not a Volvo S80, its an 850R. The engine displacement is 2.3L and stock the car is supposed to have 240 HP at the crank.
Lets keep in mind that the car in question is turbocharged, dyno runs on a turbo car can be very erratic depending on ambient tempature, engine temp, and the driver.
I also happen to know Volvos quite well and there is a very popular trick people do in the Volvo world, a.k.a the wastegate mod. By running the screw that holds the actuator rod on the wastegate in about 3 rotations, the car will boost slightly higher and a bit sooner than usual. This will only last so long, as the ECU (Motronic 4.3..4.4 in 97?) will detect an over boost condition and attempt to correct it, which in the end may leave you with less boost.
Whats my point? I don't believe that dyno or any of the hype about grounding kits. They were someones idea on how to make money fast. The general consensus in the VW world is that they don't do anything at all - believe me there are plenty of 1.8T grounding kits available.
DVG
Lets keep in mind that the car in question is turbocharged, dyno runs on a turbo car can be very erratic depending on ambient tempature, engine temp, and the driver.
I also happen to know Volvos quite well and there is a very popular trick people do in the Volvo world, a.k.a the wastegate mod. By running the screw that holds the actuator rod on the wastegate in about 3 rotations, the car will boost slightly higher and a bit sooner than usual. This will only last so long, as the ECU (Motronic 4.3..4.4 in 97?) will detect an over boost condition and attempt to correct it, which in the end may leave you with less boost.
Whats my point? I don't believe that dyno or any of the hype about grounding kits. They were someones idea on how to make money fast. The general consensus in the VW world is that they don't do anything at all - believe me there are plenty of 1.8T grounding kits available.
DVG
New User
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hello all:
I have an issue with electrolysis in my 00 Expy. Stock heater core lasted 15 years and now I'm working on my 7th or 8th in the last couple of years. New head gaskets, new radiator. Blew another d--- heater core. So I understand that I have to start testing the grounds to make sure that they are conducting the way they should. My issue is that I'm not entirely sure where they all are. Is there some place I can find on line, at the shop, or somewhere that will point out the location of the ground wires? Once I know where they are, I can start systematically checking them before I put in heater core #9.
Related question, Some of my heater hose lines were corroded so I pulled them off an replaced them. I DID NOT use new Ford Quick Connect heater core hoses. I simply used 5/8 heater hose and a hose clamp. I then read later that the Ford Quick Connect had a restrictor in it to reduce the pressure to the heater core. Is this correct? If it is, I would assume that I should pull off my generic hoses and replace with Ford Quick Connects.
Thank you for your help.
I have an issue with electrolysis in my 00 Expy. Stock heater core lasted 15 years and now I'm working on my 7th or 8th in the last couple of years. New head gaskets, new radiator. Blew another d--- heater core. So I understand that I have to start testing the grounds to make sure that they are conducting the way they should. My issue is that I'm not entirely sure where they all are. Is there some place I can find on line, at the shop, or somewhere that will point out the location of the ground wires? Once I know where they are, I can start systematically checking them before I put in heater core #9.
Related question, Some of my heater hose lines were corroded so I pulled them off an replaced them. I DID NOT use new Ford Quick Connect heater core hoses. I simply used 5/8 heater hose and a hose clamp. I then read later that the Ford Quick Connect had a restrictor in it to reduce the pressure to the heater core. Is this correct? If it is, I would assume that I should pull off my generic hoses and replace with Ford Quick Connects.
Thank you for your help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 7
From: NE Tennessee
Mine I bought didn't have any restriction in them. They are motorcraft. Not cheap for sure. If you can't find your grounds then just make new ones from the battery to the chassis and one from the motor to the chassis. Make sure your using distilled water mixed with the antifreeze or just buy the 50/50 premixed. What brand heater core are you putting in there? Thats a lot of work to not put a motorcraft part in there.
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