Circle earth ground kit.
Here is a link to a system sold specifically for the Expedition:http://www.eautoworks.com/html/searc...und~System.htm
This auto wires system (ground wire kit) provides direct ground path from battery negative to body, chassis, and engine components to give extreme improvement on electrical circulation.
The Hyper Ground System wire cables have 10 times less impedance than factory ground system, which provides immaculate conduction to prevent electrical power loss. The higher resistances of factory grounds have negative effect to the ignition system and obstruct the primary potential.
Hyper Ground Wire Kits uses thick gauge 99.99% pure copper, and connects directly from the cylinder head and other points under the hood to the battery, to provide an ultra low resistance connection. This ground wire kit will increase the primary potential of regular cars to ignition-tuned vehicles.
Key feature of Hyper Ground System (ground wire kit):
Gain Torque and Horsepower
Increase Fuel Efficacy for Better Gas Mileage
Better Throttle Response.
Reduced Emissions.
Brighter Headlights.
Reduced Audio Noise.
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Adding more ground straps to a stock Expy is a waste. The factory grounding is more than adequate for factory applications. Now, if you start changing things, you may need more grounding.
E.g. 1: 25 year old Expy with corroded ground straps. Replace them.
E.g. 2: Expy with aftermarket electronic accessories installed that draw a lot of amps. Install larger ground straps? NO. The proper installation would be to install dedicated ground lines from the battery or power distribution point directly to the accessory. Grounding to the body, and then using ground straps to carry the current on a circuituitious route all over the truck isn't efficient or effective.
So I'd say if you're stock, stay stock. If you're aftermarket, install things properly. If you drive the truck for 25 years, keep an eye on the ground straps.
FWIW, I don't think the Expy headlights ground through the body anyhow.
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I have personally seen dyno proven gains using the hyper voltage systems.
Were not talking 2hp... we are talking 15-20hp AT THE WHEELS.
I never would have believed it if i had not seen it myself.
here is a magazine dyno review
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0401cae_hyper/
So i will be trying it on my 04 navi. Ill get it dynoed before and after and let you guys know.
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Was reading an article in a jap car magazine & found an add for
hyper wires claiming that this system would improve the throttle
responce/ gain torque&horse power/ better fuel mileage/ reduced emissions/ brighter head lights/ reduced audio noise. So
i went to their web site read the site & decided to follow in their
low resistance path so i gathered up some high quality oxygen free wires that i had laying around & began making some hyper ground wires. First ground i made was the battery to injector resistors /2nd was battery to throttle bodie/3rd was to the transmission & 4th was both fuel rails all of the above groundings were made using 10 guage multi stranded ofc wire & last but most important to a total guage equivelant of 0 - zero guage wire to the ecm& body & ground back to battery also.Now
maybe it is just me but wow this seemed to make a noticeable
improvement in all aspects of the vehicle from brakes/idle/the speed sensitive steering/ all lights are brighter/ stereo has tighter bass/ trip minder reads higher numbers on distance to empty now with same amounts of fuel. Now all of these of these
results are on my 98 Eddie bauer expedition with a 5.4 with other mods i had all ready done to it previously . Now i did all of the above mods to my 96 lincoln continental with the exception of
adding two of the zero guage body grounds & all of the previous results were just as noticeable. Hyper ground lists the x-lg & lg kits for around 99.00$ to 200.00$ ! Now i only spent 25.00$ on this project & this is following the hyper wires to the tee by soldering all connections heat shrinking all ends also trying to keep everything looking as colse to oem as possiable. I have about 500miles on my expediton since i fist did this & about 250 miles on my lincoln. Miles per gallon are better by a little not a whole lot .03& .07 mpg. All i can say is give the home made option a try.
If you would like I will post an awsome up date.
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER. .TURBO TED
As a sidenote, if you read the article, you will see they only did 1 before and after dyno run, and they were having problems controlling the auto tranny in 3rd gear. There's your 11hp. Improper operation of a car on a dyno can cause swings far larger than that. And I would wager that, on the second run, he knew better how to run the car...thus producing a more efficient/accurate run on the dyno.
mainly ion exchange rates. A superior grounding system is also more than
capable of allowing the fluids in the vehicle to remain at or near neutral
Ph balance.
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There is an electrolysis problem that is becoming the new haunting of today's automobile. If electrolysis is occurring in the cooling system it can/will cause rapid failure of the radiator or heater core. Electrolysis causes a chemical reaction that involves an ion exchange between the radiator or heater core and engine coolant. To state it simply, the coolant just eats the metal of the radiator or heater until there is none left. There are a couple forms of electrolysis that can occur in the cooling system. The most common is due to bad/acidic anti-freeze, which most people have a basic understanding of. The not so common electrolysis, but more deadly, is an electrically induced electrolysis. This is where the vehicle's electrical system causes a high rate of ion exchange in the cooling system that rips through heater cores or radiators. To test for this condition you need a digital volt meter. Start the engine and bring it up to about 2000 RPM. With the cooling system at operating temperature and the coolant flowing, connect the negative probe of the volt meter to the negative terminal of the battery. Place the positive probe in the coolant at the radiator and monitor the voltage. If you see .4 volts or greater reading on the voltage meter the coolant has to be flushed or there is a ground problem on the vehicle. If it is a ground problem you will most likely see the voltage reading climb if you turn on electrical accessories. To correct this condition will require inspection of the vehicle chassis/body and engine grounds. You may have to install a ground wire on the heater core and/or radiator to the battery. Electrically induced electrolysis in a cooling system is a mean beast. But it can be easily tamed with diagnosis and a good ground wire. This may be the reason your heatercore has failed. And as far as the difficulity level on the replacement is is pretty strait forward. But can be
a little overwhelming to a novis. Most heatercores only pay about
100$ to replace find someone you trust & pay them to do it.
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER..................TURBO TED



