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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 09:02 PM
  #1  
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2 inch lift blocks

Couple quick questions about a homemade 2 in lift using blocks on a 81 ford 3/4 ton. They are will i need enw shocks (this is a mud truck only and i need some more fender clearence as well as body to mud), as the leafs are a little saggie, and should i worry about cammber problems, but this truck is only for the mud boggs.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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bad bad idea for the front axle, that can have deadly results when one of those pops out. A much better idea would be a extra leaf in each side.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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How bout adding 3 leafs to aech corner from 2 old 75 f-100s
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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that would probably do it
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 10:24 PM
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why not drop the brackets down or make 2" longer shackles for the front?

-cutts-
 
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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mustange70
How bout adding 3 leafs to aech corner from 2 old 75 f-100s
Phew, that would ride like a dump truck. I'd drop the brackets like fishy mentioned.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 01:01 AM
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I would but i would like to try and stay away from messing around with moving brackets this year. Would getting the springs rearched be worth it? or is moving the brackets done my best bet?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 08:58 AM
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getting springs re-arched = ~$400 for all 4 (not even sure...don't qoute me on that, i know it isn't cheap though)

moving brackets around = ~$10 in nuts and bolts

remember i am on a college budget so i try and think of the most cost effiecient way of doing thigs!

-cutts-
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 04:56 PM
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Cutt's way is the cheapest or you could get leaves, cut them to different lengthes (ie-8", 10", and 12") and stack those under your current leaves. Drill a hole in them and pin them with the factory pack. These wouldnt have and axle wrap problems, and would be safe and cheap. Just go to a junk yard and get one leaf pack that has about 5 leaves and is a straight pack with no arch to it. You get 3 zero-rate add-a-leaves for cheap. I posted something on it a week ago, "cheap way to add 2 inches" or something of that nature.

I might just lower the brackets though, its not a hard job. You should be able to do it by yourself in an afternoon, but Im not sure ask Fishy how long it took him to install his shackle flip and that should be about the same time needed.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RawPower
ask Fishy how long it took him to install his shackle flip and that should be about the same time needed.
it took me somewhere in the neighborhood of 2 hours (hour each side). i used a torch to melt the heads of the rivets which really made things go twice as fast!

-cutts-
 
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Old Aug 17, 2004 | 11:04 PM
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if your gonna move the brackets just get a handfull of sharp new drill bits that frame is a pita to drill through.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 11:17 AM
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if your gonna move the brackets just get a handfull of sharp new drill bits that frame is a pita to drill through.

Most metal is...
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 02:53 PM
  #13  
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not like a frame! first it is pretty thick (1/4"), then you have to get down and drill sideways or upside down! at least most parts you can put on the ground flat or on the workbench! i HATE drilling frames!

-cutts-
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 05:13 PM
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But most parts that you set down on a bench or work shop spin aroung and whack you good when you drill them. Oh maybe thats just me forgeting to clamp it down...

Any of yall have tose Quick-Grips? I do and theyre great, getcho'self some!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 11:37 PM
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Yeah i think that i will do that along with getting a set of 1 ton springs cause we found an 84 3/4 ton with the big dana 50 and full float 10.25 for 200 bucks, so we are going to take those springs and then in that process i think i will move themn there brackets, also them there air drills (90 degree angle) make quick work of frames, i learned this when i drilled the holes for the sidemount of the np 205 t-case. (3 holes i had to drill, to bad i had dull bits)
 
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