resurfacing driveway
#1
#3
With the note that the asphalt companies fix would be more perminate, in the mean time asphalt crack filler and cold process asphalt or emulsufied asphalt (to fill the ruts) and asphalt sealers are available at most concrete/masonry supply yards.
The crack filler is a viscious liquid (basically a form of emulsified asphalt). The surface must be dry, with no threat of rain or snow for a couple of days, before you can begin.
The instructions are on the container, however, if the cracks are wider, masonry sand can be used as a gap filler in conjuction with the crack filler. Pour in a base coat, then sand, then a top coat, then scatter a little sand on top.
Cold process asphalt comes in sacks. Again, the surface must be dry, but rain or snow afterward is not such a big concern. Typically the asphalt in the sacks is compact and must be broken into a finer granular form with a pick or shovel. Afterward it's spread into the hole in 2" layers and compacted with heavy pressure (hand pounding with a 4x4, a plate or pogo compactor [rentals], water filled landscaping roller, or running over a board with a heavy vehicle).
Emulsufied asphalt is a viscious liquid. Again, the surface must be dry and rain or snow is a problem to avoid. The following assumes a deep hole repair. Thus, adjust things to suit the need. Remove the old asphalt and put down a 4" to 6" base of 1/2 compacted stone. Apply emulsfied asphalt at the rate of 1 1/2 gallons per square yard. Allow this to cure for 24 hours. Next reapply emulsified asphalt at the rate of 1/4 gallon per square yard, then spead sand or pea gravel at the rate of 30 pounds per sqaure yard, then immediately afterward roll with a heavy roller. Rolling must be done before the emulsion sets. Let cure for 24 hours. If it's not smooth enough, reapply emulsified asphault and reroll.
Asphalt sealer is a coal tar emulsion, covering about 100 square feet per gallon. The sealer will help to prevent staining from oil and gasoline and protect the asphalt from weather damage.
The crack filler is a viscious liquid (basically a form of emulsified asphalt). The surface must be dry, with no threat of rain or snow for a couple of days, before you can begin.
The instructions are on the container, however, if the cracks are wider, masonry sand can be used as a gap filler in conjuction with the crack filler. Pour in a base coat, then sand, then a top coat, then scatter a little sand on top.
Cold process asphalt comes in sacks. Again, the surface must be dry, but rain or snow afterward is not such a big concern. Typically the asphalt in the sacks is compact and must be broken into a finer granular form with a pick or shovel. Afterward it's spread into the hole in 2" layers and compacted with heavy pressure (hand pounding with a 4x4, a plate or pogo compactor [rentals], water filled landscaping roller, or running over a board with a heavy vehicle).
Emulsufied asphalt is a viscious liquid. Again, the surface must be dry and rain or snow is a problem to avoid. The following assumes a deep hole repair. Thus, adjust things to suit the need. Remove the old asphalt and put down a 4" to 6" base of 1/2 compacted stone. Apply emulsfied asphalt at the rate of 1 1/2 gallons per square yard. Allow this to cure for 24 hours. Next reapply emulsified asphalt at the rate of 1/4 gallon per square yard, then spead sand or pea gravel at the rate of 30 pounds per sqaure yard, then immediately afterward roll with a heavy roller. Rolling must be done before the emulsion sets. Let cure for 24 hours. If it's not smooth enough, reapply emulsified asphault and reroll.
Asphalt sealer is a coal tar emulsion, covering about 100 square feet per gallon. The sealer will help to prevent staining from oil and gasoline and protect the asphalt from weather damage.
#4
Originally Posted by JasonAppletree
Has anyone resurfaced/resealed their driveway before? I'm planning on resealing my asphalt driveway tomorrow. I've prepped it already, filled cracks, swept and hosed it down, but there is some sand still remaining. Is that good enough? Any input is appreciated.
Jason
Jason
#5
#6
you have to clean out the cracks first or you'll be sweeping forever. use a metal hook to dig the dirt out of the cracks, then a wire brush. this will help the crack filling product stick but it also stops you from turning up more dirt when you pass the broom over the cracks. but don't go so deep that you disturb the foundation and pull up pieces of asphalt. it might be as little as 1" thick in spots. just enough to get the dirt out from between the cracks.
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12-16-2012 03:45 PM