any pitfalls to using explorer rear end?
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From: indiana
any pitfalls to using explorer rear end?
can you use the original drive shaft and just change the rear stub over from the original to the explorer stubat the u-joint?
will the length be too much or is this one of those jobs where you will need to have a drive shaft shortened/lengthened?
how about spring perches? is the explorer perches in the correct place or will i need those as well?
will the length be too much or is this one of those jobs where you will need to have a drive shaft shortened/lengthened?
how about spring perches? is the explorer perches in the correct place or will i need those as well?
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From: Minnesota
If you use an explorer rear end with any amount of power, make sure that you also weld the tubes to the pumpkin. This is a common swap in jeeps and I've seen a couple of them spin the tubes because the factory plug welds don't hold.
See here, this is one of my club members jeeps
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/
Chuck P
See here, this is one of my club members jeeps
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/
Chuck P
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From: Northwestern PA
I used a Explore rearend in my 54 had no problems, But I didn't use stock trany or drive shaft, Also don't forget the pumpkin is off set, you can take up some of that by shifting the tany mount and motor mounts a little to match the angle
Mike
Mike
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From: indiana
well then i bet that was an interesting find. this sure isnt a major issue for me to weld that, but i dont see how it would break like that under a street application. must of been a real hard impact on one side of the axle
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From: Minnesota
Nothing but torque from the driveshaft, no impact. Normally the leafs would wrap, but the pins are weaker than the leaf springs. It's a common failure in those axles. He's got a healthy 350 in that jeep.
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From: Minnesota
I generally pull the carrier out before welding a housing, mainly so that there is no chance of the ground path arcing through the bearings. If you are carefull where your grounding clamp is, it should be OK to leave the guts in.
Chuck
Chuck
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From: indiana
generally speaking its alot better if you have the ground right were you are welding on or atleast on the same piece of metal.
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Nixer, Explorer rear axle is a good choice. Try to get one from a V8 if you haven't already purchased the rear end. You will have to weld on spring purches. A good parts store, or one that deals with trucks may be able to sell you a universal joint that fits the stock driveshaft on one side and the Explorer yoke on the other. They have conversion charts. Best to first measure the distance from the centerline of the axleshafts to the yoke on both the old and new axles. Maybe someone else can tell you if they are different. (I suspect they are).
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