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Rear End pinion angle? *pics*

 
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:48 PM
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Rear End pinion angle? *pics*

I bought some new axle perches and will be lowering the rear end by placing the axle on top of the leafs and notching the frame. The rear end is a Ford 9 inch that came with the truck (55 F-100) and I have a few questions abou the angle of the rear end where it meets the drive shaft.

Here it is currently:




as you can see it angles upwards instead of being level with the truck. Should i leve this out so it is level with the truck?

Also, it looks like there is metal spacer(block) between the axle perch and the spring, do i need to remount this on top? or is it okay to put the axle perch directly on the spring? pic:



Thanks guys!

ben
 
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:41 PM
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The rear axle companion flange,(where the drive bolts onto the rear end) should be parallel to the transmission output shaft.The angle of the front should match the angle of the rear,the front angle should be measured first and the rear one set to match the front.After you change the axle position place your jack stands under the rear axle to simulate the truck as it would if it were on the ground at normal ride height when you check those angles.

As far as the spacer under the rear springs,in its present state it is raising the rear of your truck,if you put the axle on top of the spring it will help to lower the rear of your truck more.I don't see what other purpose it would serve useless someone removed some leafs or the center bolt didn't match up to the spring perch??!!
 

Last edited by 52pickup; 09-27-2006 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:45 PM
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The "Metal Block" looks like a spring that was cut off.

As far as setting the pinion angle read the tech articles, there is a excellent article there.

Also there have been several threads on reversing the axle and C-Notching.
 
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:47 PM
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The angle of your pinion should match that of your transmission . Angle the pinion up the same amount that the trans angles down, this puts the U-joints on the same plane. Some will angle the pinion a few degrees farther down to compensate for the rear-end torquing up during hard acceleration.

You can remove the spacer from the springs, looks like someone's attempt at a 1/2" lift.

Jeff
P.S. from looking at the pic with the gas tank in it, I'm not the only one cursed with mud daubers.
 
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:51 PM
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I suspect that you will find that you need to install angle wedges or cut off and reweld the mounts on the 9 inch. Measure first to see how the angles compare. I had to do it putting a 9 inch under my 49.
 
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
I suspect that you will find that you need to install angle wedges or cut off and reweld the mounts on the 9 inch. Measure first to see how the angles compare. I had to do it putting a 9 inch under my 49.
I have new axle perches that i am welding on so that will be taken care of...

After looking at it, the block looks like it was a spring that was cut.. that will go

Originally Posted by mechmagcn
P.S. from looking at the pic with the gas tank in it, I'm not the only one cursed with mud daubers.
Cursed, it was crazy at first. They were everywhere. That is the last of the mud daubers, which is okay because i am putting a mustang tank in the rear instead of using the factory one.


Thanks guys!

ben
 
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Old 09-27-2006, 11:21 PM
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As I am in the process of changing the rearend under my 56 , I checked out the photos . The set-up shown is different ( actually upside down) compared to the stock arrangment.On my truck , the u-bolts went down across the leaf springs & thru a plate on the bottom . The lower shock mount was on the bottom plate. The original bottom plate will not work with a later rearend if the housing (or tube) is bigger in diameter than the stock one.If I use a set-up like the one shown , should the top plate be flipped over instead of like in the picture so the head of the spring center bolt will be in the hole provided for it ? Thanks
 
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:04 PM
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I would bolt your rearend to the leaves with the new spring perches inplace without welding them first. Then set the truck down on the ground with tires and wheels installed as if you were ready to drive it. Then lossen the u-bolts only enough to rotate the rearend. Rotate it to the required angle re-tighten the u-bolts and then go ahead and weld the spring perches. You what to load the suspension with the weight of the finished vehicle before you set the pinion angle.
 
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Old 09-29-2006, 08:36 PM
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Here is a link to pinion angle setup with pics http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html
It is pretty simple when you see the pic.
 
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:05 PM
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I know I am digging up some old stuff but the article that ragerf100 posted by the Inland Empire Driveline was the best read that helped calm my nerves the most.
 
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by brucewolff View Post
I would bolt your rearend to the leaves with the new spring perches in place without welding them first. Then set the truck down on the ground with tires and wheels installed as if you were ready to drive it. Then loosen the u-bolts only enough to rotate the rearend. Rotate it to the required angle re-tighten the u-bolts and then go ahead and weld the spring perches. You want to load the suspension with the weight of the finished vehicle before you set the pinion angle.
This is good advice...the only thing that I would add is: the pinion should be parallel to the crankshaft. Sounds simple but that is the goal of any adjustment procedure that you read. Most engines are installed with a 3 degree downward angle...the pinion should be 3 degrees upward in these cases.
 
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed View Post
Most engines are installed with a 3 degree downward angle....
.and this angle is automatically built in by the manufactures in to the intake manifold, if you dead level the carb base mount the tailshaft will be at 3 degrees down, do the same on the pinion, 3 degrees up, done!

Originally Posted by CharlieLed View Post
...the pinion should be 3 degrees upward in these cases.
 
 
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