Trans stuck between gears??
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From: Saratoga, NY
Trans stuck between gears??
Ok now here's the deal, 77 F-100 C-4. From a stop in 'D' as soon as you get on the gas it immeadiatly slips slides into 2nd. man low works fine. I thought the trans was pooped but after playing around with the truck I found if I put it in drive, and hold the selector 'up' it works fine. What is happening is the engine is twisting and torquing the trans and causing the manual valve to be shifted half in 1st and half in second if that makes any sense.
Could worn motor mounts and front springs be making this worse? when I rev the engine the whole truck tends to twist to the right, anybody ever have such a weird problem?
Could worn motor mounts and front springs be making this worse? when I rev the engine the whole truck tends to twist to the right, anybody ever have such a weird problem?
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From: Saratoga, NY
Nah thats not it, I just got done with a trans rebuild and the spring is ok. What the problem is believe it or not is extremely worn springs and shocks in the front, and is causing the whole truck to twist. When I get a few bucks and some time I'll replace this stuff.
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Well the linkage is worn out but thats not the problem, what happens is the whole drivetrain is twisting, the selector stays stationary which causes the trans detent to shift half way between D and 2. After the rebuild it works a bit better but not much, if you rev the engine you can see the whole truck rock to one side, and I have checked the motor mounts they are ok. The front springs and shocks are junk and I believe this to be the problem, if not it's getting a floor shifter!
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yeah but wouldn't the engine move if a mount was busted, cause it don't, the trans mount is ok.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
I don't know half what some of these other guys know but, it still sounds like a mount to me. There's other things that would cause it I'm sure. Have you checked the bearings inside the shift column? There's one or two inside the plastic at the bottom, just above where the inside inner rod bolts to the outside, under the hood. I would check the rubber grommets in/on the the levers and also check for general integrity, ie. cab mounts, bed mounts. I have experience very hard to find broken mounts, you really got to torque the you know what out of them to make sure.
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Chris, You seem to know what the problem is, and I'm wondering why you are posting here. You posted you just rebuilt the tranny. The linkage was moved with the reinstall but might need to be adjusted again.
You need to adjust it at the tranny arm/shift lever, to realeign the column selector.
John
You need to adjust it at the tranny arm/shift lever, to realeign the column selector.
John
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From: Saratoga, NY
Yeah good question, and been there done that. Nobody seems to be able to visualize what's going on, just give me a megashifter and I would be happy.
Last edited by Phinxter; Sep 4, 2004 at 09:21 AM.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
I've been under my truck for nearly a week, in and out of the bottom of my C6. Just for grins, I loosened the 5/16ths nut that holds the detent and bam, nothing will stay in place like it's supposed to.
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I found a way around this problem sort of for now, from a stop ease on the gas and once it gets to about 10 mph floor it and it stays put in 1st. I also re-readjusted the intermediate band the right way and it shifts into 2nd much firmer, but thats another story.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
With the pan off, from the drivers side, look up between the valve body and the tranny case. You should see the manual rod that connects your selector lever to the internal lever on the valve and goes back to the rear to engage park. Just above the manual rod is a small bolt that holds the detent spring. One end of the spring goes into a small hole (when tightened) and the other goes up front on top of the detent and it has a roller on top. The detent or we could call it the internal selector is held in place by the roller and the roller gets its pressure to do this from the spring. First two times I took out the valve body, last two (so far) I didn't take it out.
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Thanks for the info, but I rebuilt this tranny and been there done that. As a matter of fact I completely disassembled and cleaned the VB, and upon reassy, stripped out 2 holes using a torque wrench and had to order a $32 helicoil kit to fix it. I did notice you can get the detent roller cocked off center of the teeth if you arent paying attention.
Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: Southern IL
If you look at the end closest to the bolt you'll see that it has to sit in a small hole, and it won't go right into it, it goes as you tighten the bolt. It has spring metal in it and puts the tension on the detent, and if the bolt is tight with the rear end in the small hole, the detent should be right.
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