Ignition & exterior lighting problems
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Ignition & exterior lighting problems
Hey all,
'73 F250 w/360 My key turns, but nothing happens. I put in a new solenoid, coil, wires, plugs, distributor (and dist. guts), and an ignitions switch. Nothing has solved the problem. The only way to start it is to run a hot wire directly from the batter to the coil then jumping the solenoid. Obviously this is bad for it, but what else should I check? I am so horrible at wiring and electricity...
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Abrams
'73 F250 w/360 My key turns, but nothing happens. I put in a new solenoid, coil, wires, plugs, distributor (and dist. guts), and an ignitions switch. Nothing has solved the problem. The only way to start it is to run a hot wire directly from the batter to the coil then jumping the solenoid. Obviously this is bad for it, but what else should I check? I am so horrible at wiring and electricity...
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Abrams
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
There is a fusable link in the smaller wires on the battery side of the solinoid. Check to see that the link has power on both sides of it. When the fusable link burns out, you have no power at all. Replace the link and all will be good - be sure to solder any splices...
Marty
Marty
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
I will check those links. If they were burnt, would I still be able to start it off the solenoid like I have been? Two more questions- 1) Will the links be noticeably burned or seperated and 2) Are they near the solenoid or farther along in the wiring?
Thanks again for the help,
Abrams
Thanks again for the help,
Abrams
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
Yes, if it was burned, you could run it like you are.
1) They will not appear burned, the wire will be melted apart inside the insulation. Use a test light and check for power on both ends of the fuse link.
2) They are about 3" from the solinoid. My '73 has two small wires on the solinoid with the Batt +. One small wire has a square that reads 'fusable linkage', that section of wire (about 2") is the fusable link.
Marty
1) They will not appear burned, the wire will be melted apart inside the insulation. Use a test light and check for power on both ends of the fuse link.
2) They are about 3" from the solinoid. My '73 has two small wires on the solinoid with the Batt +. One small wire has a square that reads 'fusable linkage', that section of wire (about 2") is the fusable link.
Marty
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Central Illinois
Actually the headlights should come on anytime. It seems you have a major power loss somewhere. Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight. Check from the battery to the solenoid, check your fuse panel to make sure you have voltage there. It's some places to start. Good Luck
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
OK,
I am going tonight to try and fix the fusible links and see if I can get the old beast fired up correctly. I do have a concern about the voltage regulator though... it seems to click, is it supposed to do that? Also, to the left of the solenoid (towards the front of the truck) is a little three prong connector that attaches both to the solenoid and the wiring harness coming off the solenoid. What would that thing be?
Thanks again for all the help,
Abrams
I am going tonight to try and fix the fusible links and see if I can get the old beast fired up correctly. I do have a concern about the voltage regulator though... it seems to click, is it supposed to do that? Also, to the left of the solenoid (towards the front of the truck) is a little three prong connector that attaches both to the solenoid and the wiring harness coming off the solenoid. What would that thing be?
Thanks again for all the help,
Abrams
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
The voltage regulators click, they have manual points that move and you feel a click.
The 3 prong connector is for the horn relay, a silver 1" square box that is screwed to the inner fender next to the solinoid.
Let us know what you find with the fusable links.
Marty
The 3 prong connector is for the horn relay, a silver 1" square box that is screwed to the inner fender next to the solinoid.
Let us know what you find with the fusable links.
Marty
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
I Got Her fixed
Well, it was one of the fusible links. I pulled on it and it seemed to stretch a little... so I cut it open right there and sure enough, the wire ends were melted away. She runs like a champion now. I got the truck from my Grandpa and he bought it new in '73. It has 94000 miles on it. Now, I just have to get the crap to keep coming out of the gas tank and clogging my filters, stop the float from sticking in my carb and figure out a way to stop the slight oil leak from where the intake manifold, heads and block all come together. (New head gaskets I suppose?)
Thanks for all the help.
-Abrams
Thanks for all the help.
-Abrams
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NICKIH
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jun 3, 2010 12:33 PM
projectbad78
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Jul 1, 2008 08:20 PM