I blew my 98 v10. I found a 2000 at a good price. Are there any significant differences. I know that the oil pan is different between the van and pu. I notice that when i search car-parts.com for a 2000 motor they talk about a n egr and nonegr motor. When I search for 98 they do not mention egr. Any help on engine interchangeability is greatly appriciated.
john.

 

Hmmm...

Off the bat differences...

Heads.
Intake manifold.
Exhaust plumbing.
Computer code (obviously)

EGR to non-EGR no big deal.

Get a non-EGR engine if you live in a state where they don't tailpipe sniff yearly.

 

The question is what do I have to do to take a 2000 f250 v10 and put it into a 1998 e350? The 2000 engine does not come with a computer. Will my computer run on the new motor? Can I strip the two down and put the fuel injection, computer and intake manifold on mine? And yea, I guess I need to worry about getting it smogged in the future. Although it is registered in AL now, if I was to sell it to someone in CA, they would have to pass smog.

Sorry for the dumb questions but I am an old guy that is used to swapping GM 350s with carburetors and dont know much about modern engines. The shop that has my truck only knows what the manuals tell them and the manuals tell them that a 2000 is not compatible with a 1998.

There is a difference of 2000.00 plus a wait for the backorder engine to arrive. If there is a good post that describes what Ford did in 2000 to the v10 it might help me. I can read and make decisions but I cant find anything to read. Any books????

Thanks for the patients with an old fart.
john.

 

It's pretty unusual for a motor to come without the computer. I'm pretty sure the 98 ECU won't work with the higher hp 2000 engine. The IP (improved performance) engines were quite different for the block on up. You will need the newer engines wiring harness and computer. Painless performance makes alot of wiring harness for a lot of vehicles if worse comes to worse then can make one for your application. But your new engine without it's computer is incomplete, that should come with it. Maybe you'll have to pull a harness out of a 2000+ van to get your newer motor to work. Good luck, Ken

 

On newer motors you usualy can get the entire harness and CPU just ask for it. We used to do motor swaps from new Camero's to older ones to get the FI and we always got all wires sensors and CPU.

 

Since I got nagged by the site for not sharing, I will update my rv journey. First it has been down since June and I am in no hurry. When I had it towed to a truck repair place the only option they had was to put in a rebuilt early v10 from Ford. I was ready to do that but as fate would have it, they were totally out of stock. The more I thought about a rebuilt motor hauling my grandson and me around the country, the more hesitant I got. I was even thinking about donating it and buying another rv. When tghe storage place accross the street said I could work on it if I didn't make a mess so I had it towed there and started the job after my grandson returned home for the fall semester. Since I have all the tools and my last engine teardown was in 1982, I figured it would add color to my retirement

I pulled a head off and found a blown head-gasket; the plenumn was half full of coolant and the oil drained 2 parts coolant to 1 part oil. At the same time a place was selling a brand new 2002 engine one ebay. I went for it. Cost me 3500 delivered to the local trucking depot. So I am going for it. I am an old fart that is used to Quadrajets and 350s and the workings of the ecu are new to me. I am now searching the web for more information on engine computer management systems. By the end of next week I should have the engine in. I don't know how long before I get the ecu straightend out. If guys are installing 10s in hot rods and getting them to run, I should be able to get it going after a fashion.

The biggest thing I have noticed so far is that this motor does not have an egr on it so there will be a missing ecu input.

Any web site pointing to schematics of ECM/ECU would be apprieciated. I will also update this site as I move down the road. It will not be fast, I expect it to be spring before I am done.

Thanks John

 

Just a thought, but if you use the engine you bought as a replacement long block (or short block if needed) and transfer all the intake, throttle body, oil pan, etc... from your old engine you should be ok. The computer should adapt to minor changes in the heads and cams (if they are even that much different). That should also take care of your missing egr problem.

 

Don't say that, many states seem to do a visual check for things like the EGR - ain't got one? you fail - whether or not the sniffer is used, or if it still passes the sniffer without it.

NY was supposed to check for this stuff, but I never found one who cared if my Triumph TR7 still had an EGR, air injection or a cat, if it passed the idle sniffer.

But again, some states do a visual check without sniffing

 

I think the new v10 is egr-less. If anyone has a 2002-2004 v10, could you check and see if you have an egr? On the 98 it was easy to see because it was a pipe coming up from the drivers side exhaust manifold and going to the throtle body. When I look for parts for the 2000-2004 310 hp motor they list both types. Worst case is that I have to take the egr system of my old motor (exhaust manifold, pipe, throttle body and a couple of lines). It may not be that big a deal if I have to take off the intake manifold to install the motor. Ford say you do but I am going try and stuff it will just the throtle body removed. If I have to put on the old parts that have the egr I probably dont need to replace the computer. I am not sure that anyone could tell the difference and if I had the correct computer, there wont be a check engine light. Most places wont pass a vehicle if it has a check engine light.

Today I am fighting a stripped nut on the torque convert. I had to go to Sears and get one of their nut-removal kits. I didn't have a 6-point 14 mm and the 12 point slipped. Those soft single use nuts wont take much abuse. Since I had the engine partially torn down, I had to take the other cam off so I could turn the engine and remove the nuts. I am pretty sure that I could have pulled the motor with the TC bolted but I followed the manual. The good news is that Ford has a rubber plug covered access port accross from the starter. If I would have seen that first I would not have mangled the nut. With a good socket it will bind against the top of the hole and you dont have to hold the flex plate. Good job Ford.

Anyway thanks for all the info. I will try and keep posting lessons learned.
john.