99 vs 2000 V10
You might or might not have PCM connection and PCM coding issues...
By connection issues, I am thinking some of the sensors might NOT be in the exact same location or my be different...I do not remember exactly... but they use to take water temp from a sender in early motors and then changed to a (CHT) Cylinder Head Temp sender in a different location.... if you are aware of the difference it would not be hard to adapt for it...but could be a night mare for a mechanic that is not electricaly savvy
There will be zero reasons the 99 will not "bolt" into the 2000 chassis
You probably will only have electrical connection issues
I think if it all hooks up correctly the program in the 2000 PCM should be close enough for the 99 to run properly but will probably not be the "optimum program".... I doubt you could convince a ford tech to reflash the PCM "BACK" to a 99 MY "code"
If she did not run well and had severe Driveability issues, I would try to find a 99 MY PCM for cheap and try it
One other significant issue I can think of that may or may not screw you up is the ABS circuitry....
Early trucks had only 2 wheel ABS and in 2000 or 2001 they went to 4 wheel ABS
This impacts the ABS computer and the speed sensor...(Speed sensor on the rear diff sends the signal to the ABS computer FIRST for ALL 4 wheel ABS systems) The speed signal is one of the important ways the PCM controls the motor AND an 4R100 auto trany and then the speedometer on the dash cluster....
What I am saying here is it is hard to predict what problems there will be swapping between model years because these computer controlled power-trains have a whole host of interconnection relationships....
In theory any 99 to 2004 motor "Should" work in any combination.... they mechanically are identical except some subtle internal changes...electrically compatible is it's own set of grief or issues
If you do swap in a 99--- report back on the differences you find so we can expand our knowledge on this
I assure you that a factory rebuild is NOT that expensive and should be your first consideration... many folks go this route because most "local rebuilders" charge abouth the same to pull your and rebuild it then just getting a bolt in motor costs... Before going this route see if your local rebuilder can refurb yours cheaper BEFORE it blows...
Most of the time these motors in the 150-180 thousand mile range only need the top end- cams, cam drive, and valve train- rebuilt... most of the time when a motor is torn down at this age the bottem end is still within specs for all the rotating parts clearences






