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Anyone know the procedure for replacing the lower ball joints on a 96 explorer AWD? I have the drivers side loose but can't get it past thecontrol arm. Looks like I'll need to remove the spindle nut. Is this right?
If I remember right, the spindle nut is in the way and has to be removed. I'd get a manual if I were you just so you don't miss anything. I tried to replace a wheel bearing on my 92 and found out the hard way that there are parts held on by keys and cannot be removed by brute force without causing damage!!
According to my Hayes Manual the balljoints for 1995 and later models can't be removed or serviced. It says the control arms must be replaced. It doesn't say anything about AWD.
However, Hayes may be wrong because I took my 95' exp. to the shop and had the lower(I think lower)replaced. It didn't look like I had a new control arm.
Now it looks like I'm going to have to get the upper balljoint replaced because the rubber boot has cracked open. I wonder if this is a weak spot for explorers.
Is there a tool i can rent to get the ball joint out of the lower control arm, Or does the whole arm have to come off and the joint pressed out? If you have any info on this i sure would apprechiate it... Thanks 1999 explorer xlt 4x4
Paul
yes you can rent a ball joint press , but you will need air tools to use it. and the best way to get at these is by removing the knuckle right off the truck.
how do i compress the tosion bars to get the control arm without killing my self? I made a puller here out of a piece of 3.0" tubing with a heavy heavy duty washer welded to it. I'm going to try to get these out without pulling the control arm. I also have gotton the forks for seperating ball joint, but these are probably not going to work because there is not enough room between the control arm lip and the ball joint o.d. to get them in there. Thanks
Paul
put a floor jack under the lower control arm , but not under the balljoint and the torsion bar will stay loaded, the upper ball joint will pop right off the knuckle.
Worked out great They needed a little heat to get them moving but once they started they came right out. Not too bad. I rented a ball joint press from autozone for free (100.00 deposit refunded with the return of the tool). I paid 80.00 for both lower ball joints the lowest qoute was 550.0 so i figure i just saved 470.00 & learned something in hte process... Nice... thanks guys
Paul
Worked out great They needed a little heat to get them moving but once they started they came right out. Not too bad. I rented a ball joint press from autozone for free (100.00 deposit refunded with the return of the tool). I paid 80.00 for both lower ball joints the lowest qoute was 550.0 so i figure i just saved 470.00 & learned something in hte process... Nice... thanks guys
Paul
I just read in the repair manual that you should not heat the ball joints or surounding steel as this will remove the temper and weaken the A-arm. Please be cautious with using heat. I found that the ball joint press works great if you tighten it and then tap the ball joint with a hammer lightly. Once you get the hang of it, you can do both at the same time and it slides right out.
I just completed one side and it is a reasonably easy task. Lift the front end and support with 2 jack stands on the cross member and then use the lift to support the A-arm just inside of the ball joint. You'll end up unloading the nearside jack stand slightly. This way you do not need to remove the torsion bar. The upper ball jt is held in with a pinch bolt(remove the whole bolt to remove the upper stud) and the lower is a typical stud. The caliper comes off with 2 bolts and the hub nut takes a little torque to remove but it will come off. It takes 200ft/lbs when you reinstall it. Get it snug in the air and then finish it up on the ground.
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