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I am looking into replacing my ball joints upper and lower, what is the procedure on doing such task. do I have to remove the the coil/strut? Please give me advice on how to go about, shops down here in miami are telling me $1200 in labor plus $400 in parts i have found them in different shops for about $218 out the door. Thanks for any advices
98 expedition 4x2 air suspention rear only 5.4L upper and lower Front neets to be done as well as idler arm was quoted $300 for parts from Auto zone now I need to know if need to pull the coils and struts off they were replaced about 20K ago
you should try to find a store that sells moog ball joints there about the best and greesable. (try car stuff.com) this is a rough idea -the lower ***** need to be pressed out if you dont have one dont try beating it out it aint gonna happen. If you dont have room to press them out you have to make room yes all thats got to come off thats why the labor coast is so high. the uppers came with controll arms and were easier if yours dont come with controll arms then those get pressed out also. Its definetly doable if you have the right tools and alot of patients. hope that helps you decide weather or not you want to do it your self.
I would agree with Navi in that Moog ball joints will be the best bet. I am doing the same project this weekend (minus the idler arm). If you are good with your hands you should be able to do this job. It is however a real PITA to do the first time you do it. You will need a ball joint press, a torque wrench, a spring compressor (all of which are available for loan with a deposit from autozone) and maybe a pickle fork to get the job done, along with the normal assortment of shop tools most people already have. One point of interest that should be stressed is that the lower ball joint needs to be pressed out and back in perfectly straight. The first time I did my lowers I pressed one ball joint in a little crooked and it stretched out the hole where the ball joint goes and I ended up having to replace the entire control arm. That was an additional $120 down the drain, not to mention the additional time it took to install it.
So I did it this weekend, no body around here had the MOOG so I went with the Motorcraft ***** they are also gressable, all you need is a good torque ranch a pickle fork, a few 13/16 socket JACK STAND, rope so you can tie off your break assembly to the side ( be very careful so you do no put stress on you break line or ABS Wires) Ball joint press, so you can remove the old and place the new one in. shade and right about 6 hrs of your day if you do not have a compressor like me. It took 190+ lbs of torque to get the lower ***** off. I don't know about you all but down here in Miami it has been rather hot so plenty of water or iced tea to rehydrate, please be safe no beers while working under the hood! if you have any question about the process please pm me.
As info, Balado at NW 27 Ave just north of the 836 offered to do mine (front, both sides, uppers and lowers) for $480 (parts and labor), which having done the work is not that bad. I ended up doing a bit more (all tie rods and lower bushings) so I saved the labor money and spent it on more parts.
But if you decide to have it done in Miami that is a good place to check.
So after all the ball joints and idler arm done I went to get the truck alignment done and I had to replace the Pittman Arm that thing is a b**** to do it, but for further reference recommend that you disconnect the ball joint before you start with the gear box side it makes it pop out a lot easier and to put it back in ball joint first and the arm go right into its grooving
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