Okay, I lurk on here a lot under different names but here's my question.

I know a 9" is a good rear-end. I swore by them until lately..now I'm swearing at it. My 79-ish ford, 351M, Np435, 38.5 Swampers Sxs. I had custom heavy wall driveshafts with heavier spline sections and 1350 u-joints throughout built (for future big horsepower/torque) and 4340 warn axles in the D44 front.

I had a complete 9" center section from Randy's with big bearing pinion support, 1350 yoke, detroit locker and 5.13s...with yukon axles. They told me that it was 500hp capable...maybe so...but something has to give.

My bearing supports deflected on a hill climb and blew apart the 9" case and sent shards of teeth through the rear pumpkin. The bolt broke off on one cap and left half the bearing cap there and on the other the case broke off. NO it wasn't a nodular iron case.

My question is... would it be strong enough if I used the Nodular case? What about the fact that the bolt sheared off on one side? I have pics if anyone wants to see it. I'll find the link later after work... somewhere on www.nova4x4.com/forum website.

What if I truss the back right away and build a plate on the back of heavy steel that I can drill holes though and thread them. Then run a bolt right through the case to the back of the bearing caps to support them like they do with 10 bolts. Any comments or suggestions...

No I don't want to run a D70 or the 14 bolt as I would have to change my wheels and front axle or change the bolt pattern. Plus, its not as easy to get parts...and I'd have to change the 14 bolt to discs because its so expensive to get drums for. And I'd lose valuable ground clearance. Besides...isn't the 9" the ultimate simple axle?

Would love to hear some ford guy input...oh yea... I've got a built 460/automatic on the way and I'm going back to 4:10s.

 

http://www.nova4x4.com/forum/topic.a...age=1&ARCHIVE=

 

The 9" is great for street use. lots of HP, big tires and offroad don't mix well with it. If ya watch the throttle it can be done. really 35" tires are max.

You'd come out alot cheaper in the end by adding a Sterlin 10.25, D70 or 14 bolt. Just shave em to gain clearance.

 

The N case is capable of holding much more than the stock one, yours blew apart just like many other stock chunks have, get an N case or go all out and get a case from strange. IMO The 9" is a tough axle.

 

IMHO the Dana 60 would probably do a better job for you. Certainly, the Sterling (beefed up) and the Dana 70 would be better, but I think 9 inchers are for street, even with the nodular case. Price might be the best determining factor for which HD axle you choose. The cast iron cases of the Dana axles are hard to beat and I think better for wheeling that the steel 9 inchers.

 

Dana owns offroading. Simple as that.

9-inch is good for buffed up Mustangs..but if you're serious on the off roading then you'll need to go bigger.

 

I hear guys on hear talking about how great D60s are, and personally a 9in is every bit as tough, I have seen D60s tear up ring gears left, and right that is why they make the cover plates with the built in girdle the cases deflect something terrible, if they were that much better than a 9in then nascar, and nhra racers would be using them but they don't also look under alot of the trucks in pikes peak, baja 500 etc amazing 9in fords everywhere.
Now onto your problem first off I would bet that the bolt broke first probably an origanal bolt that was stressed from bieng over torqued at one time or another, this is something I have seen in every type of rearend ever built, and sounds like what happened to yours. next you said it wasn't nodular ok but did it have WAR stamped anywhere on it if so that is one of the brittlest 9in chunks ever built. for strength get a N case or as fordper300 said a strange nodular case, I am running an N case with a spool, and 35in boggers running low range 4500stall, and a transbrake behind a 570hp engine, and it ain't broke yet
BTw have seen D60s shear pinions behind stock 460s

 

It is as simple as the 38 inch boggers on an axle tube that is 2.75 inches wide (not counting where it necks down at the drum backing plate) with deflection under a huge load. If you jack up the 9 inch on the pumpkin with 33s you can see the axle deflect. I bet with 38s, if you jack your truck up on the pumpkin your axle will deflect at least 1".

You get a 200 pound tire and do the same thing while the wheel is spinning or hit traction while the wheel is spinning, and the 9 is going to rip apart. It is a super strong axle on-road and a good axle off-road, it is not the best.

I love my Ford 9 inch, but, I do not run 38s on it off-road. You can buy a N third member (if you can find it), it will not stop the axle from flexing off-road. If you are set on keeping the 9 inch, then truss it from the top with weld on rod/tube and plate and make it full floating. I would probably go with 3" or 4" tubing, 5/16 wall, and DOM. You can usually find it advertised in race car magazines. That is what I would do if I wanted to keep the 9 inch.

What I would do if I was running 38s is just get the Dana 60/70/80 from an ambulance or tow truck, do some slight mods and put new ring gear and cap bolts bolts in it, and call it good.

There is a reason for 1/2 ton rear ends and 1 ton rear ends. The 1 tons cost more because they weigh more, they weigh more because everything is bigger and stronger and the axles are designed to carry more weight on the axle tubes. They are designed not to deflect under load.

 

A 9" will hold you just have to build them.I run 38.5 Swamper's on my Bronco with a 400 plus horsepower motor and mine lives happily.I have a Strange supercase with a Daytona pinion support and a Strange 1350 yoke.With my stock cases I kept breaking out the pilot bearing area in the cases.I have yet to have any problem's with my current setup.

 

I'd just put a 60 or 70 under it & be done with it. A 9 " will always be on the ragged edge in your truck no matter how much money you throw at it.

 

I have broken more front axle shafts and rear drive shafts with my old 460 set up in a my old bronco with a 4-speed and auto, but I never broke a 9 inch rear axle. I even snapped a few t-case yokes off before. Sure a 60 or 70 is better but the 9 is way better than an 8.8.

 

Ok lads, if you want to play with a 9 inch, take out wallet, remove cash and go to

http://www.currieenterprises.com/htm...sheavyduty.htm

 

why beef up a Sterlin? already 35 spline axles. plenty strong. Wieght your cost on which ya want and go the cheapist way. You can have the asterlin under your truck for less then 1/2 the price to beef the 9". Like i said before the sterlin 10.25, D70 or 14 bolt best bang for the Buck. as for the D60 rear it's not worth the time to swap in place of the 9". If ya look at the s0pecs over the 9" and D60 you'll see there bout the same rearend. just one has 8-lugs. IMO.

Ya got lots of info to chose from. good-luck which ever way ya go.

 

Thanks guys,

Useful replies...of course not what I wanted to hear. The general conensus is its time to go bigger.